Pulling transfer then tranny

[cruiser88]

Looking at my FSM last night it seems easy enough when its out but what i want to know is it a bear to pull the transfer then the tranny with it still in. Oh.....my rig is an 84 with the newer top shift tranny. I really dont want to have to go out and spent a buch of $ in exspensive tranny jacks. I have plenty of jacks just no tranny assist jacks and I KNOW it a bear pulling the tranny,transfer out at once.

Its time for the clutch replacement,front tranny bearing(cone bearing I think) and I might as well change some gaskets and check all my outputs while I have it all out.

Any suggestions?

 

[KLF]

It's possible, I've done it this way. Have a friend to help you. I left the t-case bolted to the crossmember, lowered it as a unit, then dropped the tranny. Don't worry about supporting the back of the engine, just let it droop, makes it MUCH easier to reach the bellhousing bolts.

Drain everything before you start taking bolts out.

You might as well replace the seal between the tranny & transfer while you have them parted.

 

[cruiser88]

gottcha thanks. I just got back in. There is no slop what so ever in any of my outputs. Its just the clutch and front cone bearing thats shot. So looks like the rest of it will get a good cleaning,new mounts and a new skid plate will also be in order.

It's possible, I've done it this way. Have a friend to help you. I left the t-case bolted to the crossmember, lowered it as a unit, then dropped the tranny. Don't worry about supporting the back of the engine, just let it droop, makes it MUCH easier to reach the bellhousing bolts.

Drain everything before you start taking bolts out.

You might as well replace the seal between the tranny & transfer while you have them parted.

 

[corax]

Don't used brake clean or carb cleaner to clean the dust/grime off the back of the engine - any harsh solvents will attack the rear crank seal and a few weeks from now you'll have a slow oil leak. Windex, Formula 409, etc works fine, even better with a brush and some water (if you don't mind making a puddle where you'll be working or have time to let it dry). Brake clean in the bell housing is fine, just don't spray it along the input shaft splines up the release bearing snout.

 

[Rix86]

Replace the rear main seal. whether it's leaking or not.

 

[cruiser88]

Plan to. Thanks fellas

Replace the rear main seal. whether it's leaking or not.

 

[jtaco1]

I use an engine hoist down through the center console area where the shifters stick up with ratchet straps. Works great.

 

[Bogo]

I use an engine hoist down through the center console area where the shifters stick up with ratchet straps. Works great.

I used a board with a ratchet strap. When removing and installing I slid the board from one end of the shifter hole to the other. Ratchet strap provided lifting and holding. Some muscle is needed for aligning them up, but it is allot less than trying to hold all of it up by hand. It is also much stabler than doing it with bottle jacks.

I've also used stacks of 2x4s and levered a trany up into position.

You will want some very long extensions and a flex fitting for getting at the top bolts between the bell housing and engine.

If you want to support the back of the engine. Take a long enough 2x4 or larger board, a 3/8" or larger threaded rod, a nut to fit, and some fender or dock washers. I used a 5' long 2x4 and drilled a hole in the middle that would fit the threaded rod. I placed the board cross wise across the engine compartment from fender to fender with a pad and block under each end. I bent a hook into the end of the threaded rod and hooked that under the rear engine lift point. The threaded rod goes through the hole in the board. The washers spread the load so the nut doesn't sink into the wood. You can then raise and lower the rear of the engine as needed using a wrench to turn the nut. Putting some grease on the threads and between the nut and washers will make it easier to change heights.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

gottcha thanks. I just got back in. There is no slop what so ever in any of my outputs. Its just the clutch and front cone bearing thats shot. So looks like the rest of it will get a good cleaning,new mounts and a new skid plate will also be in order.

One suggestion: Budbuilt.

OK two suggestions: Have him powdercoat it as well.