Quick brake swap question

[GregFrench]

He all. I am in the middle of a brake swap. Taking the discs off a 62 for my 40. I have the 62 all disassembled and ready to put in. I haven't started taking the 40 apart yet because it is my DD and I am waiting on seals from Kurt.

Anyway, in my waiting I got thinking. Why do I have to keep disassembling once I get to the point where the the axle is out? To me, it makes sense that I could keep the old knuckle and steering arms in, and just put in the new parts, since all I really need is the brake assy. This would keep the pre-load and shims unchanged, and also keep me from having to take of those F-ing steering arms!

I don't have my 40 here to look at and compare housings, so they may be different? I don't know.

So...is there a reason that I can't do this?

Thanks

 

[Dieseler]

Dont you have to pull the knuckles to change out the seals?

 

[GregFrench]

Which seals? This is my first time doing this, and I am doing it by myself by following the directions in faq. It just seems like a lot of unnecessary extra work...unless I am missing or don't quite understand something.

What I am saying is would it be advisable to stop at post #5 on the following link, then put it all back together with the new brakes.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-seri...t-axle-disc-brake-conversion-dummies-faq.html

or is there a reason you would need to continue the teardown?

thanks

 

[Rigger]

I'm confused. You are putting FJ62 disc brakes on to a 40 series that already has disc brakes?

 

[tucker74]

I'm not totally sure since I've never seen the non-us post-'79 drum knuckles, but I wouldn't be surprised if they are the same as '79+ 40/60/mini large pattern knuckles. In that case I would just disassemble to the knuckle, clean out all the grease, replace the inner axle seal, and put it all back together. If they are the small pattern knuckles, I would go to the trouble to replace (I've broken one of those myself).

The only other seals you're going to get to by pulling the knuckle are the felts/o-ring on the back.

Let us know what you find!

Tucker

 

[Vicm]

He all. I am in the middle of a brake swap. Taking the discs off a 62 for my 40. I have the 62 all disassembled and ready to put in. I haven't started taking the 40 apart yet because it is my DD and I am waiting on seals from Kurt.

Anyway, in my waiting I got thinking. Why do I have to keep disassembling once I get to the point where the the axle is out? To me, it makes sense that I could keep the old knuckle and steering arms in, and just put in the new parts, since all I really need is the brake assy. This would keep the pre-load and shims unchanged, and also keep me from having to take of those F-ing steering arms!

I don't have my 40 here to look at and compare housings, so they may be different? I don't know.

So...is there a reason that I can't do this?

Thanks

I have never seen any drum brake knuckles that have ears for bolting the brake calipers.
so you need more than just brake parts to covert from drums to discs.
So what 40 are you working on? type of existing brakes?
Give more info ,you will get better feed back.

 

[tucker74]

I have never seen any drum brake knuckles that have ears for bolting the brake calipers.
so you need more than just brake parts to covert from drums to discs.
So what 40 are you working on? type of existing brakes?
Give more info ,you will get better feed back.

Good point on the ears - though I don't know what they did on these non-us trucks when they went to the large pattern knuckles. I was going by the '81 HJ47 in his signature, which would make since for what he is saying ...

Tucker

 

[GregFrench]

Sorry..It's my Troopie. 1981 HJ47. Australian spec. Still has drums.
Didn't know about the disc brake caliper mounts. That makes sense now, and I see why the need to teat it all the way down. Thanks.

Now for the tough question... Is there a better way to get that effing steering arm off? I have been trying for 2 days now. the other side took me a night, and I finally got it. This side is being a beeotch. I have cleaned, degreased, and pb blasted the hell out of it and I still can't get any of the cone washers out.

 

[tucker74]

Now for the tough question... Is there a better way to get that effing steering arm off? I have been trying for 2 days now. the other side took me a night, and I finally got it. This side is being a beeotch. I have cleaned, degreased, and pb blasted the hell out of it and I still can't get any of the cone washers out.

Couple of tricks - *carefully* tap on the end of the studs with a hammer (don't mangle threads), then tap on the washers with a drift, then back to the studs. Sometimes brass doesn't work and you have to use a steel drift on the cone washers. Hammer from the top/bottom of the washer, then the sides if you can get at the lip.

Tucker

 

[GregFrench]

Tried all that. Still stuck. And what would happen if I did happen to mess up the threads?

 

[tucker74]

Tried all that. Still stuck. And what would happen if I did happen to mess up the threads?

You can get new ones from Mr T as well ... since you'll be ordering inner clips anyway Sometimes hitting the bottom of the steering arm a couple of times with a BFH helps pop them out as well. Then once the steering arms are off, you can put a big drift down through the bell to the bottom cap and drive it off.

Tucker

** Oh ya ... you've got new knuckles anyway so shouldn't matter if you mangled them **

 

[GregFrench]

Both bottom ones came off clean and easy. Still have 3 cane washers I can't get loose on one steering arm.

 

[Vicm]

Both bottom ones came off clean and easy. Still have 3 cane washers I can't get loose on one steering arm.

You can remove the bottom bearing by removing the lower cap from the knuckle,then rotate the knuckle and pull it out with the arm attatched, then you can seperate the the arm from the knucle.
Do you have to use the 62 arms when you put the 62 knuckles on?

 

[Aussie 25]

To get the arm off

Hi , The easy to get the arm off. Put the bottom back on , and belt the arm with a big hammer up and down, when they lift put a chisel ow wegde under the arm and the top of the nuckle and hit again, as the lift put bigger wedge. If you damage a stud, they unscrew, get one out of old nuckle. When you have had a bit of practice it takes about 6 hours to fully rebuild botgh sides. Cheers.

 

[GregFrench]

Ok. So just keep plugging along at it, then...

 

[GregFrench]

Do you have to use the 62 arms when you put the 62 knuckles on?

That's a good question. I think they are slightly different, so I would most likely be using the one from my truck instead of this one from the donor. Anybody know for sure? Does this mess up my pre load?

 

[Aussie 25]

Not sure about the arms, look in TOYDIY.COM/PARTS and compair the two modles. You will have to use the 62 housings for the disc callipers to fit. Pre loads you have to reset every time you rebuild the frount end. The preload is around 5lbs. When you fit the 62 housing on your diff tighten bottom plate, dont fit cone washers, tighten top nuts with flat washers onley. [with balls ruber and felt seals sitting on ball onley not fitted] Hook scales in hole on arm you are trying to get out now and pull. when moving if around 4 to 6 lbs its good. If to tight add shum. if to loose remove shim. When pre load is wright remove 2 top nuts , fit those lovley cone washwes tighten then fit other 2. Have fun. Cheers.

 

[Alaska40]

That's a good question. I think they are slightly different, so I would most likely be using the one from my truck instead of this one from the donor. Anybody know for sure? Does this mess up my pre load?

The arms use different tie rod ends. If you have the donor 62 you can shorten those tie rods and use the knuckles, arms and tie rods. The tie rods are also bigger on the 62 so you can't just swap the ends either, it's all or nothing.

 

[zebrabeefj40]

One of the ways I've used to get the cone washers to release is to smack the side of the arm next to the cone washer. Usually a couple good shots there will get the washers moving. Usually fast enough to launch off the stud; so leave the nut a couple of turns on the stud. That will also prevent accidental thread damage on the studs. Yes, it will ding the side of the arm a bit. No, it won't hurt the functionality at all.

Another method is to grind a chisel down until it is just wide enough to fit in the split in the cone washer. Then drive the chisel point into the split. Usually the cone washer will try to spead at the split which drives it up and out of the steering arm.

Good luck!
Nick