Very cool Darren! I'd love to see some more backside shots with the Slee rear bumper on and the storage setup complete! Very very cool.
"PROJECT ROOBY" 80 all rounder build
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- #122
Very cool Darren! I'd love to see some more backside shots with the Slee rear bumper on and the storage setup complete! Very very cool.
back into it this week, will get some more pics up.
Rear bar will leave tomorrow hopefully, as soon as Christo tells me my order is ready to pick up.
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- #123
I just got uniballs for my lower arms and panhard rods, to keep them looking factory. The offroad guys are using them with minimal wear issues, and here have never seen one fail, so they should allow the flex we want more easily than binding up the rubber bushes.
We machined the hi mis spacers down to fit into the original cruiser brackets in width, and used 19mm bolt size spacers so they go straight on the toyota bolts, and with the locator ring welded onto the cruiser control arm at the diff end, will look factory when you stick your head under there, compared to heim jointed units.
We used 1" for the arms, and 7/8 fit onto the diff end of the panhards using the same method as above, machining down the high mis spacers to get the right width.
Will get some pics when they are installed.
We machined the hi mis spacers down to fit into the original cruiser brackets in width, and used 19mm bolt size spacers so they go straight on the toyota bolts, and with the locator ring welded onto the cruiser control arm at the diff end, will look factory when you stick your head under there, compared to heim jointed units.
We used 1" for the arms, and 7/8 fit onto the diff end of the panhards using the same method as above, machining down the high mis spacers to get the right width.
Will get some pics when they are installed.
Darren how well do they seal out dirt, sand and such?
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- #125
The offroad guys have been using them over here for front arm and ball joints for offroad racing, and they are self lubricating, teflon sealed, and havent seen one fail as yet, they just require some wd-40 type lube sprayed on occasionally, I am expecting, based on shock uniballs and heims previously to get 70-100000km [45-60 000 mils] out of them reliably.
Some of the vehicles racing off road are ontop the 3rd or 4th season on same units.
interesting. THose joints have been kicked around here in discussion a few times and most feel that they will fail quickly. Again, most are probably cyberwheelers at best 
I know much of what had teflon lined spherical bearings (uniball) in rotory wing aviation is gone. Elastomeric bearings have been found to be lower mainenance and last longer in dust and dirt. These are not just a chunk of poly but spherical plates laminated in elastomeric (rubber/polly) capsule.
The desert racing community knows the most about uniballs. Race-Dezert and Glamis Dunes forums for example have some posts about how often they need to be changed. Most do not recomend on a DD due to the replacement schedule and NVH transmitted into the frame.
I for one would probably put them on only one end wth poly on the other.. Get some flex but isolate some vibes too. Probably the frame end to lower dirt and moisture exposue time. WD really just flushes water and fine dirt out of them.
The desert racing community knows the most about uniballs. Race-Dezert and Glamis Dunes forums for example have some posts about how often they need to be changed. Most do not recomend on a DD due to the replacement schedule and NVH transmitted into the frame.
I for one would probably put them on only one end wth poly on the other.. Get some flex but isolate some vibes too. Probably the frame end to lower dirt and moisture exposue time. WD really just flushes water and fine dirt out of them.
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- #128
Like anything, you only get what you pay for, and there are varying qualities of such products, and we have certainly not gone the cheaper ones, so we will see how they go. Based on my research of these specific units over the last 18 months, I think my km expected in the post above should be a very reasonable estimate of service life.
We are putting them at the diff end, and leaving the factory bushes at the chassis end, because of NVH with both the arms, and the panhard rods.
We are putting them at the diff end, and leaving the factory bushes at the chassis end, because of NVH with both the arms, and the panhard rods.
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- #129
heim jointed 80 a frame we worked on yesterday on the 512 ci 80 chassised truck.
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- #130
This is the sort of travel the swivel arms and a frame give an 80 with the sway bars disconnected. This truck has 14" Fox smoothies fitted.
This is where we are now doing a more user freindly ride height vehicle, in ROOBY, to get the travel, with bigger tyres, like the big block truck here.
This is where we are now doing a more user freindly ride height vehicle, in ROOBY, to get the travel, with bigger tyres, like the big block truck here.
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interesting, I get that kind of travel with stock set-up and stock bushings... Truck has 14" travel RSXL's.
FJBen
SILVER Star
Yeah with 14" shocks and the stock 5-link rear, thats what I was doing on my old rig.
The front is where I'd like to see some gain without a full redesign or loss of street manners. Or at least the ability to match the rear without a full redesign or some sort of compromise...
but I'm not sure thats possible with the setup.
Can't wait to see what happens next
The front is where I'd like to see some gain without a full redesign or loss of street manners. Or at least the ability to match the rear without a full redesign or some sort of compromise...
but I'm not sure thats possible with the setup.
Can't wait to see what happens next
Do you have pics of the exhaust routing?
DMC,
great stuff as usual
I noticed the LSPV brake proportion valve is newly mounted on the flatbed. Do you have a system/guide to properly determine the position of it? I am unsure of this on my truck.
keep going, enjoyable reading
great stuff as usual
I noticed the LSPV brake proportion valve is newly mounted on the flatbed. Do you have a system/guide to properly determine the position of it? I am unsure of this on my truck.
keep going, enjoyable reading
This is the same thing as the MAF 4+ arms. My rear panhard is set up this way (MAF 4+), and I was dubious about it as I've had a lot of experience with heims (no failures, but they can get "squeeky")
The big deal as pointed out in getting what you pay for is the teflon bonding process and bearing to race fitment tolerance. Early spherical joints (heims) in 4x4 applications had a lot of premature failure because the teflon bond itself failed, ruining the entire assembly. When you have very tight bearing/race tolerance, grit cannot get in the joint between the bearing and race and ruin the teflon. This seems to work extremely well in the upper rear panhard mount. Control arms will see a lot more grit as they are more exposed.
These "uniball" pressed bushings appear to have a very good daily driver service life. One thing that can be lost in the discussion is the advantage of adding bushings that allow zero compression movement, as this tightens up the link rigidity on big tires to a degree.
I have actually used a dual sided heim joint panhard on a unibody Jeep, and it caused no NVH issues.
The race crowd will use a setup like this because of strength and rigidity, things that translate in some ways to the rock crawling world but not in others. Our issue is more flex vs. mount stress vs. durability, and the Toyota factory rubber does very well in this regard.
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- #137
Give us an RTI, and we shall see how it compares, but it doesnt look close to grahams at this stage, bearing in mind Grahams is parked there in 2wd, without the locker in to take those pics.
And they are actually 16" shocks.
The 4 link front also travels like the back, and drives well on road, though in those pics the sway bar was still connected.
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- #138
DMC,
great stuff as usual
I noticed the LSPV brake proportion valve is newly mounted on the flatbed. Do you have a system/guide to properly determine the position of it? I am unsure of this on my truck.
keep going, enjoyable reading
BEst thing to do is get some fencing wire, and make a template of the shape/position of a std setting, so you know where the standard location is, and then you can play with it from there.
Grahams has a swivel at the diff end from another toyota, to hook it up.
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- #139
will get some for you.
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- #140
Here we go, hope this helps
We are now going to add a resonator to the rear tail pipe, once the Slee tube bar is mounted.
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