Rain Gutter Rust... (1 Viewer)

[jswbutcher]

Hello all...

I'm new to this forum but have been following in for some time now and really like what I see.

I bought my first Cruiser over a year ago now. It's an 85 FJ60 that's in real good over all shape. The only problem is that the P.O. had some Yakima racks on it and he didn't tighten them down enough so they rattled and rubbed in the wind to the point where that paint had worn off. He let it go and now the rain gutter on the driver's side is full of rust. All the way thru in one place. My question is how do I go about attacking it in the right way? I'd love to avoid taking in to the body shop for cash flow reasons. I'd like to hear from some of you experts out there on any thoughts of how I can get rid of it and not have it come back. An thoughts of what products I should use?

Thanks for any info.

 

[bad_religion_au]

i used fiberglass bodyfiller just to pass inspections, but wouldn't recommend it for permanent work, there was a post a few days ago on someone shaping a different piece of steel in there.

http://69.61.14.149/forum/index.php?board=1;action=display;threadid=4285;start=msg32016#msg32016

try that link

 

[archie]

I would try to clean up(use navel jelly) as much rust and corroded steel around the rusted section and paint it for now. Next I would try to form a strong and deep steel channel to either glue or silicone into the rusted section and maybe reinforce it with screws. The steel channel will provide support for any roof rack system. The silicone caulking will prevent further water from entering and will prevent the steel channel from scratching the good paint(if left to dry before adding on the screws or use the just pressure of the clamps of racks to keep it on).Just make sure the silicone is harder and the steel channel is not touching the paint.The silicone is also easy to remove when you really want to fully restore the truck. The main objective of this suggestion is to stop rust development without the expensive body work.HTH. good luck.

 

[archie]

BTW, I slop on silicone on the bottom of delicate tools that I always drop to keep them from too much damage. (EX. cordless drill.) The are great shock absorbers(less damaged drills and ceramic tiles) and are equally great if on equipment to keep them from slipping from angled surfaces(ex. roofing). The only problem is that you gotta apply it a day before because it has to dry and it kinda looks funny.

 

[jswbutcher]

Thanks guys. The hole that I was talking about is actually through the roof. What would you say the best body filler is to use if I can't cut in out and use metal?

Thanks-
-JSWB

 

[fsusteve]

Definitely hit it with a rust inhibitor, ospho or naval jelly, but something. Patch panels aren't that pricey if it's small enough. You do the primer and paint and you'll save some major bucks. Don't short cut it, it'll suck and you'll regret it every day you see it.

 

[jswbutcher]

Thanks-

Now I just need to find someone with a welder...

 

[toddslater]

Cut out the rust and weld new metal in..float it out with USC Duraglass in the first coat then follow/final float with Feather lite bondo. Anything short of putting new metal in will come back to haunt you early and often. My .02 and if your near Philly...have mig.