Question on Brakes

[sc40]

The bake pad and rotors are worn out on the FZJ-80, 1994. I am planning on replacing both pads and rotors, should I purchase MAN-A-FRe slotted and drilled, or OEM or aftermarket? Is there a noticable difference in performance?

Same question on brake pads

 

[OGBeno]

What's up man...

Most on these boards have different opinions on questions like this, especially based on contextual factors--what type of driving do you mainly do, do you wheel, are you heavy ont he brake, etc.

Most of the old-schoolers here will tell ya stick with OEM rotors and upgrade the brake pads to the 100-series pads which fit by taking the brake pad shims out (only on the front--gotta stick with the 80 pads for the rear).

I doubt after-market stuff will give you what the OEM can give you, but that is just a speculation on my part based on research I've done by mining the archives.

best.
-onur
Akron, OH

 

[wb1948]

Go OEM and go 100-series. Slotted and Drilled are for fancy boys. Also, if you want to improve breaking(and safety) swap stainless steel brake lines in.

 

[turbocruiser]

Well, fancy bling boy chimes in, get the slotted and drilled DBA rotors and the PBR pads, I've said it before and I'll say it again, my rig consistently outstops every other stock 80 I've driven, and that's without even throwing it in reverse!!! If that's bling, (I dont consider things that actually work bling) than bling me up Scotty!

Ohh, I agree with the stainless steel lines, got mine from Slee, super high quality, as with all Slee products. HTH.

 

[Romer]

OEM rotors, oem 100 pads in the fromt and 80 pads in the back. Some one who loves the M1 rifle told me that 100 series pads would not work in the back.

CDan will give you the best OEM price.

 

[Land Speeder]

Just replaced my axle to caliper rubber lines with OEM since no one else makes these for my 80 (91 FJ80) but I did just get in the mail Man-A-Fre frame to axle stainless lines that are 3" longer. Can't wait to put those puppies on and feel the difference.
I want to try both the PBR pads but also 100 series pads, so should I try the PBR for 100 series ceramic pads? anyone running these? Can they be adapted like the OEM 100 series pads?

 

[Animal]

The consensus here will be to use OEM pads and rotors, I on the other hand chose the EBay aftermarket route. I purchased a complete set of rotors, front and back, for $120 delivered to my door (North Pole, Alaska). I purchased a set of 100 series pads for the front for $22, $18 for 80 series rears for a total of $160. I can do two complete changes if needed for less than one OEM change. I now have 7,000 miles on the rotor and pad change, they work just as good as the OEM stuff did.

 

[Romer]

You must not have priced them through Cdan. I think I paid less for OEM rotors, I ma y be wrong though. And no shipping charges for orders over $100

 

[MLX450]

I know...i know..... not OEM but don't they look cool ... DBA XS cross/slotted rotors..... when you do your birf .... silp these babies in.....

 

[Biff]

I just changed my rotors and pads to OEM with 100 pads. The slotted/drilled rotors look purty but when you go offroad you will get rocks stuck in those holes. Would'nt risk it.

 

[Animal]

You must not have priced them through Cdan. I think I paid less for OEM rotors, I ma y be wrong though. And no shipping charges for orders over $100

So you paid less than $120 for all 4 OEM rotors? Up here they wanted $100 eash for a total of $400.

 

[Darwood]

Yeah OEM will run ya around $400 for all the rotors. Even from Dan the man. Ask me how I know

 

[ultimauk]

The consensus here will be to use OEM pads and rotors, I on the other hand chose the EBay aftermarket route. I purchased a complete set of rotors, front and back, for $120 delivered to my door (North Pole, Alaska). I purchased a set of 100 series pads for the front for $22, $18 for 80 series rears for a total of $160. I can do two complete changes if needed for less than one OEM change. I now have 7,000 miles on the rotor and pad change, they work just as good as the OEM stuff did.

Let me guess JT Outfitters?

I have 30,000 miles on discs and pads right now. The discs look fine but I need to replace the pads.

Over all not too bad for ~$80 for the front discs and pads, and they seem to operate just fine at normal speeds.

 

[Bear80]

I just changed my rotors and pads to OEM with 100 pads. The slotted/drilled rotors look purty but when you go offroad you will get rocks stuck in those holes. Would'nt risk it.

I second that, you WILL tear up pads if you get into sand, or such. If you really feel that the cost to beneft ratio is no object, then spend the money on sloted only rotors, 100 series ceramic pads and s. steel lines.

So here is my 2 cents. Order rotors from Marlin Crawler they are like $60 each, get Bosch ceramic pads or NAPA ceramic pads and be happy with the money you saved.

 

[turbocruiser]

I second that, you WILL tear up pads if you get into sand, or such. If you really feel that the cost to beneft ratio is no object, then spend the money on sloted only rotors, 100 series ceramic pads and s. steel lines.

I'll respectfully disagree, and this is real world not speculation, but i've had all four of my wheels BURIED in sand, gritty gravely mud, small granite stones, and most recently a mix of all the above. It was so severe recently that the mud totally plugged all the holes in all the rotors.

When I looked at the pads they were fine. When I looked at the rotors they were fine. So, I'm just saying that so far I have stupidly pushed the limits of the rotors in terms of spinning them through this crap over and over and over and never have had a problem. I hope I never do yet for a worry wart like myself, I just do not worry with this anymore.

BTW, even with the rotors and pads hand cleaned but the holes still evenly plugged with mud (on purpose) there was definitely deminished braking ... sort of a floating effect found on the pedal almost like the holes allow the air between the rotor and pad to travel through the rotor as opposed to pushing back on the pad. Not enough to worry with but impressive that the pads bite so fast when those holes are clear and that they hesitate or levitate just momentarily when the holes are plugged even. Hard to describe, and yes it is indeed entirely possible that what i'm feeling is simply trace amounts of mud that the pads pull from the holes but again this was after a hundred miles of driving with the pads scraping off all excess mud, two or three washings with hose to get the mud around the calipers off, removing the wheels and washing with water, removing the pads and cleaning the faces, etc. So, i'm pretty sure the mud that is clogging the holes is dimpled in or perfectly surfaced with the face of the rotor and therefore no longer laying itself over the rotor.

Anyways, who knows, after saying all that, just for more peace of mind, i think next time around i'll just get the slotted-only DBA's and the high performance PBR's (100 series up front, 80 in back), HTH.

 

[Romer]

So you paid less than $120 for all 4 OEM rotors? Up here they wanted $100 eash for a total of $400.

Ask Cdan, my memory is failing, but I think it was $90 for the fronts. I thought your post said a pair or just the fronts.

 

[Land Speeder]

Let me guess JT Outfitters?

I have 30,000 miles on discs and pads right now. The discs look fine but I need to replace the pads.

Over all not too bad for ~$80 for the front discs and pads, and they seem to operate just fine at normal speeds.

Hmm, I can't make up my mind about "ebay-outfitters", I mean the rotors are low priced, but once you add shipping it's only $10 cheaper than OEM rotors from the local dealer. So why not stick with OEM rotors for that margin?
30K miles do not lie though, and that's why I'm torn. Thanks for the info becuase the quality of those rotors/pads have been a question I've wondered for quite sometime now. I feel more comfortable now if I go the route of "ebay-outfitters"

 

[fzj80kidpen]

When it comes to brakes I like Bendix.
I may have missed it but why are you replacing?
I thought mine were done.
Bought new and had one hand when doing the front axle.
Took a really close look and decided they were good.
When I put it all back together took my time to clean both sides of the rotor with brake cleaner.
Bleed the brake fluid, put on bendix pads and guess what.
No more vibration.
Its been 30K miles and no problems.
My $.02.
I can think of alot of other stuff to buy with that $$$$$$.

 

[sc40]

i am replaceing due to the fact that my brother drove it for a week and in that week my worn brake pads ate into the rotors........... sooo now i need to replace it all. on the people useing 100 pads, do you have any vibrations, well any more than useing 80 pads?

 

[ultimauk]

Hmm, I can't make up my mind about "ebay-outfitters", I mean the rotors are low priced, but once you add shipping it's only $10 cheaper than OEM rotors from the local dealer. So why not stick with OEM rotors for that margin?
30K miles do not lie though, and that's why I'm torn. Thanks for the info becuase the quality of those rotors/pads have been a question I've wondered for quite sometime now. I feel more comfortable now if I go the route of "ebay-outfitters"

Every now and then you'll see the JT Outfitter landcruiser brake special on ebay and that was $80 for 2 front disks and 2 front brake pads sets.

That's more like $200 cheaper than OME.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7981411925&category=33564