Builds Project Resurrection v1.1

[hman913]

May I ask, did you consider coils for the front rather than leafs?

Not really, because I never really intended to link the front end right away. I think the linked rear/leaf front will be a really good combo. I would rather have the stability of leafs in the front. Plus I'm not sure how long the 2F will stay, and I didn't want to have to redo frame and axle side brackets on a link setup if a GM variety engine is in my future.

 

[woytovich]

"if".... Ha!

Given the way this project has morphed even before it is done the first time I suspect you'll have a v8 in it sooner than later.

 

[hman913]

I don't know that I would use "morphed", more like snow-balled into chaos.

 

[watrob]

I am interested to know what distance did you end up with between front to rear axles, the standard 40 is around 90" (I ended up with 96.5" on the current chassis I am working on)?

 

[hman913]

Right now I'm at 107" wheelbase. When I swap in the 14 bolt rear, I will be pushing the WB to ~108.5" to compensate for the size difference in axle housings.

 

[watrob]

That should smooth out the bumps ok, by the way nice work

 

[hman913]

Thank you.

 

[watrob]

Strange, your sitting in freezing cold, it was 30c here today and up north we are just about to be hit in the next couple hours by the biggest cyclone ever in wind speed, they say 275kph to 300kph winds, any house built pre 1985 is to be evacuated as it will be destroyed and the sea surge will be 2 to 3 metres high at coastal area's? some weekend hey?

 

[hman913]

Made some progress over the weekend, after being medically side-lined for a week. Boiled the ring gear, made the wife real happy with the aromatic smell of gear oil in the house and assembled the carrier. My vise isn’t big enough, plus it’s bolted to a wood table-top, so I loaded the carrier into the press and slowly torque everything down.

Pinion with new 1350 u-bolt yoke from WFO and solid spacer

Assembled. When I started cleaning the axle prior to tear-down there was a noticeable binding for about a ¼ rotation of the ring gear which I was hoping was just toasted bearings. All new bearings/races, and everything is happy. The shave netted me 1" clearance.

 

[woytovich]

Manly axle to be sure!

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Beefcake.

Did you also replace the 3rd pinion bearing?

 

[hman913]

Beefcake.

Did you also replace the 3rd pinion bearing?

New bearings everywhere.

 

[hman913]

Finally back to roller status.

With having to redo the link mounts on the axle, I changed some things from how I set up the hybrid. I had plenty of axle width this time around so I pushed the lower mounts out about 1.5”, and moved the upper brackets directly above the axle centerline. The uppers were more of a “no choice situation” because I used some left over brackets that were on the shelf and the pinion support-to-truss connection point is pretty close to the top of the truss as the pinion is rotated at 18*. The new link lengths are 40.75” lowers and 32.5” uppers, again using 2” and 1.5” square tube. The wheelbase is now a cool 108.5”.

The brakes are all early '80s 1/2 ton Chevy, and caliper brackets are from SOLID for a D60 front. If you do order those brackets from SOLID, ask them to drill and tap the slider pin holes square. Didn't cause any problems with installation, just more of an annoyance.

Departure angle increased a bit

Floor clearance for the driveshaft joint

What’s one more Jeep part gonna hurt?

Propane tank mount plates, 3/16” plate top and bottom to sandwich the tub.

By the way... I still have the hybrid rear that I would like out of my garage. Open diff, new brakes, etc. PM me if there's any interest.

 

[woytovich]

Purple... really?

 

[hman913]

Purple... really?

Yup.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Purple... really?

Don't be jealous Mark

 

[watrob]

You are sure pushing ahead with this build, your detail & finish is remarkable.

 

[hman913]

Some progress pics...

To avoid any chaffing of the brake cable on the base plate or assembly, I hollowed out a 9/16" nut and welded to the base plate as a guide for the cable. Downstream of the splitter, was pulled together from a cable repair kit with a drilled clevis pin through the caliper arm. It takes about 4 clicks on the lever to fully lockup the brake.

It's a cozy fit for sure, but everything is within easy reach. I may opt for a shallower dish (?) steering wheel. It will be a tight fit climbing in with Carharts if I decide to do any winter wheeling.

Brake booster and master from a 1 ton T-100. The booster is about 2" larger in diameter than the factory offering, so it contacts the part of the clutch master body and one of the mounting bolts. Put some nuts on the firewall side booster studs to space it out, and everything clears without a problem. New un-rusted steering shaft and u-joint at the box as well.

...and my distraction that requires constant entertainment when I'm in the garage. It's actually less of a hassle to step outside every other minute, because if she's wandering around in the garage she has a fascination with stealing nuts/bolts to run away with and chew on. Cleans 'em up good though.

I've also got a new starter, water temp and oil pressure sending units installed and swapped out the alternator for an internally regulated one. Tomorrow I'll be getting started on the propane kit.

 

[hman913]

Let's see... the propane kit is fully installed. I ended up having to convert to a cable throttle as there was no simple way to use the factory mechanical arm thingy. I have to credit GLTHFJ60 with turning me onto a Lokar 24" stainless cable. Thanks dude.

A little redneck modifying of the factory pedal for the cable clevis end.

I've really got to thank Toyota for their insight in providing me a good factory location to mount the regulator. I made a strut out of some 1/8"x1/2" stock to support the opposite side of the regulator, bolted to the fender.

Interior is basically done.

I was able to get rid of the seat sliders on the driver's side, as my wife was able to reach the pedals with ease. She sacrificed some visibility, but I gained back 2" of head room.


Fenders... some trimming may be required. I like to think of it as weight savings. They used to be some very nice looking fenders with little surface rust. (No current pictures in their chopped state)

Wiring begins Saturday, and hopefully goes easy. Less than 4 weeks to go.

 

[GLTHFJ60]