R12 or R134? Picture with ports (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter 1stgen4ever
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- #2
This is a 1985 FJ60. This is a picture of the current AC setup. Can anyone tell me if this is R12 or R134?
Old Nick
GOLD Star
Are you asking which one you should use?
My 62 was converted to 134 back in the 90s by the PO. I've filled it with 134. A/C has blown cold for 2 years.
You'll have a hard time finding R12.
My BIL has a 1991 F-350. It ran R12. A/C/ did not work. We went to O'Reilly's. The dude who runs the shop is a gem. Retired life-time mechanic. He said that refilling with 134 would work and that there was no need for a "conversion" if the system was empty due to a leak. It was dry as a bone. We refilled the system with 134. It now blows ice-cold.
My 62 was converted to 134 back in the 90s by the PO. I've filled it with 134. A/C has blown cold for 2 years.
You'll have a hard time finding R12.
My BIL has a 1991 F-350. It ran R12. A/C/ did not work. We went to O'Reilly's. The dude who runs the shop is a gem. Retired life-time mechanic. He said that refilling with 134 would work and that there was no need for a "conversion" if the system was empty due to a leak. It was dry as a bone. We refilled the system with 134. It now blows ice-cold.
Old Nick
GOLD Star
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- #5
Curious if from these ports if someone can tell if it’s still the R12 or if it has been changed to the R134.
Follow up question would be, if these are R12 ports, how much is it and how hard it is to convert?
There is an original sticker on the radiator support that says R12. But that’s just been there since new.
kinda hard to tell from just the ports what refrigerant is in there. If it was converted by toyota, they would have put a cover on the top of your sight glass on the drier. To keep R12 in it, its not that hard to find the R12... its hard to find someone with R12 equipment to use unless you DIY. If you convert it to R134 youll need new o rings at all your connections as well as new oil. R134 uses PAG46. youll also need a new drier that is for R134
kevin in okinawa
SILVER Star
those appear to be r12. the r134 ports are bigger; try connecting a 134 recharge can to it to test the theory, I bet they are too big. I retrofitted mine to r134 years ago and it still blows super cold air.
And everything that dbbowen said about the orings, oil, and drier.
And everything that dbbowen said about the orings, oil, and drier.
When someone with R134 conversion done has a moment, can you post pics ? Thank you.
134 ports. Yours is still R12. The 134 ports just screw over the 12 ports.
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- #10
Great, thank you! I’ll take a look at those pieces.
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- #11
Great. Thank you! Any recommendations on where to find those for these or just a generic set from an auto parts store? Then take it to a shop and have them to a drain and fill correct?
Old Nick
GOLD Star
O’Reilly’s has the adapter kits.
Those are R12 ports. If converting to R134 a adapter fitting will screw onto the R12 fitting.
Living in the Past
SILVER Star
Just because the ports are for R12 doesn't automatically mean it's still R12. I have R12 as well as R134A in 30# jugs. Connection on the jug is the same and could add R134A using one of my gauge sets. Been retired for years but hear R134A and R410A are both on their way out. R12 and R134A are used in automotive A/C and refrigerators/freezers. Because of COVID I first picked up a smaller freezer then second refrigerator at our summer home because it's rural and certain items were not always in stock at grocery stores. Those both have something else used as a refrigerant. Believe the same will be true for R134A in automotive. I might buy a few R134A kits for my old cruisers still using R12 since I have a lot more R134A than R12 left. If I didn't not sure I would be switching to R134A as price will go up and as soon as all car manufacturers switch to something else. I miss the days auto parts stores sold small cans of R12 for 99 cents in the spring.
no new car to my knowledge uses 134 anymore. It's R1234YF for several years now. And in my opinion, its awful. It works fine, but the machines to use it kind of suck.
Yep, just use a generic set. You'll (or the shop of your choice) will want to remove as much mineral oil as you can and put PAG oil in. I've personally seen someone make the swap in a professional shop setting on multiple occasions without swapping to PAG oil with no ill effects but you're definitely supposed to.
