"PROJECT ROOBY" 80 all rounder build (1 Viewer)

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still off topic, but wouldn't just the rear two tires make the difference since they leave the last track?

Not whilst cornering - even a 4WSteer vehicle has a slightly different arc from front to rear and a 2WSteer conventional setup magnifies that effect. Keep in mind that if a vehicle or a group of vehicles come to a stop somewhere and "turn around" you can tell right away about which way they came and which way they went but if you hit their trail perpendicular to progress in either direction it is extremely hard to tell which way they came or which way they went without tracking that track sometimes hundreds of miles to their conclusion point, or, to their starting point. It is just one of many mechanisms to confuse things and I know that however effective it was, or was not, I saw countless embassy vehicles and military vehicles getting rotated every which way but normal in shops all around the world. HTH. :cheers:
 
Speaking of monstrous Yotas. How about this Artic set-up Hilux / Tacoma. :clap:
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Speaking of monstrous Yotas. How about this Artic set-up Hilux / Tacoma. :clap:

It's a Hi Lux D4D 3.0 Turbo Intercooled, 1KD-FTV ECU controled common rail y varliable vane turbo.
 
The bad thing about going 14" travel in the rear without freeing the front is some unwanted movement.

ESPECIALLY when going down an off-camber spot. Going up it flexes sweet and you have no issues. When you start going on a trail or big obstacle, the front dictates where it goes and the whole body follows it. :eek:

this is where a 3 link would really help up front.

true. so true
also having that flexy rear on an 80 can be dangerous with how stiff the front is. I hate the way the front unloads all the time-so much energy bound up in that stiff front end

I prefer a parallel four link front. This is what the truck with the y rear link has in front.. If you bust one link and there is still 3 left with one on the other side of the axle. On a 3 link if the single upper link pops.. look out.

so build the 3 link so it dont bust. an 80 front has only 2 frame links for the radius arms. Bust one of them and there will be major carnage. but they never break.
 
Well,

been a very busy time, but managed to get some more pics of some of the things ROOBY has had done over the last little while.

Fiting the supercharger a little while ago created some issues with the knock sensors on the engine, bringing on the check engine light, and default backed off timing on the computer, which didnt help power, or economy, and to overcome the issues, we have now fitted a microtech computer piggy backed with the original ECU so cold idle, A/C idle up, and auto shifting etc is all controlled by the factory ecu, and the microtech does the rest.

The supercharger is a CAPA kit, with V1 Vortech unit [that needs a new rubber hose from the unit to the piping we made, and the soap doesnt like the paint we painted the pipe with either.] I was going to turbo the car originally, but when this kit came along at a price to good to refuse second hand, I thought it was worth trying.

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Microtech havent had the best name in the past, as being very simple units, but when tuned with the laptop and microtech software, you get double the plot points to set at for timing/fuel etc, and running it piggy backed to the factory ECU to control the other parts we wanted.

Currently, the 5200 rpm readline sees the kw and nm still climbing and not tapering off pulling 9 psi of boost. [should be a 6.5 psi kit and pulley] so we have gone 2 heat ranges cooler in the spark plugs, but an intercooler may be next, to prevent detonation, rising intake temps.

We have also installed a Malpassi rising rate fuel reg, and Bosch fuel pump, to stop the injectors going onto max duty cycle. [reg with fuel pressure gauge fitted below] as wella s a vn air temp sensor in the pipes after the supercharger, and a second toyota coolant temp sensor, as we couldnt piggy back that voltage to both units, so we gave them a sensor each.

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On 37's we are seeing 182kw and 608Nm [aprox] at the rear wheels, and on the hwy economy seems to be slightly better than standard 4.5 while pushing the 37"s. Did a high country snow trip with Craigs group 2 weekends ago, and at alititude, on the hwy, general driving around, the extra torque has been really nice.

Holding the foot flat on the road and letting the ecu shift second has created an issue with the vehicle spinning the left hand front 37 " tyre as it bangs second gear though, so a 2wd/4wd conversion is next, as the car is also spinning the fronts when driving/cornering more spirited than normal, even up to 80kph+.
 
That's 244hp and 448.4 ft lbs at the rear wheels running 37s and stock gears. Seems a little high for only 9lbs of boost.

I also see a MAF sensor and they saturate early on in boost. How is it you can manage fuel in that condition?
 
That's 244hp and 448.4 ft lbs at the rear wheels running 37s and stock gears. Seems a little high for only 9lbs of boost.

I also see a MAF sensor and they saturate early on in boost. How is it you can manage fuel in that condition?

If you read a little more in the posts, you might see it isnt "stock gears" at all ;)

as for the MAF, we have installed the microtech so we can easily revert to stock ecu with 4 plugs if required, so the MAF only works if we run the stock ecu.

Fuel is managed by the computer, the rising rate fuel reg [as mentioned] and the larger fuel pump.

Tapage,

the high boost is right at the max rpm, its not there all the time, and less so, with the amount of torque it makes, to shift to the next gear, rather than let it rev, which makes it a much nicer unit to drive on the larger wheels.
 
Tapage,

the high boost is right at the max rpm, its not there all the time, and less so, with the amount of torque it makes, to shift to the next gear, rather than let it rev, which makes it a much nicer unit to drive on the larger wheels.

Did you also take some AFR measure at this top WOT point @ 9 PSI .. ?
 
We also added a Autron cruise control unit, to help on the long drives, and wuith the speed cameras, and have found it to be great, as you can adjust the sensitivity of the unit, and the LEd is green when turned on, orange when activated.

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The green switch on the right locks up the torque convertor in any gear, and the brown one links the 2 batteries bypassing the red arc unit for winching etc.
 
If you read a little more in the posts, you might see it isnt "stock gears" at all ;)
.

what do gears have to do with the power she makes?

Im a sceptic. 450 ft/lbs torque at the wheels on only 9psi??? do you have a map of the dyno run.

perhaps its poss if you are well over 5000 rpms. hows that centrif blower doing at down lower on the tach?
 
Of course, we put a port in the exhaust specifically for this, closer than the tail pipe, so we got more accurate readings sooner to do so. We have extractors jet hot coated, with a 3' mandrel exhaust, and a straight through muffler .

nice .. but the EGT numbers are .. ?

We spent a lot of time on AFR so we could improve the economy where it was needed, so it now gets 18 lt per 100km hwy [13.2 miles per gallon US] about the same as a standard one here with accessories, but on 37"s [with the ratio change in my sig, land tank ;)] mixture of hwy/city.

and the AFR is .. 10.8 or less .. ?
 
nice .. but the EGT numbers are .. ?



and the AFR is .. 10.8 or less .. ?

Would have to look up the EGT's, 11 was what we were aiming for A/F, but we werent expecting to see the boost we did when we were looking at that during the planning.
 
Would have to look up the EGT's, 11 was what we were aiming for A/F, but we werent expecting to see the boost we did when we were looking at that during the planning.

11 sounds fair .. at 9PSI .. very impresive anycase you build.
 
11 sounds fair .. at 9PSI .. very impresive anycase you build.

Thanks,

given the kit is supposed to be a 6.5 lb boost kit, we were very surprised, and we have added extractors and 3" exhaust on it, and our own supercharger spring set up turbo smart blow off, rather than the bosch unit it comes with, to make sure its not cavitasting at idle in the intake, and in speaking with the manufacturers, the v1 should easily run 12 psi of boost, so something to look forward to after the intercooler. ;)

I know my old turbo motor was running 20 psi on lpg intercooled way back when, and was making 285 rw kw at all 4 wheels, in an auto 80.
 

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