R/T help - BJ74/13B-T idler bolt won't loosen

[cult45]

Been a while since I've been over here, been busy on my FJ45. Recently did a fan belt on the 74 and want to replace all three whilst I'm here. But the a/c belt idler won't undo, and I need to loosen it to install the new fan belt cause it's on the sheave behind it.

Any thoughts? Needa get this sucker installed, stat!

Wide shot, then close up.

 

[cult45]

I should clarify, it loosens but the pulley doesn't move and therefore the belt doesn't slacken off. The whole bolt comes out.

 

[ozcrusier]

I would back all the bolts off holding the said pulley and then get a lever in there and give it a gentle shove. If this dont work pull it and have a good look for the problem.

 

[cult45]

I had an idea. This the timing chain/belt cover, right? The idler is held to it by three bolts. I was thinking about undoing two of the bolts and the idler would swing down, loosening the belt. My only concern is that perhaps the bolts are siliconed in because this is supposed to be watertight (oiltight)? Is this a really stupid idea??

 

[cruiserdan]

Have you backed off the nut in the pully hub? That is what clamps the pully in place after it is tensioned.

 

[LDowney]

It looks like the same belt tightener on the 3B in my BJ70 and it also did not move for a belt replacement. I used a length of wood (~ 2" by 2" in cross section) and gently drove the tightener down to break it loose.
(process) I showed it in penetrating oil then drove it down a short distance, then retighten it. Repeating several times to get it working smoothly.

As I recall; I also replaced the tightening bolt because it was heavily corroded and after all the work-n-time invested, I did not want to go through it again due to a failed bolt.

Good luck.

 

[Chester]

Have you backed off the nut in the pully hub? That is what clamps the pully in place after it is tensioned.

Shouldn't take a genius, luckily you have one.

 

[cult45]

Hi all, and thanks for the replies. It's now morning over here and I let it sit for the night a] hoping it may come to it's senses and b] that the 'Mudders would come to the rescue - and they have! I'll try the timber-and-BFH method first, and if that don't work I'll go down the removal route. I think I'll give the pulley nut a miss - it would be too hard to try and get the belt back on. I'll report back in a few hours!

- Dan

 

[cruiserdan]

The center nut needs to be loosened in order to move the pulley.

 

[cult45]

cruiserdan is correct. Luckily I discovered this the easy way. For those wanting to earmark this thread or know how to do this simple job, I would tackle it as such.

1. Liberally spray pulley centre nuts and idler adjusting bolts with lubricant. It's a Toyota, so it's probably gone 100k miles since it needed a belt or three. Soak overnight.
2. Slacken pulley centre nuts. This will also reduce the binding of the idler threaded receiver on the idler adjusting bolt shaft.
3. Back off idler adjusting bolts.
3a. If idler adjusting bolts are seized and the idler won't loosen [meaning you can't remove your belt], then remove the three bolts that retain the idler to the timing chain/belt cover. Once apart, check bearing for excessive play. Ensure idler receiver slides freely along the gallery. If not, file away surface rust, regrease and reassemble.
4. Remove belts.
5. Install new belts *note, alternator/fan belt does not have an idler, it requires the old fashioned 'loosen alternator' method*
6. Tighten idler adjusting bolts.
7. Re-torque pullet centre nuts.
8. Test drive, observing closely any belt slipping noise, engine temperature, air-conditioning temps and power-steering response.

NOTE: BFH and timber drift not required.

As a side note, it's interesting to know that once you lose the fan belt, you also lose the alternator. And once you lose the alternator, you also lose brake vacuum, clutch booster vacuum and engine shut-off vacuum.

Thanks everyone for the help, and good day!

- Dan

 

[cult45]

Well this is awkward..

Now the engine won't shut off. I traced all air/electrical lines from the alternator but can't seem to find anything unplugged or broken. Any thoughts..?

 

[cruiserdan]

The shutdown is a vacuum-actuated flapper.

 

[cult45]

The shutdown is a vacuum-actuated flapper.

Does it starve the engine into shutting down? And where is this mythical flapping device..

 

[Oldtoy74]

Hi cult, I just had my shut off issue last week, I found a vac line that was shot and had removed itself from pipe, this one is a shocker to find, I was going to explain where, but a photo is easier , look down here follow screw driver , that's where mine caused issues for week or so, before I had the chance to investigate ,

 

[Oldtoy74]

The bubble tin thing with the vac hose you can see is the flapper thingamebob, place fingers underneath and lift lever, this will starve the beast with air and shut down

 

[cult45]

Oldtoy thanks very much. I had a look around and can't seem to find the culprit, but a fair few of the lines are getting on a bit and so I'm considering replacing them all. Should be a piece of cake. Did you replace any of yours or just seal it up?

Also, upon seeing your name it hit me - I owe you PTO measurements. My apologies mate, the PTO is at my cousins house and I don't get around there much. Probably heading there this Monday if I'm not too late?

 

[Oldtoy74]

I have slowly replaced a few , but not of all of them, the fault I reckon is still around in there somewhere considering you had moved the alternator when playin with your ac pulley. Have you double checked your VSV that feeds the vacum shutter to turn off
I've got your number I'll give you a buzz and explain what measurement I need for the pto, I'm in no rush mate, all good