PWR button and rear main seal: Any relation?

[Altaf]

PWR button and rear main seal: Any relation? (MORE DRAMA)

Took my truck for 90k service to my mechanic and he noticed a small oil leak in the rear main seal / oil pan area. I have a warranty on the truck and took it to the Lex dealer to get the leak fixed (they supposedly replaced the rear main seal back in March). The dealer again replaced the rear main seal under warranty, but I now notice that the PWR button no longer works. The ECT PWR dash light does not come on and there is no difference in shift points under normal throttle. I know my PWR mode was working (the light and mechanically) before I took it to the dealership because I have been driving in PWR mode to calculate the MPG difference.

Is it possible that during the process of replacing the rear main seal, the mechanic could have done something to affect the PWR function, or is this just a coincidence??? Also the 2nd STRT light does not work, but I can't remember using it before. I did a search and found that some people have had the PWR light fuse.

 

[IdahoDoug]

Gunna,

So, you've got a warranty and a dealer that worked on it and you've got a problem stemming from that work. Maybe I'm simplifying things, but I'd call the dealer and take it back.

DougM

 

[Altaf]

Definitely going to do that Doug. Just want to get some of your expert opinions before walking into the dealership. Knowledge is power.

 

[cruiserdan]

It probably wasn't the rear main to begin with. I bet it was the pan arch and they did not remove the seal retainer and just installed a new seal. If they did not remove the retainer this time it will likely still leak. Watch it closely.

As far as the power deal, it is possible that something is un-plugged or the like.

I would certainly take it back and I would inquire (diplomaticly, of course) if they also removed the seal retainer. 1FZ's leak A lOT more often from the arch than from the main.



D-

 

[Koffer]

If they pulled the console they my have forgot to plug the switch back in (guess how I know )

 

[landtoy80]

It probably wasn't the rear main to begin with. I bet it was the pan arch and they did not remove the seal retainer and just installed a new seal. If they did not remove the retainer this time it will likely still leak. Watch it closely.




D-

Ask them if they removed the retainer this time? If they didn't make a note of it as it might leak again. When I replaced my seal wtithout removing the retainer, the oil started leaking the first day.

 

[wob]

If they pulled the console they my have forgot to plug the switch back in (guess how I know )

Ding, ding. We have a winner! Unscrew the console, and hook the connections back up. It takes about two minutes.

 

[Doc]

The only problem with the console theory is: why would they be in the dash when the truck was in for an oil leak?

 

[cruiserdan]

In order to remove the transmission the transfer lever needs to be disconnected from the top of the transmission case. This operation requires removal of the center console and some other bits.

 

[Altaf]

Ok, so the PWR function not working is caused by a connection not being restored. Is there also a connection for the 2ND gear button in the same area?

 

[Doc]

In order to remove the transmission the transfer lever needs to be disconnected from the top of the transmission case. This operation requires removal of the center console and some other bits.

Oh.... OK. now I comprende.

 

[Koffer]

Ok, so the PWR function not working is caused by a connection not being restored. Is there also a connection for the 2ND gear button in the same area?

Yep Its in the same thing, one little plug . The last time I was in there I moved the switch to the front left coin holder slot in the bigger part of the console as the PO had used the switch as a coffee filter and i felt I would dump something in it too

 

[Altaf]

It probably wasn't the rear main to begin with. I bet it was the pan arch and they did not remove the seal retainer and just installed a new seal. If they did not remove the retainer this time it will likely still leak. Watch it closely.

As far as the power deal, it is possible that something is un-plugged or the like.

I would certainly take it back and I would inquire (diplomaticly, of course) if they also removed the seal retainer. 1FZ's leak A lOT more often from the arch than from the main.



D-

I just peeked under the truck this evening and sure enough, oil seeping from the rear main seal area - more than ever before. I'll be dropping off the truck in the morning to get the leaked fixed properly (hopefully), as well as the PWR and 2ND buttons operating again.

I must say the knowledgebase on this forum is unmatched. You guys are able to diagnose the truck properly without even seeing it, while the "certified" mechanics are looking right at the problem and scratching their heads. Damn you guys are good!

 

[Beowulf]

>> You guys are able to diagnose the truck properly without even seeing it, <<

BG,
It's because we've got Kurt back and Kurt's made every mistake in the book and told us all the gory details.

Welcome back Kurt!!! Where 'ya been? I hate to say it, but I missed you.

-B-

 

[scottm]

My truck had a new engine and then new rear main seal for the PO. Somewhere in there they bent a shift rod, so I have to shove forward on the shifter to pull the key out. They also bent something that rubbed through the rear heater line. Lots of stuff to go wrong there.

 

[landtoy80]

< Kurt back >
Back! Where did I go???

<Somewhere in there they bent a shift rod, so I have to shove forward on the shifter to pull the key out. They also bent something that rubbed through the rear heater line. Lots of stuff to go wrong there.>
I bent the shift rod too. I to have to push up on the shifter to get the key out.
You can adjust the rod, its a no brainer to adjust. You just need to remember to adjust it when you are under the vehicle.
The rod gets pinched when you install the tranny. . You don't notice its pinched, when you tighten the tranny mount bolts the rod slowly gets bent.

Then there is the issue of the O2 sensor wires getting pinched between the tranny and motor

 

[Beowulf]

>> Where did I go??? <<

Well, I thought there were no posts from you for several weeks. Maybe I put you on my IH8MUD "Ignore" list but I think Junk and F1car are the only ones on the list. I better go check.

-B-

 

[landtoy80]

>> Where did I go??? <<

Well, I thought there were no posts from you for several weeks. Maybe I put you on my IH8MUD "Ignore" list but I think Junk and F1car are the only ones on the list. I better go check.

-B-

I have been berry busy at work.
Come Oct. I will be berry berry berry busy with fresh berrys for the whole month.
I usually get the great day of All Hallows Eve off.

Where did I go???
Thats what my wife and kids have been saying.

 

[Altaf]

< Kurt back >
Back! Where did I go???

<Somewhere in there they bent a shift rod, so I have to shove forward on the shifter to pull the key out. They also bent something that rubbed through the rear heater line. Lots of stuff to go wrong there.>
I bent the shift rod too. I to have to push up on the shifter to get the key out.
You can adjust the rod, its a no brainer to adjust. You just need to remember to adjust it when you are under the vehicle.
The rod gets pinched when you install the tranny. . You don't notice its pinched, when you tighten the tranny mount bolts the rod slowly gets bent.

Then there is the issue of the O2 sensor wires getting pinched between the tranny and motor

Got the truck back today and the dealer ended up "resealing oil housing" and replacing the rear main seal again. They also found that the PWR and 2ND buttons were not working because they were not reconnected (just like what you guys said), so they corrected that. I haven't checked under the truck to make sure it is not leaking since it's dark out, but that doesn't mean I don't have more drama to share with you guys!!!

When I got home, I parked my truck as I always do (put the shifter in Neutral, engage the parking brake so the weight of the truck is on it and not the tranny, then place the shifter in Park). However this time, the key does not turn all the way to the ignition LOCK position, so the key can't come out. I remember reading the post above and I push the shifter forward, and magically the key can turn and come out. So now I have to use more force than before and make a conscious effort to put the shifter in P, otherwise I can't remove the key. It looks like the dealer bent something (shift rod???), and after reading the above post, I'm almost positive that's what happened! Can you guys share your opinions about this?

I really believe that this truck is actually in very good shape, it just needs a few common service items that are really not that big a deal. I'm trying to do everything that I've read on this forum to "baseline" the truck so it will last another 100k. And since I have a warranty, I've been getting things fixed that I would have otherwise ignored (like this tiny oil leak from the rear main seal area). I'm so freak'n pissed that the dealer did this! I’ve been to this place so many times that I might as well setup an office there… WTF!!!

 

[cruiserdan]

Ask them to re-adjust the shift lever and you should be good-to-go.


Told ya it was the seal retainer.......;p