Radiator- FJ80 (1 Viewer)

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NSB-Florida
The current one year old radiator that the previous owner installed developed a leak and I am looking to replace with a new 3 row aluminum model. Anyone tell me the pros and cons of staying with the heavy guage OEM over the lighter and less expensive Aluminum? Your response will be appreciated.
 
FJ or FZJ80? The FJ OEM is discontinued as far as I know. I replaced mine last year with the CSF 2709 copper one. I’m very happy with it so far. Seemed to be the most popular choice at the time.
 
FJ or FZJ80? The FJ OEM is discontinued as far as I know. I replaced mine last year with the CSF 2709 copper one. I’m very happy with it so far. Seemed to be the most popular choice at the time.
I believe mine is the FJ80- 4.0L, 1992. I believe the FZJ models didnt come out until 93 with the newer engine. Thanks for the info on the radiator. I am currently looking over ebay adds to try and locate one.
 
There’s like a million of these threads.. like it’s rocket science or something.

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If I bought another one I'd get aluminum, as they cool better and that's what a radiator should do right?
 
I appreciate the response. I located a 2 row all aluminum on ebay, trying to locate a 3 row.

Honestly, I did the same thing until I was blue in the face. In the end I went with what had a good reputation here and didn’t cost a fortune. I would be curious to see what you get if you decide on an aluminum one.
 
I had a CSF cooper/brass put in when my OEM took a crap @ 220k, since then i have had overheating issues on grade climb and the CSF was unable to shed heat at an effective rate. I finally bite the bullet and purchased a Ron Davis 2 roll alum. My coolant temp never get over 200 F even on long steep hill climbs with full load and AC, before i had to pull over a few times and turn on heater just to keep my temp below 220F
Ask me how i know....
RD alum. runs ~20 F cooler compared to my CSF on steep grade; City driving, no obvious difference, 185-190 F in traffic, the biggest advantage as far as i can tell is the ability to shed heat and recovery after grade on the 2 row alum.
 
I had a CSF cooper/brass put in when my OEM took a crap @ 220k, since then i have had overheating issues on grade climb and the CSF was unable to shed heat at an effective rate. I finally bite the bullet and purchased a Ron Davis 2 roll alum. My coolant temp never get over 200 F even on long steep hill climbs with full load and AC, before i had to pull over a few times and turn on heater just to keep my temp below 220F
Ask me how i know....
RD alum. runs ~20 F cooler compared to my CSF on steep grade; City driving, no obvious difference, 185-190 F in traffic, the biggest advantage as far as i can tell is the ability to shed heat and recovery after grade on the 2 row alum.

That’s interesting. I suppose I haven’t put mine through quite the same severity of use. My truck is usually empty and I have a relatively short, flat commute. Most I’ve put it through is the twisty roads through the Texas hill country on the way to off-road parks.
 
That’s interesting. I suppose I haven’t put mine through quite the same severity of use. My truck is usually empty and I have a relatively short, flat commute. Most I’ve put it through is the twisty roads through the Texas hill country on the way to off-road parks.
Do you run a real time temp gauge? My stock gauge sits in the middle between 150-215 F and shows no signs of temp creep. @ 225 F it moves to 3/4 just below RED.
 
I had a CSF cooper/brass put in when my OEM took a crap @ 220k, since then i have had overheating issues on grade climb and the CSF was unable to shed heat at an effective rate. I finally bite the bullet and purchased a Ron Davis 2 roll alum. My coolant temp never get over 200 F even on long steep hill climbs with full load and AC, before i had to pull over a few times and turn on heater just to keep my temp below 220F
Ask me how i know....
RD alum. runs ~20 F cooler compared to my CSF on steep grade; City driving, no obvious difference, 185-190 F in traffic, the biggest advantage as far as i can tell is the ability to shed heat and recovery after grade on the 2 row alum.

I am interested to see how much that radiator costs and if it installed easily without modifications. Did you purchase one of their grounding kits as well?
 
Do you run a real time temp gauge? My stock gauge sits in the middle between 150-215 F and shows no signs of temp creep. @ 225 F it moves to 3/4 just below RED.

I’m not running another gauge, just the stock one. But I haven’t seen it ever move into the upper 1/4 of its range. I suppose I’d only spend the money on one if I had a reason to like yourself. Sorry for the hijack.
 
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Looks like rock auto has a couple aluminum rads. that are under $200.00 , and I've heard green coolant is what you want in an aluminum rad FYI.
 
I am interested to see how much that radiator costs and if it installed easily without modifications. Did you purchase one of their grounding kits as well?
About $1200 for the radiator. Install requires no modification, but I took my time and make sure the fan shroud is sealed properly....I didn't get the grounding kit tho.
 

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