radiator interchange?

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I have an 82 BJ42 (from NZ) and it needs a new radiator. It has the inlet on the LEFT side of the vehicle.

Does anyone know what radiators will interchange, in terms of fitting in the radiator frame? I know the ports won't be on the right side; it doesn't look like any other model had the lower on the left, but thats OK. I think late model FJ40 radiators look superficially similar, but a mirror image...

Also, does anyone have a picture of what radiatorbarn.com or other discount places sell?
 
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I ordered a couple of FJ40 rads from the rad barn and they were identical to the stk 1.
 
Howdy! Can't help with the interchange info, but what is wrong with the old radiator? Leaky seams and bad cores can be repaired/replaced by any good radiator shop. You may want to get an estimate or two before buying a new one. On the other hand, IF an FJ 40 radiator is a PERFECT mirror image, then the same GOOD radiator shop can move the outlets to wherever you need them. I had my lower outlet moved from the back to the bottom of the tank over 10 years ago, and it still is dry as toast. John
 
My radiator is leaking from the seams, seems to have been repaired before, including a few days ago by myself (unsuccessfully, it seems). There are large areas of crushed fins and bent tubes, it'd need a recore.

The problem with the repair angle is that local shops wanted $200 just to pull the top tank and resolder it.
 
Amaurer, you can still get a OEM from Toyota (16400-56101) for about $330.00 (plus $15.00 for the drain cock 96431-53873), however it is not the heavy duty type (16400-56111) as it is obsolete. I believe SOR has used (reconditioned?) rads for $250.00 in stock.
 
I just ordered a 4 core from the Radiator Barn for my 77 FJ 40, $194.00 delivered.
 
Amaurer, you can still get a OEM from Toyota (16400-56101) for about $330.00 (plus $15.00 for the drain cock 96431-53873), however it is not the heavy duty type (16400-56111) as it is obsolete. I believe SOR has used (reconditioned?) rads for $250.00 in stock.

Are these the BJ part numbers or the FJ?
 
Those numbers are for the BJ (10-1981 onwards for the radiator, and 3-1981 onwards for the drain cock assembly).
 
Performance Radiator®

They are in many western states and have been consitently cheaper (at least here in HI).

Good quality and a "free" radiator cap with each purchase.

The 4 core radiator reservoirs are not any thicker than the three core. The core has more tubes and takes up all the available space.
 
Performance Radiator®

They are in many western states and have been consitently cheaper (at least here in HI).

Good quality and a "free" radiator cap with each purchase.

The 4 core radiator reservoirs are not any thicker than the three core. The core has more tubes and takes up all the available space.

The models they list, including for the diesel, have both ports on the wrong sides... "12CBR" is the model.

It'd be a little awkward to plumb the upper hose from the thermostat that faces to the right to a port on the left...
 
Since their radiators are of copper & brass construction, it would be possible if not easy to relocate the top hose connection. Or they could likely bring something in for you. Another option (and pricey) is to go with an aluminum rad. I believe Summit has them with whatever config. you want. Once you price it, the radiator shop mod. becomes quite economical.
 
I pulled my radiator and will just have it recored. I figure they have to take the whole thing apart for a recore anyway, so any leaks will get soldered up in the process.

Plus some people weighed in that they think repairing the OEM rad is better than going aftermarket, so this'll work...
 
Absolutely!

Enjoy, Aloha
 
And if they're any good they'll offer to replace the top header tank if they find it is badly cracked Andrew. (These tanks are easy enough for a good radiator shop to source.)

:cheers:
 
ok, i found a *good* shop to recore it and dropped it off. Its going to be expensive, more than double what a new aftermarket job would cost (!!), but I think I'm pleased. the guy in the shop knew cruisers pretty well ("those have that 3" long drain on the bottom, right?") and was knowledgable.

Anyway, the question: currently I have a straight-fin core in my radiator. The guy suspected that wasn't original, but we couldn't be sure given the overseas heritage of my truck. We talked for a long time about the relative merits of straight fin vs corrugated fins and I end up going with straight fin. I'm told its a more durable design but less efficient. Since its an offroad vehicle, and it has a rattle-y 3B behind it, I figured durability was key. I never had overheating problems with the straight-fin core in there now, so no problem!... right?

Thoughts?
 
.....Anyway, the question: currently I have a straight-fin core in my radiator. The guy suspected that wasn't original, but we couldn't be sure given the overseas heritage of my truck. We talked for a long time about the relative merits of straight fin vs corrugated fins and I end up going with straight fin. I'm told its a more durable design but less efficient. Since its an offroad vehicle, and it has a rattle-y 3B behind it, I figured durability was key. I never had overheating problems with the straight-fin core in there now, so no problem!... right?...Thoughts?

I've always had straight fins Andrew and I've never had my temperature gauge even reach the 3/4 mark - Even when driving in soft sand on a 40 oC day in Western Australia!

In fact my radiator is so oversized I sometimes spray it with fishoiline and bitumous paint (my favourite undersealer - but diluted of course) to lengthen the life of the fins.

:cheers:
 
Excellent, thanks Tom. I guess the straight-fin core was stock after all... it certainly looked 25 years old...
 
perfecto... reworked to print.
noname.jpg
 

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