Props to PADDO's AHC fluid replacement method! (7 Viewers)

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The reason I say starting to go is because I heard that when globes go the ride quality really suffers and gets super bouncy, but I’m not having that experience. I’m not having issues with the car settling low after sitting for a while either.

I just got this LX last week, before it I had a 2016 GX460 and my LX rides noticeably better than that GX, even with apparently blown globes. Guess I gotta place an order from impex just to be safe.
The ultimate test of 'ride quality' is the 'backside test' -- how it feels personally. If happy, then delay 'globe' replacement until unhappy -- but damping is unlikely to be as good as it can be.

As @BullElk highlights, the HI/LO graduation test gives an overall result for the four 'globes' all together. All four 'globes' are unlikely to collapse simultaneously, but like tyres and brakes, when one has reached the 'wear point' the others are likely to be not far behind, so trying to target one or two bad 'globes' in a ~20 years old set of four can be an exercise in futility.
 
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^^^^ Agree....If unexperienced in the globe replacement process, I would suggest replacing all or having all replaced at same time.
 
Yep I’ll be doing all 4 at the same time.

Is replacing the globes really as easy as it looks (according to YouTube videos)? It looks like it’s basically a fluid flush, but with 1 extra step, being twisting the spent globes off and outing the new ones on before starting the truck and refilling the system
 
Yep I’ll be doing all 4 at the same time.

Is replacing the globes really as easy as it looks (according to YouTube videos)? It looks like it’s basically a fluid flush, but with 1 extra step, being twisting the spent globes off and outing the new ones on before starting the truck and refilling the system
It is not difficult but I think one needs to get a couple under their belt before describing as easy. There can be frustrating events like rusty or corroded globe connections making retrieval difficult or not keeping enough fluid in reservoir duriing bleeding and then getting air in system. But it is usually a fairly easy uneventful job. That is why I personally would do 1-2 globes at a time if I knew others were still good. I don't mind the work.
 
Yep I’ll be doing all 4 at the same time.

Is replacing the globes really as easy as it looks (according to YouTube videos)? It looks like it’s basically a fluid flush, but with 1 extra step, being twisting the spent globes off and outing the new ones on before starting the truck and refilling the system

A 2006 LX470 in Texas with only 186,000 miles seems likely to be in good underbody condition -- none or very little rust seizing parts together?

@BullElk has summed it up succinctly as usual. Here is a bit more .....

Yes -- 'globe' replacement should be a simple and quick process, although the first time can be 'interesting'! Mostly, the 'globes' come off easily with a thin but strong 36mm wrench to match the fitting on the 'globe' and a long handle for leverage. Sometimes 'globes' can be very tight and difficult to remove. Some war stories and solutions can be found in various IH8MUD threads including the one below:

Cannot remove AHC Globe - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/cannot-remove-ahc-globe.1359385/

Attaching four new 'globes' means that a LOT of air has been introduced into the AHC system and a persistent, methodical and repetitive approach to bleeding is essential -- but is not difficult. There are various approaches to this but the already used "PADDO" method is a good place to begin -- attached again for convenience.

This forum is replete with frustrated war stories of bleeding going wrong after 'globe' replacement or other AHC repairs (such as replacement of the AHC Pump sub-assembly or troubles with the Height Control Accumulator), usually due to additional air being inadvertently allowed to enter during the process. The solution is more and more and more bleeding. So it is a good idea to have at least two 2.5 litre cans of genuine Toyota/Lexus AHC Fluid Part Number 08886-01805 on hand before starting -- stay with the knowns, avoid suggestions of other fluids, some of which are destructive of parts of the AHC system. Remnant air left in the AHC system will result in a very spongy 'ride quality' and much unhappiness. Avoid using the 1 litre plastic bottles of AHC Fluid Part Number 08886-81221 which were marketed in the USA in past years and which are said to contain or degrade to a gel which causes blockage problems.

It can happen that the AHC Pump refuses to start if it contains air and if so, it will need to be re-started. Sometimes this can be done using the "HEIGHT CONTROL OPERATION TEST -- ACTIVE TEST" per Section 5 at Page 6 of the first attachment (Special Service Tool SST 09843-18020 is simply a piece of bridging wire and a bent paperclip is just as good!) Ignore the array of dashboard lights which will show during this method.

If the Active Test cannot be made to work, then make a brief (10 seconds) direct connection from the battery to the AHC Motor, ensuring correct polarity so that the motor rotates in the correct direction.

Strongly recommend reading enough of the thread at the link below to get an undertstanding of the AHC and TEMS systems and what to do when common problems are encountered, including watching the video at Post #5:


If not seen before, the attached General Description of the AHC and TEMS systems is a worthwhile read.
 

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