Quick wheel cylinders brake question (1 Viewer)

[SaskFJ40]

The old cylinders I had must have been from 1971 or something because the banjo fitting doesnt fit the new ones I have. With the 1978+ does the main 10mm brake line go directly into the cylinder? Or do I still need that banjo bolt fitting splitter thing in 10mm? Thanks

 

[73FJ40]

I believe banjo fittings on brakes were pre 1971 at least for the U.S. market.

No banjos on Sept 1971 - July 1980 OEM FJ40 rear brakes, US market.

 

[SaskFJ40]

Thanks! I couldnt check my downloaded FSM as our power has been out for 5 hours, cel still works though. Appreciate the help.

 

[jimmclarty]

I believe banjo fittings on brakes were pre 1971 at least for the U.S. market.

No banjos on Sept 1971 - July 1980 OEM FJ40 rear brakes, US market.

View attachment 2367785

View attachment 2367796

I'm also dealing with cylinders on my 1970 40. Are there four different cylinders or just two for the left and two for the right? I've read conflicting info. Also the pad doesn't fit the slot on the larger slot side for a few of mine. Should I grind them down or hammer?

 

[73FJ40]

@jimmclarty
Look for my post in this thread. There are four different wheel cylinders for the rear axle, at least for my 1973 FJ40.

Wheel Cylinders front

I just got new wheel cylinders in I ordered and wanted to double check that they sent me the right parts. These are for my front brakes on a '73 FJ40. The right wheel cylinders are both the same. They are different from the left wheel cylinders and the left wheel cylinders are both the same...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[Pighead]

Should I grind them down or hammer?

NO. Neither. It will all fit together nicely when the right parts are positioned correctly.

 

[SaskFJ40]

I'm also dealing with cylinders on my 1970 40. Are there four different cylinders or just two for the left and two for the right? I've read conflicting info. Also the pad doesn't fit the slot on the larger slot side for a few of mine. Should I grind them down or hammer?

Perhaps your shoes are on backwards?

 

[73FJ40]

@jimmclarty

In my limited experience, I can relate to your situation.

First: OEM brake shoes have a "wide" slot and a "narrow" slot. Aftermarket brake shoes that meet OEM standards also have wide and narrow slots.

OEM brake cylinders have wide and narrow slots on their ends. Aftermarket brake cylinders THAT MEET OEM STANDARDS also have wide and narrow slots.

This wide and narrow design is an indexing feature, in order to force the installer to place the shoes in the right orientation, since the wear material is offset to one end for braking performance.

Now, in my limited experience, major aftermarket FJ40 parts suppliers have supplied brake cylinders in which both slots are narrow. One of them, when I called them on it, told me to "grind down the [wide] slot to make the shoe fit." to which I replied, are you really telling me to defeat a Toyota safety feature to let your non-conforming parts work? A refund was in order.

So, for your situation, either find acceptable replacements, or, if time is of the essence, I would see if the wide-slotted screw from your old brake cylinders would fit in your new cylinders.

Good luck!

 

[AntFarm]

@SaskFJ40 did your original question get answered? Your rear brake setup for 1978 should look almost identical to my 1979. I'll send pics if you need them. Yes, the brake line fittings connect directly into the wheel cylinder(s). The connecting half-circle brake line goes up and over the axle which connects the two wheel cylinders together. No banjos on your year, unless you're playing some bluegrass!

 

[SaskFJ40]

Indeed it did, thank you very much. Appreciate the help

 

[Pighead]

@jimmclarty

I would see if the wide-slotted screw from your old brake cylinders would fit in your new cylinders.

This. I hadn't thought of that.
Also, an additional Pighead Tip...You have a jar of the Anti-Seize on your workbench? Good. Use a fair amount of that Anti-seize on the outside of your adjusters (where it fits into the cup of the cylinder). Use the Anti-Seize almost everywhere. On the threads of your adjusters. Makes adjusting much easier for the years to come.