radiator failure???

[dustbowl]

Can confirm it looked EXACTLY like this on my 100....at highway speed. It splashed all over my windshield and the cars behind me. Very obvious.

yea i watched that vid---POOF no radiator!! not the way i want to find out i have a bad radiator. i think i will forfeit and change out maybe every 100000 miles or so.

 

[atnolan94]

yea i watched that vid---POOF no radiator!! not the way i want to find out i have a bad radiator. i think i will forfeit and change out maybe every 100000 miles or so.

Yup, and you KNOW it'll happen as far from home as possible. Like mine did!

 

[PADDO]

@ponytl

Good points on coolant flow , which evolves the thread a little but I think its relevant to the thread title.... so I’ll bring up the idea of adding coolant pressure switch.

One could add a pressure sensor to a brass heater T, and run a warning light inside to the dash. Ive seen some kits for $25 -75. But one could be fabbed easy enough. Downside is risk for leak if not engineered well.

What makes more sense to me (theoretically) would be a overflow/reservoir tank low level sensor if it can throw a warning light ahead of rapid coolant loss.

In a catastrophic or rapid coolant loss- would the overflow bottle be sucked dry quickly- fast enough to to trip a low level warning light to avert damage?

Im confident that an in-line pressure sensor at the heater T would prob work more effectively but curious about the effectivness of a level sensor.

A good non invasive alternate for real time block temp in-cabin display with audio alarm is to use a thermocouple based system. These don’t use the OE in contact coolant sensor and don’t compromise your cooling system with extra parts. The multi channel ones can monitor engine, transfer, transmission. Have a look at Aussie company enginewatchdog.com. The TM2 was available for around $99 AU not long ago. My bro has one in his 80 and thinks it’s great.

 

[abuck99]

A good non invasive alternate for real time block temp in-cabin display with audio alarm is to use a thermocouple based system. These don’t use the OE in contact coolant sensor and don’t compromise your cooling system with extra parts. The multi channel ones can monitor engine, transfer, transmission. Have a look at Aussie company enginewatchdog.com. The TM2 was available for around $99 AU not long ago. My bro has one in his 80 and thinks it’s great.

Cool product Paddo- Ive been thinking about adding a non-invasive option to monitor head or block temperature but haven't zoned in on a perfect set up. TrailTech makes some nice little battery powered or 12v linked gauges that use a similar through bolt pick up sensor (TTO mini gauges). Although in-line coolant sensor may have downsides for leaking potential, I think a pressure sensor might provide more instantaneous alert compared to a block type sensor.

 

[PADDO]

Pressure and flow sensors can take a bit to setup their thresholds and to avoid false alerts - like at startup with a cold engine and no pressure v hot and pressurized. All doable with the right amount of effort though.

 

[Spike555]

I guess I'll reply just so others don't think you are informed or in the slightest way correct... otherwise I'd just let you believe as you wish... the water exiting the radiator is maybe 230 degrees no steam to notice in your rear view... chances are the sensor is going to continue to pick up the heat from the engine it's not going to rapidly cool... the factory gauge is not all that accurate anyway... I doubt that if you did nothing but stare at your temp gauge and never look at the road you would not see anything that would allow you to react in time to prevent damage.. these aluminum heads on iron blocks warp very quick... your first clue will be a loss of power which you will think is throttle related, your temp gauge will tell you nothing.. and you will coast to a dead powerless stop... all the while scanning your mirrors, gauges, and the road ahead every 3-5 seconds... i hope you have your phone to call for help... then... while waiting fo help you can visit this forum and you can read my previous post on engine replacement

I guess we will keep going on this until you are informed and understand that I am correct.
When a radiator blows, or a coolant hose, there is a huge cloud of steam (just so you know, water boils at 212*F)
Your coolant is half water, the only reason the water does not boil in your cooling system is because it is under pressure, which is created by the radiator cap.
You will see the steam unless you're a complete jackass and not paying attention to anything.
They also make a noise when they blow because of the sudden pressure loss. So unless you have the stereo cranked you are going to hear a unusual noise which, unless you're a total baboon will make you start looking around to see what's going on, and you will see the steam, and you will have coolant collecting on your windshield most likely. It doesn't just dump on the ground, the wind from your driving is going to push it back onto everything behind the leak.

You are not going to blow up your engine in a few seconds after coolant loss, if you continue to drive yes, but a few minutes while you pull over is not going to blow up your engine.

So, to recap, if you're paying attention to your vehicle and surroundings you will notice a sudden coolant loss. You will not blow up your engine in a few seconds. Check your gauges and mirrors often. Put the phone down and pay attention.

 

[phippsj]

Got mine done today. This is what my independent Lexus mechanic told me was the OEM replacement.

 

[Spike555]

Just for everyone's FYI, how much was that @phippsj?

 

[phippsj]

$550 in parts (including t-stat, hoses and coolant). A little more than that in labor.

Not cheap, but it was done right the first time by a professional mechanic. Well worth the peace of mind while driving across West Texas in July on the way to HIH8 with my boys aboard.

I’m sure one could DIY for under $500. I’m busy working. Got no time for wrenching.

 

[ponytl]

@ponytl

Good points on coolant flow , which evolves the thread a little but I think its relevant to the thread title.... so I’ll bring up the idea of adding coolant pressure switch.

One could add a pressure sensor to a brass heater T, and run a warning light inside to the dash. Ive seen some kits for $25 -75. But one could be fabbed easy enough. Downside is risk for leak if not engineered well.

What makes more sense to me (theoretically) would be a overflow/reservoir tank low level sensor if it can throw a warning light ahead of rapid coolant loss.

In a catastrophic or rapid coolant loss- would the overflow bottle be sucked dry quickly- fast enough to to trip a low level warning light to avert damage?

Im confident that an in-line pressure sensor at the heater T would prob work more effectively but curious about the effectivness of a level sensor.

I wouldn't go in the heater T... might put a T where the temp sender is... all you need is a pretty standard pressure sending unit that is normally on that goes off @ 10lb much like a low oil pressure sending unit the only problem is it will be ON until you build pressure in the system.. which might be annoying would be a simple 1 wire hook up... I check under my hood.... oil and coolant at every fill up... which in my case is every couple days... since I did the engine in my DD I know exactly what I'm looking for and know when something isn't kosher, I'm at 350k on this one (one of 5 in my mini fleet) and I'd take it anywhere tomorrow ... I pull our loaded race trailer every weekend sometimes 100's of miles without a second thought...

 

[ponytl]

I guess we will keep going on this until you are informed and understand that I am correct.
When a radiator blows, or a coolant hose, there is a huge cloud of steam (just so you know, water boils at 212*F)
Your coolant is half water, the only reason the water does not boil in your cooling system is because it is under pressure, which is created by the radiator cap.
You will see the steam unless you're a complete jackass and not paying attention to anything.
They also make a noise when they blow because of the sudden pressure loss. So unless you have the stereo cranked you are going to hear a unusual noise which, unless you're a total baboon will make you start looking around to see what's going on, and you will see the steam, and you will have coolant collecting on your windshield most likely. It doesn't just dump on the ground, the wind from your driving is going to push it back onto everything behind the leak.

You are not going to blow up your engine in a few seconds after coolant loss, if you continue to drive yes, but a few minutes while you pull over is not going to blow up your engine.

So, to recap, if you're paying attention to your vehicle and surroundings you will notice a sudden coolant loss. You will not blow up your engine in a few seconds. Check your gauges and mirrors often. Put the phone down and pay attention.

yes dear you are correct... I'm sure you are a joy to all around you

 

[jerryb]

spike needs to go buy a few BMW's and keep them around for a few years and then report back about catastrophic coolant loss. Anyone reading this can afford a new radiator, and probably should. Any brand new is more efficient than the old one.

 

[Trailguy]

I should also note, while I changed the radiator, I also put on all new upper and lower hoses and clamps. I also replaced the heater hoses and the T fittings. The T fitting were scary bad....on a wing and a prayer bad. the intake water flow direction on both T fittings were a third of the way corroded! Glad I replaced them!

 

[tpscruisers]

I just responded to an old post about my 05 radiator blowing up this week. This post is newer/more active and hoping you guys can tell me how much trouble I'm in...or send me part 2 of the movie so I can see what happens next. I'm the guy that didn't look at his gauges when he should have. Fortunately, I was only in my backyard. Where do I start and what else should I be concerned with other than replacing the radiator, thermostat, etc? It was running at idle for 30+ min on a hot day while trying to get my fj40 started. I got in to turn it around to jump-start the 40 and the radiator blew up. I did notice the check engine light, Trac Off and VSC lights were on when I jumped in to move it, but stupidly, didn't check the gauges in my rush. (In the moment I thought I'd tackle one problem at a time). I'll be travelling this week, but looking to get as much direction as possible to decide what to do when I get back.

How bad is it??

 

[abuck99]

Prob ok since this happened in the back yard and you caught it and hopefully shut down as it blew up. Start with new radiator, complete system flush since there was a system over pressurization and may be some crud plugged somewhere, change hoses, new T-stat, new Radiator cap, check your heater T's and hoses, replace if older than 7yrs. Get a Scanguage or other OBD2 connected device so you can monitor actual engine temps and see how she goes.

 

[tpscruisers]

Thanks for the quick response!

 

[Spike555]

View attachment 1738120 I just responded to an old post about my 05 radiator blowing up this week. This post is newer/more active and hoping you guys can tell me how much trouble I'm in...or send me part 2 of the movie so I can see what happens next. I'm the guy that didn't look at his gauges when he should have. Fortunately, I was only in my backyard. Where do I start and what else should I be concerned with other than replacing the radiator, thermostat, etc? It was running at idle for 30+ min on a hot day while trying to get my fj40 started. I got in to turn it around to jump-start the 40 and the radiator blew up. I did notice the check engine light, Trac Off and VSC lights were on when I jumped in to move it, but stupidly, didn't check the gauges in my rush. (In the moment I thought I'd tackle one problem at a time). I'll be travelling this week, but looking to get as much direction as possible to decide what to do when I get back.

How bad is it??
View attachment 1738120

So did the radiator blow up when you went to move it? Or while you were away from the truck and it was running with no coolant for you have no idea how long?

If it is the first one, just replace the radiator and go.

If it is the second one, I'd fill the radiator with water using the garden hose, leave the hose running, start the engine and make sure it is ok before replacing anything.

 

[Spike555]

yes dear you are correct... I'm sure you are a joy to all around you

Not only am I the life of the party I don't blow up engines.

 

[tpscruisers]

So did the radiator blow up when you went to move it? Or while you were away from the truck and it was running with no coolant for you have no idea how long?

If it is the first one, just replace the radiator and go.

If it is the second one, I'd fill the radiator with water using the garden hose, leave the hose running, start the engine and make sure it is ok before replacing anything.

 

[tpscruisers]

It blew as soon as I turned it around. I just honestly can't remember if I turned off the car or if shut itself down. It caught me by surprise. Either way, it was off right away.