quick garrett turbo question... opinions

[joshoisasleep]

How deep do you want to get into this? I'd do one probe in the manifold and call it done.

Well since he's such a nice guy it isn't going to cost me more money, so it's really just a matter of drilling holes right? Despite my apparent happy-go-lucky attitude towards engine mods, I'm a serious engine worrier and am constantly listening, stopping, opening the hood, worrying, etc. More instrumentation means less worrying!

However I'm not sure if the multiple probes is a go. He thinks there's not enough room in my manifold to position them from looking at photos.

here's some of his explanation to me about setting it up...

Great place for a simple clamp style in the exhaust loop. To put one in each exhaust manifold pipe would be difficult since there is no place for one before it reaches the main exhaust manifold.

... The standard element length is 3/4" which about how much sticks into the exhaust stream.

... It would be cool to have a probe on each cylinder but no room in your setup to install them. I guess you could remove the manifold and tap or weld on a boss for each cylinder. Look at the screw in thermocouples we have on our website too. With the meter you would just add a switch box and then you can switch between cylinders...

Does the 3/4" sound fine? What does he mean by a "boss"? I think the single probe may be the way to go considering complication + South America != fun

These are the parts he's recommended
86255 EGT/TIT Thermocouple
46150 EGT Meter

 

[cruiser_guy]

If I were you I'd get a "bung/boss" or whatever you want to call it, welded onto the loop off your stock manifold going to the turbo and put your pyrometer sensor right there and call it good.

If I were going to use multiple sensors I would be measuring temperatures of the air entering the engine AFTER being compressed by the turbo before I'd be messing with individual cylinder readings. With your flipped manifold the individual readings would not be accurate anyways as you don't have a separate path from each cylinder to the turbo.

 

[joshoisasleep]

If I were you I'd get a "bung/boss" or whatever you want to call it, welded onto the loop off your stock manifold going to the turbo and put your pyrometer sensor right there and call it good.

Don't I just drill a hole? Why do I need to weld anything anywhere? Not that that's a problem.

If I were going to use multiple sensors I would be measuring temperatures of the air entering the engine AFTER being compressed by the turbo before I'd be messing with individual cylinder readings.

Yeah I want that but that's way lower temp than my pyrometer will go down to right? So we're talking an extra instrument/gauge now instead of just a switch... Couldn't I just use like a household outside air temperature gauge or something like that?

 

[Tapage]

If you see on my 2H - 1HD-T fan comparision thread you will found that the generation of power ( even with low EGT ) make more heat ..

I solve ( or deal much better ) my issue swaping fan clutch and fan from a 1HZ ..

How much blades have your fan . ?

I found that the longer blades of the 1HZ / 1HD-T fan help a lot ! with the heat issue .. and now I can run much more fuel ..

 

[cruiser_guy]

Don't I just drill a hole? Why do I need to weld anything anywhere? Not that that's a problem.

There won't be enough "meat" to thread the probe into on the metal pipe unless they used welding elbows and even then I'd want a proper bung/boss whatever, to hold the probe securely.

Yeah I want that but that's way lower temp than my pyrometer will go down to right? So we're talking an extra instrument/gauge now instead of just a switch... Couldn't I just use like a household outside air temperature gauge or something like that?

I said IF I was going to measure more than one temperature that's what I'd do! I have not done that and at this point I don't intend to either. The air off the compressor will be in the area of 200F or so!

 

[Dougal]

If I were you I'd get a "bung/boss" or whatever you want to call it, welded onto the loop off your stock manifold going to the turbo and put your pyrometer sensor right there and call it good.

That's what I'd do too.
Being mild steel it'll weld much more easily than the cast manifold.

 

[BillyGHusk]

warning...minor hijack....

I am installing my pyro in the next week or two.....

I was going to drill and tap in the the manifold where all four cylinders dump. I thought that was the best place and I thought that I could drill and tap it with no problem....


Is this not the case?

Thanks,
Tim

 

[cruiser_guy]

I was going to drill and tap in the the manifold where all four cylinders dump. I thought that was the best place and I thought that I could drill and tap it with no problem....

Yes, you CAN drill and tap the manifold without issues. If the manifold is on the engine and you're not planning to remove it, I'd leave the engine running during the drill and tap procedure to blow out any filings.

 

[joshoisasleep]

Yes, you CAN drill and tap the manifold without issues. If the manifold is on the engine and you're not planning to remove it, I'd leave the engine running during the drill and tap procedure to blow out any filings.

Wow that's going to be loud (at least for me). Is this not the best place to do it in terms of accuracy of reading?

 

[BillyGHusk]

Yes, you CAN drill and tap the manifold without issues. If the manifold is on the engine and you're not planning to remove it, I'd leave the engine running during the drill and tap procedure to blow out any filings.

ok good. I will be removing the manifold to replace the gasket anyhow, as I have a leak at one the two in that area.

Thanks

Tim

 

[Otterav]

hey,
Its most likely the radiator. When Toyota designed the car they sized the components to work with each other. You added a turbocharger, which increased the exhaust back pressure as well as increased the power output. Both of these things increased the heat in the engine. Your cruiser was designed for the 3B at its original power output, the turbo and operating your cruiser in central america , gasp near the equator. You have 2 choices 1) reduce the heat load in the cruiser(lower the power, ie. remove the turbo) 2) increase heat rejection rate(more cooling capacity)(assuming your cooling system is operating correctly). My FJ/BJ mutation had the same heating issue and adding a triple pass, optima radiator solved the over heating issue.
Hola
eric
P.S. I turned my fuel screw out 3 1/2 turns and am pushing 15-18 psi.(even if Dougal says I can't)

 

[Dougal]

P.S. I turned my fuel screw out 3 1/2 turns and am pushing 15-18 psi.(even if Dougal says I can't)

It's interesting that other users of the Supra on the 3B don't reach 15psi boost till about 3000rpm (which you'd expect).
Yet with a very similar setup you're claiming the same 15psi boost arrives at 1900rpm.
IH8MUD.com Forum - FJ to BJ mutation?

hey i just put a toyota supra(3L gasser engine) turbo on my 3b bought a 13bt manifold from gscruiserparts.com so the turbo would bolt right in. It is awsome i get 5lbs boost at 1200rpm 10lbs boost at 2000 and at 3000 waste gate opens at 15lbs boost

IH8MUD.com Forum - school me in turbo tech for the 3b

How do you explain a difference this large?

 

[joshoisasleep]

Otterav that's encouraging. Do you have a pyro and if so what were your EGT numbers like?

Totally unrelated but kind of weird, a guy from your town just came up and started talking to me randomly here in Peru as you must have been typing that...


Hey another kind of quirk with my setup. When I'm warming up my truck there is a sort of "hump" in coolant temps where for a few seconds it raises up to about halfway on the gauge and then goes right back down to cool operating temp. It does this idling without any strain put on the engine... weird?

 

[gettocruiser]

sounds like your thermostat opening upon reaching temp. may be it's sticking closed?
good luck.

 

[joshoisasleep]

Hmmm could be but it's about a 1.5 month old thermostat that didn't appear to do this before the turbo install. I wonder if it's something along the lines of the turbo getting a little toasty right before the oil gets warmer and then the oil starts moving better and cools the turbo back down....?? As usual grasping at straws...

 

[cruiser_guy]

hey,
Its most likely the radiator. When Toyota designed the car they sized the components to work with each other. You added a turbocharger, which increased the exhaust back pressure as well as increased the power output. Both of these things increased the heat in the engine. Your cruiser was designed for the 3B at its original power output, the turbo and operating your cruiser in central america , gasp near the equator. You have 2 choices 1) reduce the heat load in the cruiser(lower the power, ie. remove the turbo) 2) increase heat rejection rate(more cooling capacity)(assuming your cooling system is operating correctly).

I have a BJ60 with a turbo (with water cooling), A/C and the OEM 4 core rad. My A/C is on almost all the time. I have no issues with overheating and I'm also way down south here in Guatemala City. If there is overheating issues I would look at cooling system problems. The factory 4 core rad is quite sufficient for the A/C and turbo. If you have a three core rad then I'd suggest swapping it out for a 4 core which is what Toyota did to these trucks when they added A/C.

 

[joshoisasleep]

Yeah but I think if I recall correctly that because my engine's an 81 my rad hose comes out from the other side (to the left looking at the truck) and I'd have to change my t-stat housing to put a newer rad on?? (At least a landcruiser one)

In any case I should flush the coolant I guess and replace it. Is there any special tricks or advice to cleaning out the cooling system? All my stuff is old and was never "restored" during the engine swap like most people do.

 

[cruiser_guy]

Yeah but I think if I recall correctly that because my engine's an 81 my rad hose comes out from the other side (to the left looking at the truck) and I'd have to change my t-stat housing to put a newer rad on?? (At least a landcruiser one)

In any case I should flush the coolant I guess and replace it. Is there any special tricks or advice to cleaning out the cooling system? All my stuff is old and was never "restored" during the engine swap like most people do.

Is your rad the original 3 core rad or is it a 4 core from an FJ62? You can tell by removing the rad cap and counting the cores you can see. Alternatively, a 4 core rad fills the space on the tanks and a three core rad has a little room left on the rear edge of the tanks.

If you have a 3 core you should upgrade to a 4 core or have yours recored to a 4 core. The 3 core is not sufficient if you have A/C and when you add more to it it gets even worse.

 

[wesintl]

How do you explain a difference this large?

The fuel setting... I can boost 25+ and see #'s that are greater than his with a T3. I can also see almost nothing with the fuel way back. I played with my fuel til I got what I feel is optimal at about 15psi.

 

[Dougal]

The fuel setting... I can boost 25+ and see #'s that are greater than his with a T3. I can also see almost nothing with the fuel way back. I played with my fuel til I got what I feel is optimal at about 15psi.

It does make a difference I agree, but you can't use fuel to "wake up" a turbo that large without getting into dangerous EGT levels.

Maybe he is on the way to a meltdown and doesn't know it.