Razor One,
That looks pretty sharp! keep up the good work, i'm kicking around the same idea!
Cheers!
Dan
That looks pretty sharp! keep up the good work, i'm kicking around the same idea!
Cheers!
Dan
Razor One's Armor Build Thread
- Thread starter Razor One
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #22
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- #23
Doing a little welding practice. I'll start building tomorrow.
- Thread starter
- #25
They're 6010's, but I'll check 'em out.
Edit: I'm not sure I can properly store 7018's. I read they need to be stored above 250 degrees? Also, that 6010's are better for tacking metal together. Any thoughts?
Edit: I'm not sure I can properly store 7018's. I read they need to be stored above 250 degrees? Also, that 6010's are better for tacking metal together. Any thoughts?
Last edited:
- Joined
- Jun 21, 2011
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- 21,799
- Location
- Redding, California
- Website
- trail-tailor.com
6010 is a good tack.."root" rod... about it.. I'm with PH, if you are going to stick weld these bumper(s) use the 7018.
7018- Low Hydrogen rods don't like moisture.. As long as you keep the rods dry they will be fine for your application IMO.. Your local welding supply should have plastic rod caddies that have an o-ring in them.. probably around 10-20$ Some guys put them in vacuum bags for storage..
250F is the mfg recommendation and it is strictly enforced in our code vessel/piping, structural steel world, but we are dealing with critical engineered high pressure, fluid retaining aspects, temps, stress loads and flex aspects that are then inspected by x-ray, ultrasonic testing and air/hydrotesting... You'll be fine using them as long as they are kept DRY.
J
7018- Low Hydrogen rods don't like moisture.. As long as you keep the rods dry they will be fine for your application IMO.. Your local welding supply should have plastic rod caddies that have an o-ring in them.. probably around 10-20$ Some guys put them in vacuum bags for storage..
250F is the mfg recommendation and it is strictly enforced in our code vessel/piping, structural steel world, but we are dealing with critical engineered high pressure, fluid retaining aspects, temps, stress loads and flex aspects that are then inspected by x-ray, ultrasonic testing and air/hydrotesting... You'll be fine using them as long as they are kept DRY.
J
Most of the premium rod manufactures make a "moisture resistant" 7018 rod, like Lincoln, Hobart and ESAB. They have an R or MR suffix. They would still need to be stored properly for a low hydrogen weld, but they won't go bad as fast in a high humidity environment like Houston. Making a bumper isn't going to require a low hydrogen weld.
6010 will be fine and you have a good hand for it, but it will take more work to finish the beads for a nice cosmetic appearance. That won't matter where it doesn't show.
6010 will be fine and you have a good hand for it, but it will take more work to finish the beads for a nice cosmetic appearance. That won't matter where it doesn't show.
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- #28
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- #29
Update!
Bumper reinforcement done. Plates will be welded so that the bumper slides on to the frame rails and bolts into place.
I was advised that once this bumper is completed, I will be able to jack the entire front end up using the bumper.
EDIT: Any thoughts on where to relocate the airbag sensor?
Bumper reinforcement done. Plates will be welded so that the bumper slides on to the frame rails and bolts into place.
I was advised that once this bumper is completed, I will be able to jack the entire front end up using the bumper.
EDIT: Any thoughts on where to relocate the airbag sensor?
- Thread starter
- #30
Done for the night. I should be able to have the center portion welded, and bolted up ready to go by Monday. It won't be done, but at least I'll have something to put on the front and offer some protection until I can finish the wings. I still have to order the fogs and winch. Somebody recommend me some durable round fog lights.
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- #31
Got a few beads going today, because I couldn't stand the gaping hole in the middle.
There was a slight gap in between the lowest two center plates, so I filled it with a steel rod and did a bead on each side. How does this look? It's my first time, so I don't know what to compare it to.
There was a slight gap in between the lowest two center plates, so I filled it with a steel rod and did a bead on each side. How does this look? It's my first time, so I don't know what to compare it to.
- Thread starter
- #33
So far, I've only used 6010, and I'm looping it. My neighbor was over last night with me while I was welding this up and he suggests I let the welds show so everybody can see my mad welding skills.
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- #35
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- #36
I guess I could always grind it down later if I decide I don't like the look. I got a huge oxy bottle today, and I'll be getting a cutting torch soon. Up to this point, every piece I've cut out has been with a sawzall. I'm going through blades like crazy, and my forearms are noticeably stronger.
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- #37
I've cut out almost everything, and i have a plan for how I'm going to weld everything up so it's even. After I get home at around noon I'll start working on it and I should have a bare-metal, finished product by the end of the night tomorrow.
In other news, discount tire is going to see if they can special order me a set of 345/75/16's, and I'm calling Slee in the morning to get my OME Heavy lift ordered. In a month, I should be rolling on 35's or 36's with new wheels and a new front bumper. Maybe I should start a build thread...
EDIT: I just saw that I haven't uploaded a picture since I welded the center portion, so here's what it looks like so far:
In other news, discount tire is going to see if they can special order me a set of 345/75/16's, and I'm calling Slee in the morning to get my OME Heavy lift ordered. In a month, I should be rolling on 35's or 36's with new wheels and a new front bumper. Maybe I should start a build thread...
EDIT: I just saw that I haven't uploaded a picture since I welded the center portion, so here's what it looks like so far:
- Thread starter
- #38
UPDATE
Got my cutting torch set up! Check it. It cuts through 3/8" like butter.
I took an inch off the top of the bumper with the torch so it would match the grill lines and clear the blinkers.
Done.
And more progress.
And of course I'm going all out! Thanks @jcardona1 for the bottle opener idea.
Got my cutting torch set up! Check it. It cuts through 3/8" like butter.
I took an inch off the top of the bumper with the torch so it would match the grill lines and clear the blinkers.
Done.
And more progress.
And of course I'm going all out! Thanks @jcardona1 for the bottle opener idea.
Nice! No offroad bumper is complete without a bottle opener 
- Thread starter
- #40
Nice! No offroad bumper is complete without a bottle opener
Just gotta make the grill guard, get a winch, some fogs, sand blast it, and bed-line it.
