Pyrometer wich one?

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Gold Boy said:
A freind told me that they used to use pyro gauges on semi trucks as away of knowing when to gear down...

You probally know this any way ah?:)GB


Right. As I tried to explain above temps go up as engine load goes up so in practice the gauge will begin to read higher as a vehicle begins to climb a hill in the gear used to maintain cruise speed before the hill. So watching the gauge a driver can select a maximum temp level in that gear and downshift when it approaches. The downshift will lessen the engine loading and the temp will go down. As the hill continues to climb the process can repeat until a gear low enough to make the crest without lugging the engine is found.

It's actually much easier than I'm able to make it sound. :confused:
 
masteryota said:
I've read a lot about 3b overheating and how much the stock heat gauges are crap. I've also read a lot on this forum that the add of a pyrometer is a must.
Therefor, before I go out there on my own looking for a pyrometer, wich one is the best?
I guess I'd mount it right under the radio with additional switches I could install later on.
Wich one do you suggest I go out for, and where could I get it?
On the internet perhaps?
Any websites anything would help.
Thank you
Matt


I run Autometer gauges, I have tried others but always come back to autometer gauges. Here are a few things to look for even with autometere guages. Buying the multiguage cheap pack (yup autometere does have those) you are wasting your money this is the cheap line and they are not that great. For the most part you get what you pay for with gauges. Depending on if you are running 24v or 12v you should check to see witch pyro you are buying there are some that still require 12 volts to run the guage on the pyro and others do not require 12v, I have found that ones that do require 12 for the pyro are more responsive and seem to be a little more accurate. I also make sure to look at the face of the guage and range it works in, there is no point in getting a boost gauge that go all the way to 50lbs when you will not go past 15lbs, better off to get one that goes to 20 or 25 that way the increments are easier to see and more detailed for your application. The same is true for temp gauge, on the 3B or any diesel you are going to be working in the 170-240 range where a gasser would be more 165-220 (just and example here) so get the gauge accordingly. Oil pressure is the same for 3B you want something that will go low as well as high maybe 10lbs up to 80lbs. Lastely my advice would be don't go cheap on aftermarket gauges spend a little extra if you can and buy the better gauges :)

I buy my gauges off the internet, you can shop around and find a slight difference in price but stick with a company you feel comfortable with, even if they are few bucks higher.

Just my 2 cents.

Cheers,

Michael
 
This one ..

http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=/egnsearch.asp&N=400267

vdo-310953.jpg
 
But... onestly guys.

OK, pyro is a must.

But I can't belive a good Cruiser with a good mech temp gauge and a good mech oil press and a well maintain overall mechanic and a weekly fluid verification and, and... "realy" need a pyro.

OK, with a turbo, ... but without ?

Maybe I'm wroug ? Is I'm wrong.




... and meaby I'm in the wroung thread :) !!
 
David*BJ70 said:
Oups... désolé Matt. Je ne l'ai pas du tout ! :doh:

You won Greg ! :)

No winning intended or required...percieved or real. I know the value of not always paying the least, when there is value added. It has been a hard won lesson with me, over the last 8 years. Simply posted so you have some comparisions when you go to price the same item where you are.

Sometimes regional differences are substancial...

Regards

gb
 
David*BJ70 said:
But I can't belive a good Cruiser with a good mech temp gauge and a good mech oil press and a well maintain overall mechanic and a weekly fluid verification and, and... "realy" need a pyro.

OK, with a turbo, ... but without ?!!

It would be a good idea with a naturally aspirated diesel as well. Consider the effect of altitude. Not all older diesels have altitude compensaters, and it would be a good double check for those that do.

hth's

gb
 
a pyro reacts much quicker than an elec water gauge, you can litteraly be i the 1200F for minutes before the water gauge even moves...
damage could already been done...
cheers
 
my engine was very under fueled for a long time barely made most hills. Not sure why it was that way. the wires had been touched before(safety wire on fuel screw). lead missing or cut off

so in this under fueled condition I feel a pyro is not needed. Now I adjusted slightly and have lots of power. I also at this time installed a pyro to see what was happening. As I could not get any smoke to judge. too cold -25 at that time.....

Now having the fuel turned up, I watch the pyro on long hills, sometimes I have to back off on the throttle. But it's definately worth it. The added power is very noticeable.

I feel if you got larger tires and live at higher altitudes then even if you don't touch the fuel adjustment then you need a pyro.

but for us that want to tune the engine to optimum performance staying under 1250 we need the pyro.

if your fuel screw has been tampered with and does not have the lead pressed on witness marks, then you need a pyro. If you absulutely know your engine is at toyota stock fuel adjustment and you have stock size tires and live at normal altitudes, you do not need a pyro.

thats my OP
 
The reason I asked about pyro is mainly because I had heard of them a lot in here.
And then something strange happened one day.
I was heading back home on a 30 km ride at 90km/h.
Gas tank was half full and the fuel gauge showed exactly that.
Then is starts going up until it reaches the top half, I'm like WOOHOO! Free Diesel!! :D
Then look at my temp gauge and I'm like :doh: troubles!
The needle had gone up on that one too.
So I can live with the gas gauges going up or not being tooooo accurate, but the heat gauges? Can't afford an engine rebuild if I can save it for a few hundred $$
BTW : Anyone had this crazy problem?!

Thanks again everyone
Matt
 
yep, that is a typical problem. most guys freak when it happens, i know i did when it first happened to me. i run auto meter temp gauge as well as pyro and boost. on the HJ,BJ i recommend these to my customers and on the HDJ81 i recommend the pyro, boost and mech oil since thier down fall is the bearings...
cheers
 
mechnical gauges are really nice, it is cool to actually know whats going on!
 
i find they are a great relief as back up for the factory ones... especialy if we know the particular concern of a certain engine...
 
brownbear said:
If you absulutely know your engine is at toyota stock fuel adjustment and you have stock size tires and live at normal altitudes, you do not need a pyro.

thats my OP

That described my truck exactly when I dropped a precup!! The wire is still on my fuelpump and with the turbo I can reach 1200-1250 on the pyro preturbo.
 
I thought if you have a proper Pyro, you can read more fast and accurate your engine temp, in this line, in my HJ-60 I have a pyro, oil press and when I have a Turbo ( I hope soon .. ! :D ) one boost meter.

My idea in this issue is, if you have your engine fine, and your diesel pump stay in original setup you can drive safe and unworried about EGT. But in most cases here ( ok ok ok ok me ) can live with a stock diesel pump .. !
 
Tapage said:
My idea in this issue is, if you have your engine fine, and your diesel pump stay in original setup you can drive safe and unworried about EGT. But in most cases here ( ok ok ok ok me ) can live with a stock diesel pump .. !

In most cases yes. But it depends where your pump was set in the factory tolerances. Mine is obviously set richer than most.
 
BTW, interesting tidbit:
on the autometer pyro kit the instructions read "install probe 2" below the turbo exhaust adapter" or something to that effect...
in other words it is recommended by the manufacturer to install POST turbo.
cheers
 

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