Rack & Pinion Bushings on a 2000 LX...

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I attached this to the end of an old post but was unsure it would get seen so I made a new thread since my question is kinda specific... I apologize for the duplication.


I took my 2000LX in for an alignment and was told the bushings (total of 3) on the rack and pinion were shot causing it to move side to side. The large one (44250) appears to be the one in the U bracket (45514). I was told that the other two were not serviceable and therefore required a complete r&p replacement. Is this true about the other two not being serviceable? From what I read in this thread they are. Am I missing something? Also I was quoted $1100 ($584 for the rack and pinion assembly 44250 from Toyota alone) from what I thought was a reputable indy. Any thoughts?
 
Just replace your bushings. Use the threads linked above and it shouldn't be too hard. I knocked mine out in an afternoon.
 
Thank you all for the input. The thoughtful responses make this board my favorite. I will tackle the bushings and forgo the $1,100 indy shop bill to replace the whole rack and pinion assembly.
 
You may want to pull the boots back from the steering rack to get a look at the inner tie rods too, mine was beat and was where my movement came from. The bushings needed replacement too, pretty easy and didn't take too long.
 
Worst case mine was beyond repair, leaking, ripped boots and failed TRE's. 195k miles.

Bought AAE from rock auto for $214 with no core charge. Check my build for all part numbers.
 
I just pick up a kit (poly bushing) from Slee Off Road. I feel comfortable using anything they stock. I would have gone with all rubber bushing had dealer been able to supply, as I prefer OEM.
 
I just pick up a kit (poly bushing) from Slee Off Road. I feel comfortable using anything they stock. I would have gone with all rubber bushing had dealer been able to supply, as I prefer OEM.
You won't prefer OEM when you see the design of the ones you take out of the OEM rack... :lol: They appear to be designed for isolation rather than positional stability. Poly replacements FTW. There's a reason the design got changed with the rollout of the '03+ trucks...
 
You won't prefer OEM when you see the design of the ones you take out of the OEM rack... :lol: They appear to be designed for isolation rather than positional stability. Poly replacements FTW. There's a reason the design got changed with the rollout of the '03+ trucks...
Did 03 change include use of poly?

I tend to go with OEM as first choice. Concern that stiffer poly bushing may increase impact to steering rack internals reducing life of very old rack, possible noise issues that have been reported by some, transfer of road feel through too diver via steering wheel (not all bad).

That said; Mr. T made a change for improvement of system, one would presume.
 
Did 03 change include use of poly?

I tend to go with OEM as first choice. Concern that stiffer poly bushing may increase impact to steering rack internals reducing life of very old rack, possible noise issues that have been reported by some, transfer of road feel through too diver via steering wheel (not all bad).

That said; Mr. T made a change for improvement of system, one would presume.
You haven't taken your OEM ones out yet, have you? :lol: take them out, look at them, then ask yourself about the counter-forces your rack experiences during steering, and what that does to the OEM bushing, and the positional stability of the OEM rack assembly. Yes, I too would prefer rubber, but not of the OEM design. Besides, you can't get either one, aftermarket poly or OEM complete rack are your only options. The objections you list are truly minor when compared to the reason(s) for wanting to change the bushings in the first place. If those are legitimate concerns for you, then OEM rack replacement is the way to go.
 
Very good points, all of which I'll consider.

My Rack appears in good working order, which I'll know more once these poly's are in. So changing the rack just too get the two DS rubber bushing, just wasn't cost effective, plus to much work. So I went with Slee's kit, too get the poly's they have. It was the best option without a doubt.
 
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Just to update, I bought the Whiteline kit from Amazon.com and installed it today. I am a little sore from some contorted positions on my back since I did it with jack stands and a pry bar. I followed the advice I got on this site and it was a huge help. I knocked the bushings out with a screw driver and a hammer. Using all-thread with nuts and washers was a lifesaver when it came to inserting the new bushings. The truck feels much better now and the rack is much tighter. Thanks to all who gave advice.
 
Just did this a few weekends back, well worth the time and it is an easy effort in my opinion. Knocked it out in under three hours while stopping to casually chat with my dad along the way. I'm sure it could easily be done in two hours if it needed to be.
 
Just to update, I bought the Whiteline kit from Amazon.com and installed it today. I am a little sore from some contorted positions on my back since I did it with jack stands and a pry bar. I followed the advice I got on this site and it was a huge help. I knocked the bushings out with a screw driver and a hammer. Using all-thread with nuts and washers was a lifesaver when it came to inserting the new bushings. The truck feels much better now and the rack is much tighter. Thanks to all who gave advice.

What write up did you use? This is on my future list.
 

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