radiator question

[skhochay]

hello all tech smarts pant .
I want to get 4 rows aluminum radiator for my LX450 from ebay
4Row Aluminum Radiator For Toyota Landcruiser 93-97 / Lexus LX450 96-97(4.5L L6) | eBay

the concern that I have that this rad no not have transmission line cooling tank, it is relay a must to have tans rad line even LX450 do have aux cooling radiator.

 

[Bigdrewbowski]

I have a '97 LX450, and I would not install any radiator that did not have the exact coolant flow as the OEM. If that radiator does not feed the aux cooling systems then it would be a hard pass.

 

[Tools R Us]

hello all tech smarts pant .
I want to get 4 rows aluminum radiator for my LX450 from ebay
4Row Aluminum Radiator For Toyota Landcruiser 93-97 / Lexus LX450 96-97(4.5L L6) | eBay

the concern that I have that this rad no not have transmission line cooling tank, it is relay a must to have tans rad line even LX450 do have aux cooling radiator.

Why? My guess; it's an old school design, 4 core is often less desirable, more restrictive, less cooling capacity. A 2 core of more modern design is very likely to have significantly more cooling capacity.

 

[-Spike-]

I'm having a hard time understanding your post. The picture in the ad looks like it has barbs for a transmission cooler, and I don't see anything in the description that says otherwise. Looks like it could be a good radiator, and I'm surprised at the price, seems low. I'd be willing to try it if I were in the market. If it doesn't have an internal transmission cooler you'd have to add one, but that could be a good thing. Less heat in the cooling system, and probably better cooling for the transmission. Of course, I come from the desert, where more cooling is always better.

Then again, it would be a gamble as to whether or not it would cool as well as a stock radiator.

 

[skhochay]

I have a '97 LX450, and I would not install any radiator that did not have the exact coolant flow as the OEM. If that radiator does not feed the aux cooling systems then it would be a hard pass.

I'm having a hard time understanding your post. The picture in the ad looks like it has barbs for a transmission cooler, and I don't see anything in the description that says otherwise. Looks like it could be a good radiator, and I'm surprised at the price, seems low. I'd be willing to try it if I were in the market. If it doesn't have an internal transmission cooler you'd have to add one, but that could be a good thing. Less heat in the cooling system, and probably better cooling for the transmission. Of course, I come from the desert, where more cooling is always better.

Then again, it would be a gamble as to whether or not it would cool as well as a stock radiator.

my stock /new radiator is not cooling enough I have TRD SC that gives extra heat to the engine , in the summer time I am pushing 105*C which is not good I have tried 3 rows cooper brass and is is worst that 2 rows aluminium , so I need bigger radiator this on e-bay 4 rows is thicker I hope it will cool better - not a fact.

 

[danthman114]

get ahold of nlxtacy and ask what he has. hes already sorted this out. I cant remember who made his radiator but I'm looking into getting a better on than the stock design. I'm not running a SC but the summers here are brutal and make it run hot...
I wish mishimoto made one for the 80... I have on in my YJ and it never reaches 190 on the hottest days...

 

[inkpot]

I too have the TRD SC setup but I don’t have cooling problems lilt that even though I am here in the Sonoran Desert. Have you upgraded your fan, fan clutch, and fan clutch juice? I am running the Koyo 1918 A aluminum radiator, and I think my next one will likely be a TYC unit for just a wee bit more cooling when I wheel in the summer.

 

[ccslider]

You have other issues if your stock radaitor won't keep it cool..

 

[midfat]

For $320 bucks, I put a factory brass OEM radiator in my 97 - along with a new thermostat, water pump and blue fan clutch. I'm hard pressed to get it warmer than 190*. It's rock solid at 185* +/- 2*. For the money, I have trouble understanding why people look so hard for a cheaper solution. For an extra hundred bucks, I get a 100% know result that 20+ years proven. To go any other route seems penny wize, pound foolish. But that's just me.

 

[Tools R Us]

For $320 bucks, I put a factory brass OEM radiator in my 97 - along with a new thermostat, water pump and blue fan clutch. I'm hard pressed to get it warmer than 190*. It's rock solid at 185* +/- 2*. For the money, I have trouble understanding why people look so hard for a cheaper solution. For an extra hundred bucks, I get a 100% know result that 20+ years proven. To go any other route seems penny wize, pound foolish. But that's just me.

On a supercharged rig? I have never seen a copper rad give that type of performance on a S/C rig when pushed hard in the heat.

 

[danthman114]

For $320 bucks, I put a factory brass OEM radiator in my 97 - along with a new thermostat, water pump and blue fan clutch. I'm hard pressed to get it warmer than 190*. It's rock solid at 185* +/- 2*. For the money, I have trouble understanding why people look so hard for a cheaper solution. For an extra hundred bucks, I get a 100% know result that 20+ years proven. To go any other route seems penny wize, pound foolish. But that's just me.

if mine stayed at 185 I wouldn't know how to act. weather has a lot to do with how hot it gets...

 

[midfat]

On a supercharged rig? I have never seen a copper rad give that type of performance on a S/C rig when pushed hard in the heat.

Admittedly, I do not have forced induction. If the OP was looking for suggestions exclusively for an SC'd rig, than yeah, a higher performance (read higher capacity) radiator is likely warranted. A Ron Davis radiator would likley be my first stop.

 

[skhochay]

For $320 bucks, I put a factory brass OEM radiator in my 97 - along with a new thermostat, water pump and blue fan clutch. I'm hard pressed to get it warmer than 190*. It's rock solid at 185* +/- 2*. For the money, I have trouble understanding why people look so hard for a cheaper solution. For an extra hundred bucks, I get a 100% know result that 20+ years proven. To go any other route seems penny wize, pound foolish. But that's just me.

I have tried cooper brass 3 rows , by the way it is not OEM for 97 models , for 97 OEM is 2 rows aluminium , so you a bit off but that OK, anyways I did tried cooper brass for $300 not is is not cooling well , aluminium doing a lot better cooling job. Cooper takes heat a lot better that aluminium but aluminium evaporated heat way way better that cooper., so when you have 3 radiators one for transmission one for AC and tour core and they sits in front on core - as far as airflow and cooling cooper is be the worst.

 

[skhochay]

I too have the TRD SC setup but I don’t have cooling problems lilt that even though I am here in the Sonoran Desert. Have you upgraded your fan, fan clutch, and fan clutch juice? I am running the Koyo 1918 A aluminum radiator, and I think my next one will likely be a TYC unit for just a wee bit more cooling when I wheel in the summer.

yes I have aluminium KOYO , my fan clutch is new I did not modified silicon viscosity yet, do you recommend?

 

[midfat]

if mine stayed at 185 I wouldn't know how to act. weather has a lot to do with how hot it gets...

I love in SoCal, so I'm no stranger to high temps. Not uncommon for me to be sitting in full-stop traffic with 100+ ambient. Hottest coolant temps I've been able to hit since doing a full system overhaul was 195* - on a slow climb in 4lo. I attribute a lot to the Wits End blue fan clutch. It moves a lot of air!

 

[NLXTACY]

I have the Ron David Racing all aluminum radiator which emptied my wallet by $1k. It’s a two row where each row is 1-5/8” (IIRC) so it was about 3/8” thicker than stock. It also has 12 fins per inch vs OEM 7 fins per inch. I seriously attribute this radiator to saving my ass a few times when I was going thru my overheating issues.

 

[skhochay]

I love in SoCal, so I'm no stranger to high temps. Not uncommon for me to be sitting in full-stop traffic with 100+ ambient. Hottest coolant temps I've been able to hit since doing a full system overhaul was 195* - on a slow climb in 4lo. I attribute a lot to the Wits End blue fan clutch. It moves a lot of air!

let me clarify something , when I have AC off my temp is +/- 195 is I have AC on its goes up . it seems like AC condenser that mounted before core radiator heating up my core , is that normal that AC condencer is hot and so hot to torch?

 

[skhochay]

I have the Ron David Racing all aluminum radiator which emptied my wallet by $1k. It’s a two row where each row is 1-5/8” (IIRC) so it was about 3/8” thicker than stock. It also has 12 fins per inch vs OEM 7 fins per inch. I seriously attribute this radiator to saving my ass a few times when I was going thru my overheating issues.

more details on your rad please, where I can find one?

 

[midfat]

I have tried cooper brass 3 rows , by the way it is not OEM for 97 models , for 97 OEM is 2 rows aluminium , so you a bit off but that OK, anyways I did tried cooper brass for $300 not is is not cooling well , aluminium doing a lot better cooling job. Cooper takes heat a lot better that aluminium but aluminium evaporated heat way way better that cooper., so when you have 3 radiators one for transmission one for AC and tour core and they sits in front on core - as far as airflow and cooling cooper is be the worst.

Correct, I replaced my original aluminum rad with an early model OEM brass when the top split open. Did some reading and seemed like both worked equally well with the main advantage being weight (aluminum was lighter by a good margin). Since brass is theoretically easier to repair, I went brass. I certainly am not advocating that one shouldn't consider aftermarket options, just think it's hard to beat the OEM options for both price and durability. Relating to forced induction rigs, that's a different conversation.

 

[midfat]

let me clarify something , when I have AC off my temp is +/- 195 is I have AC on its goes up . it seems like AC condenser that mounted before core radiator heating up my core , is that normal that AC condencer is hot and so hot to torch?

I leave my AC on year around. I'd check to make sure you're getting good air flow through the AC condenser. Make sure it's not caked with dirt. Also, moving to a lower viscosity fan clutch (blue fan clutch) made a big difference for me. The fan "roars" now where it didn't before. If I pop the hood open while the engine is hot and running, it's a windy place to be.

In all, I think it's a combination of many things that are all attributed to age. Flush, new radiator, new thermostat, new water pump, new hoses, new fan clutch. All together, it runs like a factor fresh cooling system - because it basically is.