Radiator Replacement and Growing

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I am in the process of replacing my radiator on my '73. After I pulled it out, I started to dig into possible replacements and upgrades that I could/should do while I have the radiator out.

1. Replace Radiator Hoses
2. Change out the Metal Fan with Plastic
3. New Altenator Belt
4. Upgrade Starter
5. Clean and Paint Engine/Bay

Considering
1. New Altenator (No issues now but there is about 90k on the motor)?

Any other considerations or advice. It seems so wide open without the radiator.

Jerry
 

ceylonfj40nut

Waiting for Barn Time
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Water pump/ front main seal.
 

3_puppies

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thermostat and gaskets?
when doing the hoses, remember all the heater hoses also

I wouldn't worry about the alternator.
 
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Yes, this is definitely going down the rabbit hole of "where do I stop!"

Thanks for all the input. I will add the water pump, thermostat, and seals/gaskets to the list and take off the alternator.

How difficult is the front main seal to replace? Are any special tools needed?

Thanks again,
Jerry
 

77mustard40

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Just did this on my 77. Replaced the original water pump, hoses, thermostat and fan clutch. Also pulled the radiator mounting bracket and splash shield to clean them up with CLR and repaint before putting it all back together.
 
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Do you guys add a fan clutch to older models? If so, is this something a guy should look at?

The list keeps growing!

Jerry
 
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Since your coolant is drained this is an easy time to look at your heater hoses for cracks and replace if needed. Also the rear heater if you have one. Did you open up the block drain? It’s probably crudded up with sediment if it hasn’t been opened in a while. This is a good time to clean that out.
 
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Yes, this is definitely going down the rabbit hole of "where do I stop!"

Thanks for all the input. I will add the water pump, thermostat, and seals/gaskets to the list and take off the alternator.

How difficult is the front main seal to replace? Are any special tools needed?

Thanks again,
Jerry
Front Main seal requires removal of the timing cover. So the crank pulley must be pulled off. If the timing cover or FMS is leaking, now’s the time…. This one is a slippery slope however. If you discover that the leak is actually coming from behind the timing gear plate then mission creep just got a lot bigger!
 

3_puppies

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Do you guys add a fan clutch to older models? If so, is this something a guy should look at?

The list keeps growing!

Jerry

I don't know if there is a way to add a fan clutch to the older engines, for what the rig is the plastic fan uprgade is all that is needed.

myself, if the front seal isn't leaking, I wouldn't change it, there have been a few times of messing the timing cover up while installing the new seal.
 
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When I opened the drain block it was crudded up pretty bad. Took a while to break through. The old radiator had some previous damage (looks like the fan blade must have broken off at some point). I wonder if the PO dumped some radiator stop leak in there. Anyways I was thinking of running something through the block before installing the new radiator, water pump, and thermostat. Maybe use the pump system below to clean it out. Any suggestions on what to run through it (water, vinegar, muriatic acid)?

Thanks in advance,
Jerry

1658755811202.png
1658755852170.png
 

1911

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Any kind of weak acid will help get out deposited minerals from running tap water in the past. Acetic acid (vinegar) is very weak; if you use that, get the 7% acidity cleaning vinegar available at Wal-mart and elsewhere and run it straight (undiluted). If you use muriatic acid, be sure to dilute it to a safe level. Let your recirculating system run with the weak acid solution for many hours for best effect.
 

1911

chupacabra
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Using muriatic acid, do I have to worry about the seals?

Jerry

There are no seals per se in the cooling system, except the rubber donut on top of the thermostat. Other than that, just the gaskets for the water pump and the base of the thermostat. Weak acid won't hurt the hoses, connections, radiator, or freeze plugs. The idea is just to neutralize or slightly reverse any excess pH in the system from hard water having been in the system, and loosen up/dissolve the resulting mineral deposits that can plug radiator cores and sometimes larger passages in the block. You don't want the acid to be strong enough to etch anything; hence the need to fully dilute muriatic acid.
 

Steamer

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If you can fab up some fittings so you can remove the water pump and T-stat housing. You will get better velocity with the flush and not damage those items with the acid. Velocity does help. And with those items removed, you can get a peek inside to see what shape the cooling jacket is in.

flush 01b.jpg
 
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THE best cleaner for your cooling system is a simple dose of Cascade dishwashing-Liquid/Dissolved powder.(don't use regular soap--it foams). This stuff will remove gunk you never thought was in there-You can use the newer liquid 'packets' -dissolve them first and then filter thru a coffee filter before putting into the system--if you use the powder--do the same--mix up about a full 1.5 cups of cleaner to a gallon of water--(hot).-mix until dissolved, then filter. pour this into the empty system, then add clean water to fill. Make sure to "burp" the system to get all the air out--start the engine and run until the temp gets to to normal operating temp(185-200--t-stat open))--run for AT LEAST 30 mins)-you can drive around for this(recommended)--shut down and let cool. let the engine sit for at least 4 hours--check the rad water--if it looks really nasty(and it probably will)-dump the system and repeat--After the second flush, dump the system, fill w/clean water, start and run up to op temp, then shut down and dump again. Refill with normal coolant(burp the system to remove all air) and you are good to go.--- I think there is a video or pics of this process on the forum from some time back--you will not believe the crap that this stuff takes out of the system--and it is nothing more than dish washing detergent!!--No acid problems pitting the coolant passages(much like a Molybdate pacification process(pickling)--This will NOT aggravate the corrosion pits that are inherent in the system, and open up new-fresh metal to further pitting--it tends to passivate those pitting sites--
 

graham5david

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THE best cleaner for your cooling system is a simple dose of Cascade dishwashing-Liquid/Dissolved powder.(don't use regular soap--it foams). This stuff will remove gunk you never thought was in there-You can use the newer liquid 'packets' -dissolve them first and then filter thru a coffee filter before putting into the system--if you use the powder--do the same--mix up about a full 1.5 cups of cleaner to a gallon of water--(hot).-mix until dissolved, then filter. pour this into the empty system, then add clean water to fill. Make sure to "burp" the system to get all the air out--start the engine and run until the temp gets to to normal operating temp(185-200--t-stat open))--run for AT LEAST 30 mins)-you can drive around for this(recommended)--shut down and let cool. let the engine sit for at least 4 hours--check the rad water--if it looks really nasty(and it probably will)-dump the system and repeat--After the second flush, dump the system, fill w/clean water, start and run up to op temp, then shut down and dump again. Refill with normal coolant(burp the system to remove all air) and you are good to go.--- I think there is a video or pics of this process on the forum from some time back--you will not believe the crap that this stuff takes out of the system--and it is nothing more than dish washing detergent!!--No acid problems pitting the coolant passages(much like a Molybdate pacification process(pickling)--This will NOT aggravate the corrosion pits that are inherent in the system, and open up new-fresh metal to further pitting--it tends to passivate those pitting sites--
This works wonders.
 

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