crushers said:EXCEPT, the t/case end is studs so you have to remove the pinion end first...
you don't have to, it's easier this way though... just remove the T case end, compress the slip yoke and it should come off
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crushers said:EXCEPT, the t/case end is studs so you have to remove the pinion end first...
lumpy70 said:Isn't it better not to separate the slip yoke from the rest of the shaft as it could possibly be balanced in that configurateion?
Mark both pieces first, just to be sure. My Front drivesahft was balanced, it sort of slipped apart when I had it off by accicent, now I'm out of balance again.
Lots of hum and grrrrrrr when I've got the hubs locked.
Craig.
crushers said:maybe but you did not do any work on your own till 4 years ago...
QUOTE]
Yeow, Zing!
I started doing my own welding 4 years ago, true... It's also true that haveing nothing more than a dirt driveway and at the time it being my only transport and daily driver I definately farmed out select work to you and Modern to minimize downtime, but to say I did not do any of my own work is not at all true.
Peter Straub
Behemoth60 said:It's also true that haveing nothing more than a dirt driveway and at the time it being my only transport and daily driver I definately farmed out select work to you and Modern to minimize downtime, but to say I did not do any of my own work is not at all true.
Peter Straub
lowenbrau said:Wayne, you've been workling on lifted rigs too long. On stock height rigs the shafts easily compresses enough to clear the studs at the t-case.
I'm in big trouble because I couldn't drain Charla's BJ73 before she went up north and it froze up on a -30C night.