Radiator servicing. (1 Viewer)

[highkick05]

I am going to change my bottom radiator hose, this will mean emptying the fluid of course.

I am thinking about changing the Heater T's and hoses while I am there.

Is there anything else I should do while I've got the radiator empty? Possibly a clean with something etc ?

 

[biggulps]

I am going to change my bottom radiator hose, this will mean emptying the fluid of course.

I am thinking about changing the Heater T's and hoses while I am there.

Is there anything else I should do while I've got the radiator empty? Possibly a clean with something etc ?

have you changed the heater T’s yet? If not, then yes for sure add that into the job.
TOYOTA techs that I have talked to say that Toyota coolant is a “lifetime” fluid. I think as for the flush, a cleaning fluid is probably unnecessary. Running a hose through it should get most of the particles out

 

[AlpineAccess]

It sounds like that tech drank the Toyota koolaid (or some coolant maybe)

Unfortunately, Toyota coolant isn't a lifetime fluid no matter how much Toyota might try to claim it to be. Toyota maintenance log on the 100 actually notes replacing it every 100k. There is nothing proprietary about Toyota's coolant vs any other silicate-free fluid. Being a fully sealed closed loop cooling system (and a very tight motor overall) the 2UZ can stretch fluid to 100k and be fine, but a Tech saying its a lifetime fluid on a motor proven to go 500k+ is irresponsible, particularly when Toyota's own owners manual indicates 100k.

That being said, the widest gap between flushes in my case has been 90k, as timing belt service (which typically also includes water pump replacement) is done every 90k. I remove the radiator to do my timing belts but not everyone does. With the Rad and WP out, over half of the fluid has drained - so its a low barrier to just grab the extra gallon of concentrate and go with fresh coolant.

Zerex Asian is a great alternative to Toyota fluid if you're looking for a good product that is compatible and has matching performance specs to Toyota's pink silicate-free. It can be found in concentrate gallons on Rock Auto, etc. and mixed with distilled water as concentrate is cheaper to start with than premixed.

If you open things up and there is GREEN or ORANGE coolant in there, drain it all, and fill your system with clean water (best if its distilled water) and run the system to flush it out. Drain the water and repeat until its clear. *There is nothing wrong with green or orange coolant being in there other than it isn't as compatible with the system as silicate free, but you need to know you CANNOT mix green or orange coolant with pink or red as it will gel and cause issues.

This happens often when folks have a loss of fluid on the road and the well intentioned auto parts store gives them green coolant without knowing any better. It can be saved by flushes, or one of those "pulsing flush machines" but no one likes to deal with that.

Back to your original question:

When replacing the hoses on the front radiator system because they are swelling or something, don't forget to also get the outlet hose which is kind of a pain to get to.

You can most easily check the weep hole on the water pump to see if any leaks are present.

*If you are close to a timing belt service, it might make sense to do this radiator service at the same time.

Lastly, Check the radiator for discoloration, cracking, swelling, etc.

And yes for the love of all that is holy don't let a $6 heater T take down a mighty 2UZ.

 

[JunkCrzr89]

TOYOTA techs that I have talked to say that Toyota coolant is a “lifetime” fluid

I’ll believe that when Pete Rose is allowed into the MLB Hall of Fame.

Is there anything else I should do while I've got the radiator empty? Possibly a clean with something etc ?

How old is your radiator? What color is the top of it? How many miles on your 100? When was the coolant last changed? When were your water pump and thermostat last replaced? At minimum, I’d replace both radiator hoses (and any clamps that you booger).

 

[highkick05]

I’ve just taken a closer look . Fzj105r looks way diff underneath. I’m seeing 2 lower radiator hoses which look absolutely discustingly old., and the heater Ts aren’t 3 way simply just a 2 way connectors. Will take pics in a bit

 

[highkick05]

I’ll believe that when Pete Rose is allowed into the MLB Hall of Fame.


How old is your radiator? What color is the top of it? How many miles on your 100? When was the coolant last changed? When were your water pump and thermostat last replaced? At minimum, I’d replace both radiator hoses (and any clamps that you booger).

I’m going to get all the parts I need first that’s why asking . 98 fzj105r 270,000 kms . Top radiator hose already changed from coolant seaping out. Will up pics , heater Ts r different , hoses also.
Also changing the PCV hose, valve and grommet. Went to test that yesterday it’s so hard it’s like metal- is it lol

 

[highkick05]

I’ll believe that when Pete Rose is allowed into the MLB Hall of Fame.


How old is your radiator? What color is the top of it? How many miles on your 100? When was the coolant last changed? When were your water pump and thermostat last replaced? At minimum, I’d replace both radiator hoses (and any clamps that you booger).

The radiator is in really good nic, I will blow a few dead bugs out. Not really much built up at the bottom. Fins inside an out look pretty good, minimal bent ones.
Any good radiator cleaner to push through it ?

 

[JunkCrzr89]

The radiator is in really good nic, I will blow a few dead bugs out. Not really much built up at the bottom. Fins inside an out look pretty good, minimal bent ones.
Any good radiator cleaner to push through it ?

Thermocure is the only thing I would use. It will clean out the block, too. Typically works best for rusty coolant systems. Otherwise, distilled water will be fine.

THERMOCURE Cooling System Rust Remover & Flush | CRC

THERMOCURE cooling system rust remover and flush removes rust scale and deposits from radiators, water pumps, engine blocks, and more.

evapo-rust.com

 

[highkick05]

Thermocure is the only thing I would use. It will clean out the block, too. Typically works best for rusty coolant systems. Otherwise, distilled water will be fine.

THERMOCURE Cooling System Rust Remover & Flush | CRC

THERMOCURE cooling system rust remover and flush removes rust scale and deposits from radiators, water pumps, engine blocks, and more.

evapo-rust.com

That looks pretty decent. Cheers

 

[JunkCrzr89]

That looks pretty decent. Cheers

Beware that after it runs through your cooling system for a bit, it will smell awful! But that means it worked.

 

[highkick05]

Beware that after it runs through your cooling system for a bit, it will smell awful! But that means it worked.

says its non corrosive, thats all I needed to know really. I imagine if there is anything bogged in a crevace it would potentially dissolve it. Cheers

 

[JunkCrzr89]

says its non corrosive, thats all I needed to know really. I imagine if there is anything bogged in a crevace it would potentially dissolve it. Cheers

Yep. My block was rusty as hell because the PO only used distilled water in the cooling system - no coolant. I ran the thermocure through for ~300 miles and it cleared a ton of junk out, dissolving it all into a smelly black fluid.

 

[medtro]

Zerex Asian is a great alternative to Toyota fluid if you're looking for a good product that is compatible and has matching performance specs to Toyota's pink silicate-free. It can be found in concentrate gallons on Rock Auto, etc. and mixed with distilled water as concentrate is cheaper to start with than premixed.

I am not able to find this. Do you have the part number for it?

 

[jerryb]

More Information for VALVOLINE 675130

10$ for 1 plush shipping. 18.12$ amazon for one, prime.

 

[medtro]

Thanks but that is 50/50. I am trying to look for the "concentrate gallons on Rock Auto" as mentioned above.

 

[highkick05]

Few pics/video.
I thought there was only ONE lower radiator hose, this is two here. They are both horrible look almost moulded condition.

The first hose from the radiator outlet has 2 clips on it. I can't see past the oil and grime, one looks to be hanging off the hose.
So the shop only lists 1 part for lower radiator hose. This is strange considering I need two.

Bolts were loose like this , just sitting there for ages like that.


PCV Valve, could get it off finally after I went for a drive and heated the tube up a bit. Would not budge when cold.
But how do you pop the pcv valve out ? Think I leave that , looks like the grommet needs to come out - and that will break.

 

[JunkCrzr89]

Looks like you have a total of 4 radiator hoses, including the upper hose.

Also, that double clamp on the lower hose going into the pipe indicates the hose was leaking in the past and someone added the worm-drive clamp to try to stop the leak. There’s only supposed to be 1 constant tension clamp at that location:

If it was my truck, I would replace every single radiator and coolant hose that exists, and probably buy all new constant tension clamps, too.

 

[highkick05]

Looks like you have a total of 4 radiator hoses, including the upper hose.

View attachment 2498372

Also, that double clamp on the lower hose going into the pipe indicates the hose was leaking in the past and someone added the worm-drive clamp to try to stop the leak. There’s only supposed to be 1 constant tension clamp at that location:

View attachment 2498373

If it was my truck, I would replace every single radiator and coolant hose that exists, and probably buy all new constant tension clamps, too.

Yeah worth it I rekn that lower area needs new everything. There is a minute oil leak just above that area. The top hose clamps were still strong as hell. Might replace bottom. Very surprised at the state of all that and the patch up job .

Any suggestions on the pcv valve and hose. That hose supposed to be rubber? It is that stiff and hard It feels legit like a metal hose when cold, baffled wat that is supposed to originally be like

 

[AlpineAccess]

I am not able to find this. Do you have the part number for it?

Looks like Rock Auto is either stocked out or Valvoline is no longer selling it in concentrate. My last order was from Walmart, but I've also gotten this from Rock Auto prior to them stopping shipping to most of Colorado. Here is the details on the concentrate:

Brand	Valvoline
Manufacturer Part Number	871668
Manufacturer	Valvoline
Model	Same As Above 871668

I hope they didn't go to this just to grab more margin, but it's likely that's what they are up to. Was nice to just ship what I needed and do $.50 distilled refill gallons at my local grocer.

 

[JunkCrzr89]

Yeah worth it I rekn that lower area needs new everything. There is a minute oil leak just above that area. The top hose clamps were still strong as hell. Might replace bottom. Very surprised at the state of all that and the patch up job .

Any suggestions on the pcv valve and hose. That hose supposed to be rubber? It is that stiff and hard It feels legit like a metal hose when cold, baffled wat that is supposed to originally be like

Yeah the PCV hose should be pliable rubber, typically with a foam protector sheath around it. Replace the hose, valve, and rubber grommet.