LOL on the hinges!! thats awesome!
Builds Project ToyLET (PICS)
- Thread starter 4alarm
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #182
Got all the seatbelt brackets made and did a little painting.
I used some 1/4" thick angle iron and drilled a hole to connect to the inner seat belts.
Then I welded them in to the seat mounts:
Both sides welded in:
I used the left over angle iron to make the outside brackets. Drilled my holes and welded them:
Both sides done:
I painted the seat mounts, seatbelt brackets and the floor under neath them, re-mounted the driver seat and got the harnesses installed and adjusted. I ran out of time before I could do the passenger side.:
I painted the rear harness bar and started painting the cage so I could get the shoulder straps mounted.:
The only thing I'm not sure about is the location of the crotch strap. The instructions said to mount it parallel with the drivers back, but I didn't want to attach it to the sheet metal, so I just drilled a hole through the front seat mount and bolted it to that. I guess I'm not too concerned about "submarining".:
Tomorrow I'll get the passenger seat in and finish up the harnesses. Then hopefully I'll get the rest of the cage painted. After I get the relay for the radiator fan and get the exhaust done, I can drive it!. Ohh and I still need to wire the signal lights.... And the gas tank... and the shocks
I used some 1/4" thick angle iron and drilled a hole to connect to the inner seat belts.
Then I welded them in to the seat mounts:
Both sides welded in:
I used the left over angle iron to make the outside brackets. Drilled my holes and welded them:
Both sides done:
I painted the seat mounts, seatbelt brackets and the floor under neath them, re-mounted the driver seat and got the harnesses installed and adjusted. I ran out of time before I could do the passenger side.:
I painted the rear harness bar and started painting the cage so I could get the shoulder straps mounted.:
The only thing I'm not sure about is the location of the crotch strap. The instructions said to mount it parallel with the drivers back, but I didn't want to attach it to the sheet metal, so I just drilled a hole through the front seat mount and bolted it to that. I guess I'm not too concerned about "submarining".:
Tomorrow I'll get the passenger seat in and finish up the harnesses. Then hopefully I'll get the rest of the cage painted. After I get the relay for the radiator fan and get the exhaust done, I can drive it!. Ohh and I still need to wire the signal lights.... And the gas tank... and the shocks
- Thread starter
- #183
Got the passenger seat back in and the harness bolted up and adjusted. Then I moved on to the gas tank. First I welded the floor around the tank to the bracket to give the floor some support. I turned the tank so the fill neck would be on the drivers side (stoopid pass side fill necks!). I had to persuade the tank to drop into the bracket. I capped off the CJ pickup and return, and capped the return line on the Toyota pickup. I picked up new hoses for the filler neck and ran the vent line up along with the filler neck. Then I ran new fuel line up to a filter then into the fuel pump. I welded the fuel pump bracket to the frame, then used zip ties to temporarily hold the fuel line. After the exhaust is done I'll install the line clips to hold it to the frame. After that I cleaned up some of the wiring in the engine bay. Tonight, after the kids are asleep, I'll wire up the signal lights.
Passenger seat and harness done:
Gas tank:
Filler neck (I'll cut a hole in the rear quarter panel and mount the filler eventually):
Filler:
Pump bracket welded and fuel filter installed:
Passenger seat and harness done:
Gas tank:
Filler neck (I'll cut a hole in the rear quarter panel and mount the filler eventually):
Filler:
Pump bracket welded and fuel filter installed:
- Thread starter
- #184
Well, I got all the signal lights wired up. In the process I found that the gas tank is leaking. I'll have to pull it and find another one, or just move to a fuel cell.
kling-on
Kool Arrow
- Joined
- Apr 26, 2003
- Threads
- 255
- Messages
- 5,503
- Location
- Pimpin part in SanAntonio TX
- Website
- www.texas4x4.org
truck look good .. and keep strong my dad's 10 yr is nexted month and he was told there was NO chance the drugs would work
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2002
- Threads
- 558
- Messages
- 8,122
- Location
- Kamloops, BC Canada
- Website
- www.shopraddcruisers.ca
Keep up the good work, looking really good.
Rob
Rob
WOW!! You should be wheeling by this weekend!! 
- Thread starter
- #188
I hope so.
Sunday I picked up a new CJ5 gas tank and got the old leaking one swapped out. I'll need to upgrade to 5/16" fuel line now, but no biggie. I made the 1/4" line work temporarily.
Last night I got the brakes bled and wired up the high speed portion of the Taurus fan. Later I'll get it setup to be controlled with thermal switches that will switch between high and low dependent upon temp.
Today I thought was going to be an easy relaxing day. NOPE! I got to the muffler shop and the guy looked at it and said that it would be much better (easier on him) If I had a different set of exhaust manifolds. My passenger side dumped out at a bad angle compared to all the stuff in the way (starter, driveshaft). Also, a few of the studs were snapped off the manifolds. I thought they'd be able to replace the studs, but he said they didn't do that. So I made a trip to Checker and picked up a set of Flowtech long tube headers and took them back to the muffler shop. Well, they don't install headers..... He was cool though and let me use his shop, lift, and tools to install them. I spent the morning/afternoon pulling the front drive shaft, starter and clutch slave cylinder to try and make the headers fit. Of course the bolts that held my manifolds on wouldn't work with the headers, so I had to make a trip to the hardware store to buy new bolts. Get back to install them and can't get a socket to clear the headers to tighten the bolts. I got 2 bolts on each side in so he can bend up the exhaust and I'll install the new "header" bolts that I picked up from Checker after I get it home. In the process I also snapped 2 spark plugs so I had to make another trip to Checker for new ones.
I have about a dollar bill's worth of clearance between the headers and the frame rails. I'M NEVER INSTALLING HEADERS AGAIN!
My blood counts were too low to start treatment tomorrow so I have to wait until tomorrow for the results of my blood test today to find out when I can fly out to Cali for the next round. WHEW, today's been busy. Tomorrow, I sleep!
Sunday I picked up a new CJ5 gas tank and got the old leaking one swapped out. I'll need to upgrade to 5/16" fuel line now, but no biggie. I made the 1/4" line work temporarily.
Last night I got the brakes bled and wired up the high speed portion of the Taurus fan. Later I'll get it setup to be controlled with thermal switches that will switch between high and low dependent upon temp.
Today I thought was going to be an easy relaxing day. NOPE! I got to the muffler shop and the guy looked at it and said that it would be much better (easier on him) If I had a different set of exhaust manifolds. My passenger side dumped out at a bad angle compared to all the stuff in the way (starter, driveshaft). Also, a few of the studs were snapped off the manifolds. I thought they'd be able to replace the studs, but he said they didn't do that. So I made a trip to Checker and picked up a set of Flowtech long tube headers and took them back to the muffler shop. Well, they don't install headers..... He was cool though and let me use his shop, lift, and tools to install them. I spent the morning/afternoon pulling the front drive shaft, starter and clutch slave cylinder to try and make the headers fit. Of course the bolts that held my manifolds on wouldn't work with the headers, so I had to make a trip to the hardware store to buy new bolts. Get back to install them and can't get a socket to clear the headers to tighten the bolts. I got 2 bolts on each side in so he can bend up the exhaust and I'll install the new "header" bolts that I picked up from Checker after I get it home. In the process I also snapped 2 spark plugs so I had to make another trip to Checker for new ones.
I have about a dollar bill's worth of clearance between the headers and the frame rails. I'M NEVER INSTALLING HEADERS AGAIN!
My blood counts were too low to start treatment tomorrow so I have to wait until tomorrow for the results of my blood test today to find out when I can fly out to Cali for the next round. WHEW, today's been busy. Tomorrow, I sleep!
- Thread starter
- #189
Pics of the new tank:
Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
I know exactly that you feel when you gonna do something simple and end with your hands full of greas and dirt fixing something else ..
Never are that easy in old Cruisers ..
Nice job dude ..
Never are that easy in old Cruisers ..
Nice job dude ..
- Thread starter
- #191
The flange on the header was hitting the front drive shaft. I guess he didn't see where I wrote down my name and number so nothing got done today until I called late in the afternoon to find out if it was going to be ready. I went down to look at it and it looks like I'll be able to grind a portion of the header flange off to make the drive shaft clear. Needless to say It won't be done until tomorrow now.
I fly out Thurs. morning for Cali. so no more until the weekend.
I fly out Thurs. morning for Cali. so no more until the weekend.
- Thread starter
- #192
He surprised me at about 10:00am and said it was ready. When I started it for the first time it sounded like CRAP! But then I realized that the headers weren't bolted up all the way (2 bolts per side=massive exhaust leak). I got it home, put my new header bolts on it and fired it up. Me LIKEY! Not too loud, but sounds like a V8 should. I grinded a good chunk out of the header flange but it still looks like the drive shaft is going to rub. I had to call it a day when the wifey got home so I didn't have time to bolt it back up to check. I still have a little more material that I can grind off.
I also picked up all the relays and thermal switches to automate my radiator fan. I drew up the circuit, now I just need to wire it all up. I'm thinking that I'll have the low speed fan come on at ~180 and switch to the high speed fan at ~200.
I'm off to Cali in the morning, so it'll be at least Sat. before I can play with it again.
Me LIKEY! Not too loud, but sounds like a V8 should. I grinded a good chunk out of the header flange but it still looks like the drive shaft is going to rub. I had to call it a day when the wifey got home so I didn't have time to bolt it back up to check. I still have a little more material that I can grind off.I also picked up all the relays and thermal switches to automate my radiator fan. I drew up the circuit, now I just need to wire it all up. I'm thinking that I'll have the low speed fan come on at ~180 and switch to the high speed fan at ~200.
I'm off to Cali in the morning, so it'll be at least Sat. before I can play with it again.
Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
But you let it with good news !
- Thread starter
- #194
Quick video of the exhaust. Not too loud, but sounds like a V8 should.
http://www.parrish-family.net/albums/exhaust/fj40_exhaust_180.wmv
http://www.parrish-family.net/albums/exhaust/fj40_exhaust_180.wmv
Amazing JOB!!! , your TOY looks great 
I hope it finished soon and enjoy with friends
- Thread starter
- #197
Hopefully next weekend will be a shake down run. It's so close I can taste it.
A few pics of the exhaust, I'll try and get some better ones later.
Headers:
Muffler/tailpipe:
Some grinding, I think I'll need more:
A few pics of the exhaust, I'll try and get some better ones later.
Headers:
Muffler/tailpipe:
Some grinding, I think I'll need more:
- Thread starter
- #198
Got all the grinding on the header flange done. It clears at rest. We'll see what happens under articulation
Drive shaft clearence:
The clutch slave cylinder hydro line was rubbing on the header. I ordered a new master/slave cylinder combo with a stainless steel braided line from JTOutfitters. That probably won't be here till the end of the week, so I picked up some 1/4" hard line and extended that down behind the header so I could keep the flex line as far from the heat as possible.
New hard line:
Doesn't look like it but I have about 1/2" of space between the header and the line.:
Only problem I have left with the headers is that the oil filter is touching. Not sure if they make thinner filters, but I'll have to do something. May just get a filter relocation kit.
Drive shaft clearence:
The clutch slave cylinder hydro line was rubbing on the header. I ordered a new master/slave cylinder combo with a stainless steel braided line from JTOutfitters. That probably won't be here till the end of the week, so I picked up some 1/4" hard line and extended that down behind the header so I could keep the flex line as far from the heat as possible.
New hard line:
Doesn't look like it but I have about 1/2" of space between the header and the line.:
Only problem I have left with the headers is that the oil filter is touching. Not sure if they make thinner filters, but I'll have to do something. May just get a filter relocation kit.
- Thread starter
- #199
Got the 2 speed fan relay setup wired and installed. All automated. At 185* the low speed fan kicks in, at 200* the low speed fan shuts off and the high speed fan kicks on. I still need to get the 200* switch, but I tested my wiring by grounding out the connector. I let the engine run and warm up in the garage to test the 185* switch. I mounted all the relay's in a Radio Shack project box and mounted it on the firewall.
Relay's, wiring, and connectors:
185* switch mounted in the intake manifold. The 200* switch will go on the other side of the thermostat:
Relay's wired and mounted:
All buttoned up:
While I was in a wiring mood, I ripped out all the wiring in the dash and replaced the push button starter with a key. The wiring was a mess. 10 guage from the starter to 16 guage running through the dash to 18 guage speaker wire to the switch. 8 guage to 10 guage to 18 guage speaker wire for the main power to the ignition switch. The old fuse panel was crap so I replaced it with a new one. I shouldn't have any wiring problems now.
New fuse block:
Also picked up a K&N air filter. I forgot to take pictures, but I replaced the 20ft throttle cable (okay it was like 6ft) with a new universal one from Lokar. I had to cut the top of the gas pedal off, and weld on a piece of 1/8" plate with a hole drilled in it to make the connection to the pedal.
New air cleaner (finally looks like an engine):
I welded up the front shock mounts on the axle and found some nuts to bolt the shocks up. Fronts are done, now I just need to work on the rears.
Front shock:
I need to pull the diff covers off and re-seal them then check the fluid level in the trans and t-case and then I'll be driving it.
Relay's, wiring, and connectors:
185* switch mounted in the intake manifold. The 200* switch will go on the other side of the thermostat:
Relay's wired and mounted:
All buttoned up:
While I was in a wiring mood, I ripped out all the wiring in the dash and replaced the push button starter with a key. The wiring was a mess. 10 guage from the starter to 16 guage running through the dash to 18 guage speaker wire to the switch. 8 guage to 10 guage to 18 guage speaker wire for the main power to the ignition switch. The old fuse panel was crap so I replaced it with a new one. I shouldn't have any wiring problems now.
New fuse block:
Also picked up a K&N air filter. I forgot to take pictures, but I replaced the 20ft throttle cable (okay it was like 6ft) with a new universal one from Lokar. I had to cut the top of the gas pedal off, and weld on a piece of 1/8" plate with a hole drilled in it to make the connection to the pedal.
New air cleaner (finally looks like an engine):
I welded up the front shock mounts on the axle and found some nuts to bolt the shocks up. Fronts are done, now I just need to work on the rears.
Front shock:
I need to pull the diff covers off and re-seal them then check the fluid level in the trans and t-case and then I'll be driving it.
If you get bored, you can come finish my wiring too
