Pz engine (2 Viewers)

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These poly bushings, especially OME get brittle over the years. The red grease goes hard and generally is crap
but I do mine every year. Never thought or knew to use anything else. I'll send email and ask. Lithium seems
a bit light to me?
 
Price at HomeDepot here in US. Good god! $229. I like they link it to the Lucas Red N Tacky that I think a lot of us use. But the Lincoln Electric electric grease gun is $156 Canadian at Lordco so if a person can get any kind of account reduction it’s a no brainer. Lincoln Electric wins this one. The Milwaukee is 7.7 lbs without battery! Too much.
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Price at HomeDepot here in US. Good god! $229. I like they link it to the Lucas Red N Tacky that I think a lot of us use. But the Lincoln Electric electric grease gun is $156 Canadian at Lordco so if a person can get any kind of account reduction it’s a no brainer. Lincoln Electric wins this one. The Milwaukee is 7.7 lbs without battery! Too much. View attachment 3750297
For the amount I use it the cheap no name one I have is fine... If I used it every day then a nice name brand is probably worth it, but realistically I use it a few times a year and just do everything...
 
The air powered grease guns are pretty cheap. I could see trying that. I don't think I'd fork out even 150 for an electric one.

Most of my grease points are just one or two shots anyway

Neighbour had a couple crane trucks so I can see why he got the milwaukee.
 
I got to admit, I have a muscle separation in my right shoulder so I have issues now with the constant triggering the grease
gun, among other actions. So I need assistance. Never thought of air driven. Maybe that Lincoln Electric is air driven? Scott
has one so I've asked him about it.
 
These poly bushings, especially OME get brittle over the years. The red grease goes hard and generally is crap
but I do mine every year. Never thought or knew to use anything else. I'll send email and ask. Lithium seems
a bit light to me?

To be honest, now I'm thinking about it, it's possible the warning said "synthetic" and not lithium.

Been a while since I saw it...I'll have to check. Either way, non petroleum tho.

I have some yellow lithium that's pretty thick, but between my grease guns, I know the red and tacky is in one, but I don't have a clue whats in the other 2.

I think one came with the house, and the other from my dad. Which means IF he bought it, it's the cheapest s*** he could find, and really old because I'm not sure he's ever lubed anything in his freaking life :lol:
 
Lost the cable off the side and snapped off the shear pin. But of a pain to get to.

Read online about folks upgrading them with a bolt etc, have sort of mixed feelings, obviously would rather replace a shear pin than the winch... Anyone with personal experience / suggestions for what size to replace it with or a suggested rating?

Stock looks like 5mm steel pin?
 

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I'd probably just get a few regular shear pins. Maybe some tractor pto ones that'd fit and be cheaper than whatever Toyota charges...

Wire off the side is probably a rare occurrence.

Could maybe cut 50 feet off to get it deeper in the drum if it seems like it's gonna be prone to happen a lot?
 
Looks like that shear pin did its job to perfection. I agree with seapotato just try to find a few to keep in glovebox. That looks like 150’ of wire there? What were you doing when it happened?
 
Yep agreed it did what it was supposed to. Just when i searched for part numbers I found lots of people replacing them.

It's in a quite inconvenient spot, directly on the back of the winch, which would be rather difficult to get to if properly stuck yourself. I had to pull the winch to get access to remove it.

As for what I was doing, pulling out a stuck forklift... Approx 4600kg stuck up to the axles...

Pull was a little off center and I didn't notice the cable had built up and popped off the winch
 
It's in a quite inconvenient spot, directly on the back of the winch, which would be rather difficult to get to if properly stuck yourself. I had to pull the winch to get access to remove it.
You might be able to monkey with your linkages and have the shear pin at a different ujoint.

Although under the truck might not easier to get to :lol:
 
Lol, I have a kit sitting on my bench right now, that'll be me in a week. 😒
Ya I've got a little checklist to fix thanks to the inspection system here....

Front brakes was one, which is my own fault I started rebuilding before the wedding then got busy with other things so I only had new brakes on one side... Fail for uneven brakes 🤣

Have a Muffler to fix also, and rear brakes had one siezed wheel cylinder so that's already done...
 
Ya I've got a little checklist to fix thanks to the inspection system here....

Front brakes was one, which is my own fault I started rebuilding before the wedding then got busy with other things so I only had new brakes on one side... Fail for uneven brakes 🤣

Have a Muffler to fix also, and rear brakes had one siezed wheel cylinder so that's already done...
Yeah i did my tie rods, added caster shims and new brakes, then had death wobble above 70.

Turns out my passenger side trunnions were rather ****ed.

I cheated and removed a couple shims to tighten them up, which is skeezy as ****, but it worked so well, it makes me wonder how many guys have done it but not admitted it 😂:hillbilly:
 
Not sure how much used stuff is around there where you are. The new electronic units do TIG & Mig and even calculate the power for you. Crazy. At the least get a 240V unit would be my suggestion.
 
Not sure how much used stuff is around there where you are. The new electronic units do TIG & Mig and even calculate the power for you. Crazy. At the least get a 240V unit would be my suggestion.
Ya, been watching the auctions for a cheap but good one, something like my old Miller 212.

Here everything is 220v, if you get a bigger one it's 400v...

To be fair this little one actually gets decent penetration on fairly heavy steel. It can pretty happily do 5mm steel in a single pass... Just not quickly
 

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