Radiator Removal Advice (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Jul 21, 2019
Threads
3
Messages
34
Location
Saint Paris, OH
Radiator started leaking the other day, seems to be a crack in the bottom (or so it seems). Trying to remove it, and got stuck at the top nuts and studs that hold the thing in. They just spin freely. I suppose it's rusted/seized a little bit, but not sure what to do. Hit it with PB Blaster on the nut and threads, but all that seemed to do was smell like PB Blaster. Is there a trick to this? I've searched A LOT, watched a lot of useless videos (ok, otherwise maybe useful to some), and I have not seen this addressed. Thanks.

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I'm pretty sure I put a vice grip on the big washer under the head of the pin and that held it.
 
The post and nut, IME, of that cushion get welded together (from corrosion) so no way to save the cushion,
as mentioned, just a pair of Vice grips to clamp down hard on the cushion post/washer then attempt to remove
the nut. The post will likely snap so buy a couple of replacement cushions or "isolators" with new nuts before you proceed.

And FWIW the larger rubber donut cushions that the radiator rests on become hard from age so now's a good time to replace those also.

And if you look at the photos you can see the brackets (radiator support) are rusty also. There's a larger bracket that the "L" bracket for
the radiator rests on. Both of those brackets hold water and dirt due to their shape, so FWIW while you're in there you could drill
a drain hole or two into each of the brackets on both sides then prime and paint them (or buy new brackets and drill and paint them before installation).

You've also got some rust on the smaller bracket holding the upper cushion/isolator, consider fixing or replacing that while the radiator is out.
 
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Thanks guys, I'll see what I can do. I wonder why they didn't put a hex head on this thing. Seems outrageous. I did try a little grabbing it with channel locks, but I thought "no, there must be some trick to it".
 
The new type of vice grips that you can use something like a small screwdriver to tighten down the jack screw/jaws (more) work better than the older type that just have a knurled knob, IME. They can deform the part you're working on but in this case it likely won't be salvageable.
 
I've always just been able to hold onto it with channel locks and re-use, but mine's not a crusty rig so YMMV...

And since you're asking for advice, replace the ATF soft lines going to the bottom of the radiator!
 

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