Puma Mount Install (1 Viewer)

[Tools R Us]

There have been requests, so here goes:

The work site, left rear cargo area. There are a couple of considerations: The wiring is best done before it is installed. The best place to put it is behind the panel. Remove the 3rd row seat bracket (retain the hardware) and the panels, the trim at the driver side rear first; carefully pry to release the clips.

If the seat belt is still there, this is a good time to remove it, pretty much useless with the bracket gone?

 

[Tools R Us]

The wiring is up to you. In this case, we used the existing 10-gauge landscape wire, but used both wires as positive. Ran it with the stock harness to the battery. Left an extra loop, incase it was needed to power other devices at a later date. Replace the panels.

The wires were brought out under the panel at the arrow. It is a tight fit, so we notched the panel to allow room.

 

[Tools R Us]

Before mounting the bracket, make sure the carpet is clear of the boltholes, may require slight trimming. It makes great thread locker, sometimes locking the bolt before contacting the bracket.

Line up the bracket and start thread all of the bolts by hand, and then tighten.

 

[Tools R Us]

Remove the factory feet from the compressor. Place it on the bracket, line it up where you want it and transfer mark the holes in the bracket to the compressor legs, then remove it and drill at the marks with a 1/4” bit.

Most of the time, the compressor is centered on the bracket. Look for clearance from the switch to the seat, with the switch in the off position, also compressor to the panel, etc.

We used a scribe to mark the holes. Takes pretty good pressure to make a good mark, so tape or squirting fresh paint in those spots are options.

 

[Tools R Us]

We used 6Mx15mm bolts and nuts to mount the compressor, if you prefer to use washers, they will need to be longer, 20mm?

 

[Tools R Us]

Views of it mounted.

 

[Tools R Us]

Looking in the window. The switch is easily accessible. The regulator is still mounted, it was later removed and replaced by a ¼” brass elbow, this points the coupler vertically, making it easy to access from the window. Also makes the overall unit slimmer, for better packing around it.

To remove the regulator, the gauge on the tank needs to be removed. Use Teflon tape on the threads, screw on the elbow, the coupler and then the gauge on the tank.

 

[Tools R Us]

John's compressor with the regulator removed and elbow installed. Brittan used a "T" fitting, so has another outlet to run his air lockers.

 

[Glenn-BJ74]

Puma 24 volt

Coincidentally, I just finished installing my 24 volt Puma air compressor in my BJ74. (After melting my series 12 volt compressors, I had some 24 volt Pumas made in Taiwan).

Since I have limited space in the BJ74, I rebuilt my old ARB fridge mount (using 1/8” steel) and I combined it with the Puma mount for strength. Underneath is storage space for my Jack-All and other junk. Beside the Puma is a rack for a Cabalas “ammo box” which contains a catalytic heater. I was unable to mount the Puma with the cylinder head forward; as it would hit the back of the front seat. The rack is bolted to the floor and turnbuckles on two cargo tie-downs. It is wired with marine 6 gauge and a circuit breaker located by the batteries.

 

[azrider]

that mount looks pretty slick Kevin, took a look at Johns mounts in his truck last time I seen you guys. Makes me almost want to get a Puma for the awesome mount. Are you producing these yet, you showed me the jig in your shop, just wondering.

 

[Tools R Us]

Coincidentally, I just finished installing my 24 volt Puma air compressor in my BJ74. ...

Looks good Glen, clean.

 

[Tools R Us]

that mount looks pretty slick Kevin, took a look at Johns mounts in his truck last time I seen you guys. Makes me almost want to get a Puma for the awesome mount. Are you producing these yet, you showed me the jig in your shop, just wondering.

Yes, have made several, can make more if there is demand.

 

[Tools R Us]

... I had some 24 volt Pumas made in Taiwan).

, you were talking about getting one, was it a normal production unit or custom?

... turnbuckles on two cargo tie-downs. ...

They work, as long as you are aware of their capacity. IIRC they have very low failure point, lower than one would think, so go overkill on them.

 

[Glenn-BJ74]

, you were talking about getting one, was it a normal production unit or custom?

It was a custom production run - I have one left, but it maybe sold. I may order more in the spring. I am looking into a full 1 hp 24 volt Puma, which produces 33% more HP.


They work, as long as you are aware of their capacity. IIRC they have very low failure point, lower than one would think, so go overkill on them.

There are 10 bolt points plus the two turnbuckles. Its not going anywhere.

 

[Tools R Us]

I had my first experience with the newer type with the red switch. The detent is significantly lighter than the early wire handle switch, so will come on easier with vibration. May need a relay and leave the switch in the on position all of the time?

 

[Saddletramp]

Another Satisfied Customer

Just installed my bracket and Puma today. Notice the different handle, and yes it is a 12 Volt.

I like the Hammertone finish on the bracket, Krylon Outdoor Spaces 2917 Brown Metalic....just in case someone asks

Thanks a lot Kevin and John.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Nice install but that handle looks like a............never mind

 

[BrotherRob]

Nice install but that handle looks like a snorkel

Fixed it.

 

[Tools R Us]

Looks great!

... Notice the different handle, and yes it is a 12 Volt.
...

Very different, has the extremeaire head and cylinder.

 

[cook]

Did the back road to crown king yesterday with my new puma installed. The new detent activated twice without human involvement. But I'm not sure if it was vibration or the dog

I figure a rubber band should take care of the problem, although Kevin's idea sounds great. (yes, I'm volunteering my rig for experimental designs). What can I say, I like your stuff.