Pump for Hydroboost? (1 Viewer)

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I don't know yet. I only took one 5 minute test drive. I have one leaky banjo fitting to fix and I need to replace the HB return port fitting with a 90 degree one to clear my hood. Once those are done I can get it out on a shake down drive and have a better feel for it.

To solve your issues did you acquire a Hydroboost pump body? If I have to I planed to weld on a -6 bung for a dedicated return line. Finding a reservoir with the return fittings pointing the way I want them to seems an impossible task.

I tried that once, when on the brakes and turning the steering would shimmy and the brakes pulse.... I presume you're not having those issues?
 
no, I bought a self-tapping fitting like this
BP40.jpg


it's an amsoil self-tapping, hollow bolt ... costs about $3.00 and you install it by first punching hole with a center-punch into the sheet metal (don't drill!) then threading it in. normally it's used for the oil-return line on a secondary oil filter or for oil return for turbos....
 
Huh, cool product. I had never seen that before. Lots of forum posts about using them, but I have not found a source to buy one yet. Where did you source it from?



no, I bought a self-tapping fitting like this
BP40.jpg


it's an amsoil self-tapping, hollow bolt ... costs about $3.00 and you install it by first punching hole with a center-punch into the sheet metal (don't drill!) then threading it in. normally it's used for the oil-return line on a secondary oil filter or for oil return for turbos....
 
Thanks Mace. If the answer is too easy I can never find it :)

I wonder if those would be leak free if under the fluid level. I would not want add air to the system by having the return stream above the fluid.
 
With as coarse as the threads are, I'd have the same concern. When I did the turbo on my FJ40 I simply bashed a hole in with a Air chisel and threaded it with a pipe tap. It's been secure for over 13 years now, but those threads are a lot finer.

Can you run a remote reservoir? That would allow as many return lines in whatever orientation you wish..

Speedway Vertical Steering Reservoir Tanks
 
It would be a whole lot easier to just weld on a -6 bung. Problem solved.
With as coarse as the threads are, I'd have the same concern. When I did the turbo on my FJ40 I simply bashed a hole in with a Air chisel and threaded it with a pipe tap. It's been secure for over 13 years now, but those threads are a lot finer.

Can you run a remote reservoir? That would allow as many return lines in whatever orientation you wish..

Speedway Vertical Steering Reservoir Tanks
 
Very true..
 
Franz and Amsoil have been using those fittings for nearly 60 years - they work quite well if you follow the instructions. The reason you punch a hole is once you start tightening in the adapter it pulls the metal towards the fitting effectively doubling the wall thickness. The reason the threads are so course is to allow for double wall thickness. If you thread the adapter back out - you'll see at least 3 complete threads in the metal...

As for why not a -6? because I'd have to take the entire front off my motor, disassemble the power steering pump, weld the bung on and reassemble (or risk cooking the o-rings in the pump)... in short, I'm lazy and this works as well if not better then the alternatives.
 
I am all for the lazy approach. I just finished getting it all put together and the air purged out. That was a job in itself since the fluid would not pump while turning the engine over, but not starting it. I figured I may take this approach first if I have to. I could always yank it and weld this or the bung on. With the small size of the return spitter port on the HB I bet there really isn't much flow from it. Maybe not even enough to worry about aerating the oil if the fitting were up high on the side.

Franz and Amsoil have been using those fittings for nearly 60 years - they work quite well if you follow the instructions. The reason you punch a hole is once you start tightening in the adapter it pulls the metal towards the fitting effectively doubling the wall thickness. The reason the threads are so course is to allow for double wall thickness. If you thread the adapter back out - you'll see at least 3 complete threads in the metal...

As for why not a -6? because I'd have to take the entire front off my motor, disassemble the power steering pump, weld the bung on and reassemble (or risk cooking the o-rings in the pump)... in short, I'm lazy and this works as well if not better then the alternatives.
 
I am all for the lazy approach. I just finished getting it all put together and the air purged out. That was a job in itself since the fluid would not pump while turning the engine over, but not starting it. I figured I may take this approach first if I have to. I could always yank it and weld this or the bung on. With the small size of the return spitter port on the HB I bet there really isn't much flow from it. Maybe not even enough to worry about aerating the oil if the fitting were up high on the side.

I just flushed the fluid on my f350 hydroboost system. The return from the hydro boots to the res is gentle through a 1/4" hose. Unless.you restrict the diameter of the fitting, I can't see it causing much foam.
 
Good to know. I got my parts to convert the return hose to a 90 degree so I could clear the hood. This weekend I'll take it out for an extended test drive to make sure it is working properly. Had one rear banjo fitting leaking. Re-seated the washers but I need to verify that leak is gone and no new ones surface.

I just flushed the fluid on my f350 hydroboost system. The return from the hydro boots to the res is gentle through a 1/4" hose. Unless.you restrict the diameter of the fitting, I can't see it causing much foam.
 

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