What's up guys!
Okay, so I've got a new problem related to an older radio / cig / clock circuit problem that I posted about a little while ago.
1986 Toyota pickup, 4x4, 22re, 5 speed.
So basically, this is what happens: I will be sitting at a redlight / stopsign, and if i'm not carefully slow taking off from a standstill, will result in the volt meter surging low, and causing the radio / cig / clock circuit to pop the fuse (I know this is BAD, but I have even went as far as putting 40a fuses in the radio spot...and it still eventually pops it!!) It appears that the fuse popping is related to the amount of torque / power applied during take off?!? :mad2: NO OTHER circuit is affected, and once the fuse is popped, the surging of the volt meter no longer happens.
This is what I have recently done to solve other volt / amperage issues, with no resolve of the radio problem:
-new reman'd duralast 120a jaguar alternator, 2ga wire directly to battery; 4 ga ground wire attached to through bolt in alternator to body
-Deka 31M AGM heavy duty deep cycle marine / RV battery....for those looking for the best battery, this is one of the baddest batteries you can put in a truck; with 800/1000 cca's, 200 reserve capacity and 20 AH rating of 105, it doubles the best optima has to offer!! :bowdown: http://www.dekabatteries.com/assets/base/1741.pdf
(OH, and they are all made in the states...which is NOT the case for Optima anymore
)
Grounding solutions: I have checked the 4 primary grounding locations for the motor / battery, and regrounded the battery to the frame at the frame-side of the motor mount bolt with 2ga primary wire, and the block has been reground to the frame (at the same spot as the battery ground) with 4ga wire; the head is ground to the firewall with 4ga wire to the rear engine hoist location; the alternator utilizes factory ground in harness, plus additional ground spoken about earlier.
Pulled the fuse block in the driver's kick panel, and checked the ground for the fuse block...appears intact and good at the radio fuse, no corroded, blackened or frayed wiring; also good at the body ground bolt.
Sorry for writing so much, just wanted to paint a picture for yall. So once again, to the electrical wizards of MUD, do you have any possible solutions to this problem that I am having?? Please help!!
Okay, so I've got a new problem related to an older radio / cig / clock circuit problem that I posted about a little while ago.
1986 Toyota pickup, 4x4, 22re, 5 speed.
So basically, this is what happens: I will be sitting at a redlight / stopsign, and if i'm not carefully slow taking off from a standstill, will result in the volt meter surging low, and causing the radio / cig / clock circuit to pop the fuse (I know this is BAD, but I have even went as far as putting 40a fuses in the radio spot...and it still eventually pops it!!) It appears that the fuse popping is related to the amount of torque / power applied during take off?!? :mad2: NO OTHER circuit is affected, and once the fuse is popped, the surging of the volt meter no longer happens.
This is what I have recently done to solve other volt / amperage issues, with no resolve of the radio problem:
-new reman'd duralast 120a jaguar alternator, 2ga wire directly to battery; 4 ga ground wire attached to through bolt in alternator to body
-Deka 31M AGM heavy duty deep cycle marine / RV battery....for those looking for the best battery, this is one of the baddest batteries you can put in a truck; with 800/1000 cca's, 200 reserve capacity and 20 AH rating of 105, it doubles the best optima has to offer!! :bowdown: http://www.dekabatteries.com/assets/base/1741.pdf
(OH, and they are all made in the states...which is NOT the case for Optima anymore
)Grounding solutions: I have checked the 4 primary grounding locations for the motor / battery, and regrounded the battery to the frame at the frame-side of the motor mount bolt with 2ga primary wire, and the block has been reground to the frame (at the same spot as the battery ground) with 4ga wire; the head is ground to the firewall with 4ga wire to the rear engine hoist location; the alternator utilizes factory ground in harness, plus additional ground spoken about earlier.
Pulled the fuse block in the driver's kick panel, and checked the ground for the fuse block...appears intact and good at the radio fuse, no corroded, blackened or frayed wiring; also good at the body ground bolt.
Sorry for writing so much, just wanted to paint a picture for yall. So once again, to the electrical wizards of MUD, do you have any possible solutions to this problem that I am having?? Please help!!
