Radiator core thickness (1 Viewer)

[GREEKMEAT]

Does anybody know what thickness a STOCK 76 fj40 radiator is ? I think the one in mine is thicker,therefore has more cores than stock.I am putting an LT-1 350 in it and everybody says to upgrade the radiator to an aftermarket one. When I had my 2F in it ,it would take a solid 15-20 minutes to get to operating temp. I had this one rodded out and vatted, seems in pretty good shape.Thanks.

 

[Poser]

Does anybody know what thickness a STOCK 76 fj40 radiator is ? I think the one in mine is thicker,therefore has more cores than stock.I am putting an LT-1 350 in it and everybody says to upgrade the radiator to an aftermarket one. When I had my 2F in it ,it would take a solid 15-20 minutes to get to operating temp. I had this one rodded out and vatted, seems in pretty good shape.Thanks.

Then run it.


Stock 1976 is going to be a four core unit.

 

[Downey]

normally stock radiators prove extremely marginal in chevotas, the result being if you do one thing wrong or marginal, you better by-golly do everything else dead right (i.e. enough fan, low thermostat, good engine position, etc.) Even if you do use the stock radiator, the hose fittings will need to be swapped, right to left, left to right, and resized. The LT-1 should require 1 3/8" hose fittings top and bottom, and possibly the addition of a steam port. Good luck with it.

 

[cpratt]

Mine has the stock radiator with a 400 SBC. There's a 185 thermostat and very good fan shroud, as well as the radiator was tilted back slightly to close the gap around the fan and shroud.

The motor stay's amazingly cool, 180-185 driving around town with 85-90 degree temps outside. Hottest I've seen the motor get is 205 while pulling a huge hill at it was 95 out.

I think having a good fan/shroud is a key factor whatever radiator you have.

 

[Degnol]

Mine has the stock radiator with a 400 SBC. There's a 185 thermostat and very good fan shroud, as well as the radiator was tilted back slightly to close the gap around the fan and shroud.

The motor stay's amazingly cool, 180-185 driving around town with 85-90 degree temps outside. Hottest I've seen the motor get is 205 while pulling a huge hill at it was 95 out.

I think having a good fan/shroud is a key factor whatever radiator you have.

Shroud is the ticket and often overlooked.

 

[pb4ugo]

normally stock radiators prove extremely marginal in chevotas, the result being if you do one thing wrong or marginal, you better by-golly do everything else dead right (i.e. enough fan, low thermostat, good engine position, etc.) Even if you do use the stock radiator, the hose fittings will need to be swapped, right to left, left to right, and resized. The LT-1 should require 1 3/8" hose fittings top and bottom, and possibly the addition of a steam port. Good luck with it.

Swap the hose fittings????? Resize??

Stk 350, 160*t stat, marginal fan shroud, good fan and stk rad. Been running this way for 10 yrs or so, runs approx 180*+-. Might see over 200* if hammered for quite a while, but I have never had to stop doing what I was doing.

i

 

[dgangle]

Mine has the stock radiator with a 400 SBC. There's a 185 thermostat and very good fan shroud, as well as the radiator was tilted back slightly to close the gap around the fan and shroud.

The motor stay's amazingly cool, 180-185 driving around town with 85-90 degree temps outside. Hottest I've seen the motor get is 205 while pulling a huge hill at it was 95 out.

I think having a good fan/shroud is a key factor whatever radiator you have.

I agree on the fan/shroud info but I would seriously question the accuracy of your gauge. I ran a 400SBC back in the 80's with a stock replacement 3-core radiator and it would run 220+ without exception....265F when plowing wet, heavy snow with a GM thermal clutch fan and no shroud. That somegun had some torque though. It didn't matter what thermostat I put in it...160...180...195...none was the worse. And there was 'plenty' of airflow through the rad and around engine. bigger rad was the only real solution that I found but YMMV.

 

[Fuzzy Logic]

and possibly the addition of a steam port.

 

[omarle]

Hello guys,
Is there any specific distance between ta fan and the radiator itself. Found mine is very far from each other (>6").
When i compared to newer cars, the fan is located only a few cm from the radiator. Please help.

 

[dgangle]

with a properly designed and positioned shroud, no.

 

[GREEKMEAT]

steam port /Downey

I am also installing a taurus 2spd fan and shroud. I think it will work well with the stock 4 core. I also plan on putting in a/c too, hence my questions about the radiator size and such, I just didn't want to have to replace the radiator after I installed the a/c. I also heard about this steam port that is hooked into the radiator , Can anyone elaborate on it? Is it needed ? Downey,?

 

[dgangle]

The steam port deal has to do with drilling a hole in the head and has nothing to do with the radiator.

In my experience you are asking for problems. You have all the ingredients for a hot-running Chevota: 400SBC, AC, stock radiator, Taurus fan....I have been where you are in a much cooler climate (OH) and it ran HOT and by hot I mean 220-265 without hesitation on an Autometer gauge. Few may beg to offer a different experience, but the only way I and many others found to solve this problem is with a larger radiator, period. How much work, effort, time and cost is going to take to redo all this once one convinces them self that a marginal set up will be just fine and then finds out the hard way that it is insufficient? With the exception of AC, I have done exactly what you are planning and it ran unaceptably hot anytime the ambient temp was over 75F or if I drove on the highway. My current remedy includes a larger aluminum radiator, honkin' big GM thermal clutch fan, correctly-designed shroud, proper placement of engine and fan in shroud, 180TStat and it never bumps 190F. Do what you want but many have been down this road before and have made the same mistakes. Good luck and keep us posted of your results.

If you are interested in more info, search my name in the 40/55 section for 'V8 cooling' as I have documented with pics how I solved this problem.

 

[GREEKMEAT]

Thanks for the input dgangle, but I am running a late model LT1, not a 400. And factory they had this steam port that is hooked into the radiator from the heads, I was wondering about it because the motor has the radiator hoses and hardlines setup for this. I just have concerns about temps since it is going to be 102 freeking degrees today. BTW,nice rig.

 

[GREEKMEAT]

BTW,has anyone else done the LT1 conversion,and have any tips ? LT1 and turbo 400.

 

[GREEKMEAT]

Never mind,found it in FAQ's.

 

[dgangle]

Sorry 'bout transposing the 400 SBC for the LTI. Lots of LTI's out there. Great choice and good luck hookin' that badboy up. I'm not smart enough to figure out all those wires! QJets, GM HEI and V-belts forever!

Regardless, an LTI is invariably going to produce more heat and the 2F cooling system has been found by most to be inadequate to the task. Everything I said regarding upsizing the radiator, shroud, fan, etc I still standby. Been there, made that mistake, paid to fix it twice.