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crushers said:
EXCEPT, the t/case end is studs so you have to remove the pinion end first...

you don't have to, it's easier this way though... just remove the T case end, compress the slip yoke and it should come off
 
Isn't it better not to separate the slip yoke from the rest of the shaft as it could possibly be balanced in that configurateion?

Mark both pieces first, just to be sure. My Front drivesahft was balanced, it sort of slipped apart when I had it off by accicent, now I'm out of balance again.

Lots of hum and grrrrrrr when I've got the hubs locked.

Craig.
 
lumpy70 said:
Isn't it better not to separate the slip yoke from the rest of the shaft as it could possibly be balanced in that configurateion?

Mark both pieces first, just to be sure. My Front drivesahft was balanced, it sort of slipped apart when I had it off by accicent, now I'm out of balance again.

Lots of hum and grrrrrrr when I've got the hubs locked.

Craig.


i never said anything about separating the yokes, i said you compress them... push the ends together, not pull them apart...

but yeah mark em with paint if you going to separate them.
 
Well, I'm not going to touch them right now in any case. It would seem the worst of the vibration disappeared with the tune-up. Finally got my hands on a fuel filter, so that's the final project before Christmas.
 
fill the new filter with fresh diesel bfore installing this helps in the bleeding of the system later. there is a bleeder on the side of the injection pump as well to help get any air out.
if in doubt feel free to ask...
cheers
Wayne
 
crushers said:
maybe but you did not do any work on your own till 4 years ago...
QUOTE]

Yeow, Zing!

I started doing my own welding 4 years ago, true... It's also true that haveing nothing more than a dirt driveway and at the time it being my only transport and daily driver I definately farmed out select work to you and Modern to minimize downtime, but to say I did not do any of my own work is not at all true.

Peter Straub
 
Behemoth60 said:
It's also true that haveing nothing more than a dirt driveway and at the time it being my only transport and daily driver I definately farmed out select work to you and Modern to minimize downtime, but to say I did not do any of my own work is not at all true.

Peter Straub

dirt driveway check

only form of transport... check.

it's the only way to learn to do your own work on a vehicle the right way first time
 
Wayne, you've been workling on lifted rigs too long. On stock height rigs the shafts easily compresses enough to clear the studs at the t-case.

As far as this thread goes. How the heck do you actually drain that seperator in that location? I'm in big trouble because I couldn't drain Charla's BJ73 before she went up north and it froze up on a -30C night. To make matters worse I mounted her Webasto right beside it as this was the only space under the hood and now its a total pain to get at either the seperator or to drop a new oil filter into place. I'll have to rethink the whole setup at Christmas when she is in town.
 
lowenbrau said:
Wayne, you've been workling on lifted rigs too long. On stock height rigs the shafts easily compresses enough to clear the studs at the t-case.

I'm in big trouble because I couldn't drain Charla's BJ73 before she went up north and it froze up on a -30C night.

it has been a while, i will have to give that a try on the next rig that is in the shop.

man i wouldn't want to be you. Charla is a nice girl but being stranded in the cold could put a "chill" in the air for christmas...

;^)
 
should be a bung on the bottom of it... empty into a container (riggghhhtt, that's what i do) and then screw bung back on (hope yours is like that, mine is)... shouldn't need to prime it, but if it doesn't start afterwards, prime the sucker
 

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