R134? How much? (1 Viewer)

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NorCalDoug

problems solved daily...
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uhhhh...duh...Northern CA
How much should I buy? From where?

I need a full charge for the AC on my 80. Last August, my AC dryer decided to not jump out of the way as I approached a large boulder...ALL my freon is gone.

I'll be getting the work done in a couple weeks (after Moab), so I have some time to get what I need for the job.

Replacement parts? That was easy -- a call to CDan got me hooked up.

Refridgerant, on the other hand...I have no idea how much to buy.


Any ideas? Any suggestions?
 
Not sure but I know over here its illegal to stuff around with a/c .
Must be licensed .
 
NorCalDoug said:
I'll be getting the work done in a couple weeks (after Moab), so I have some time to get what I need for the job.


So you were you gonna tell me about this little detail when?????:flipoff2:
 
Last edited:
IIRC, the FSM states that the capacity if about 850 gm. Those little cans hold 350 gr, so you'd need 3 of 'em.

Do yourself a favor too and after you pull a vac, make sure the system holds it before you start filling, otherwise you'll just be buying more freon before you're done.
 
Three can's should do it. As someone else mentioned, you need to evacuate the system prior to charging it. Get a high side pressure gauge ($30) and charge the system so the pressure is about 2.5x ambient temperature. Search the old posts for information about this.
 
reffug said:
So you were you gonna tell me about this little detail when?????:flipoff2:

How am I supposed to ever surprise you if I tell you everything?

DUH!


:flipoff2:
 
LX_TREME said:
Shamed on me :flipoff2: after replaced the AC drier relocation kit i had the AC guy did it for me and cost $70 buks.

Ahhhh yes...forgot about your "lift".

Tell me -- should I remove the bumper? Will it make the job MUCH easier?

I'm thinking I should...
 
You should remove the front bumper, easy 2 big bolts on each side.

P.S: Pic- Bolts with yellow arrow point each other.
Bolts.JPG
 
I just went to an AC shop. They evac'd the system, refilled it and tested it out.
Didn't cost too much "if you believe captialism isn't that wierd".
 
reffug said:
So you were you gonna tell me about this little detail when?????:flipoff2:
NorCalDoug said:
How am I supposed to ever surprise you if I tell you everything?

DUH!


:flipoff2:

Okay, so are you guys "seeing" one another? :rolleyes: :princess:
 
Doug,

Can you buy R134 in the PRK? If you want I could bring you some to Cruise Moab. They even sell it in Walmart in Idaho.
 
Scamper said:
Okay, so are you guys "seeing" one another? :rolleyes: :princess:


If you don't know we ain't tellin.........:flipoff2:
 
ginericfj80 said:
Doug,

Can you buy R134 in the PRK? If you want I could bring you some to Cruise Moab. They even sell it in Walmart in Idaho.

I'll answer, yes, but it recently went from $2 a bottle to $7??!!!! I have been ruining the enviroment by topping off my Wife's car that has a very slow leak (about 1 bottle a year) rather than fixing it.
 
$7 is good. Wal Mart is back down to $8 but it spiked last year and our auto parts stores still have the 11 and 13 dollar stuff.
 
ginericfj80 said:
Doug,

Can you buy R134 in the PRK? If you want I could bring you some to Cruise Moab. They even sell it in Walmart in Idaho.

No problem getting it here...the older stuff is near impossible to find at a decent price though.

Thanks for offer. I think offroadkid and I will be working on this when I get back from CM06 :D
 
Doug,

R134a is quite reasonable as you know. It's almost worth it just to replace the broken parts and then have a pro A/C shop eva/recharge for you. Have them inject some leak detector dye in the mix for future leak detection. They can also make sure that you have the proper amount of oil in your A/C system. Usually, they mix the oil in with the 134 so that you're guaranteed to have the proper amount of oil. You may want to replace the o rings on each connection as you replace parts. The O rings will need to be moist with 134a oil before you connect up the parts.

The shop will check for leaks, fix them if any are found, then recharge your system. If your a/c performace is sub par, you can take it back to them as part of their warranty. This is the best part in my opinion.

If the shop has an issue with you doing the work, then just take them the new parts and have them deal wtih it.

Topping off a closed A/C system is more of a DIY than the real deal (evac/recharge/leak test using the two gauges)for the A/C shops. I usually leave that to the pros.

Just my .02

Ali
 
Doug, R134 definitely works best if you pull a vacuum for 30 min or more. I'll see if I can use my friends machine but it might cost you more to drive to Davis than paying someone in Sac.
 

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