Builds Project Resurrection v1.1
- Thread starter hman913
- Start date
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Thanks fellas
Are you referring to the bottle jack under the transmission?
Yes. It looks like the bottle jack is sitting on a custom plate that is on a jackstand. Very cool.
- Thread starter
- #43
Just a simple 3 legged stool I made as a first welding project.
- Thread starter
- #44
It was a rather productive evening tonight...
Rear diff locked. Thought it would take longer, but only about 45 minutes including a couple beer breaks.
Frame boxed.
I now just need to cut down some tube for the crossmember, and replace the rear frame section before the linking starts. Hopefully I can knock out most of that tomorrow.
Rear diff locked. Thought it would take longer, but only about 45 minutes including a couple beer breaks.
Frame boxed.
I now just need to cut down some tube for the crossmember, and replace the rear frame section before the linking starts. Hopefully I can knock out most of that tomorrow.
A big weekend so far, relatively speaking of course. I built the front bumper last weekend using 2”x4”x.188” tubing, at the width of the frame, which would essentially became my new front crossmember. Fabbed up some 90* fish plates to tie everything together. A few tacks and some finish welding later, the front end was starting to come together nicely.
Then on to gusseting the front hangers and the long awaited hanging of the front axle.
I set everything at approximate ride height with a 37” tire. Granted there’s still a fair amount of weight to add, I ended up with a 6.5* caster angle and 10* pinion angle, and 30” to the bottom of the front bumper and 26.75” to the bottom of the mid-section of frame rail. I had thought about using 1 or 2 degree axle shims to help with the caster, but I don’t want to go any lower on the pinion. I’m also liking the shackle angle at this point.
I know a lot of this is mere child’s play to some of you guys, but I sat and stared at the chassis for about 20 minutes after I was done last night. I’ve never done anything like this before and it’s exciting to start seeing your vision come to light.
Hey man! im trying to figure out how i want to mount my fj60 housing under my 40 and i was hoping you could share your thoughts and some more detailed pitcures of the shortside spring perch. could you have done a narrower outboarding?
- Thread starter
- #46
Martin, I meant snap a couple pictures for you before I left for work this morning but that didn't happen, and I don't have any decent ones on my phone. So I will remedy that this evening.
I bought my 60 housing already sprung over, with the spring perches at the factory spacing. I don't have a problem with being out-boarded so it never really crossed my mind to move the perches to a factory 40 width. I suspect you could probably move the short-side inwards about an inch, but will take some creativity on your part because you'll be tight against the center section.
I bought my 60 housing already sprung over, with the spring perches at the factory spacing. I don't have a problem with being out-boarded so it never really crossed my mind to move the perches to a factory 40 width. I suspect you could probably move the short-side inwards about an inch, but will take some creativity on your part because you'll be tight against the center section.
- Thread starter
- #47
Martin... a picture for you.
I think you could easily move the perch in 1", which would move most of the leaf pack under the frame. Let me know if you want anything else.
I think you could easily move the perch in 1", which would move most of the leaf pack under the frame. Let me know if you want anything else.
- Thread starter
- #48
Seemingly simple tasks always take longer than expected, but the frame is 100% back together. With the relief cut into the factory frame rail, I sleeved it with 2x4 1/8", and tied everything together with a 2x4 3/16" wall crossmember.
All done. Time for some suspension work.
I set the rear housing under the frame, and it looks like 106" WB will be easily doable without too much of the tire sticking out past the rear of the body and looking out of place. Tonight I also setup the rear axle shafts and started getting the housing down to bare metal for the truss. More in the next few days...
All done. Time for some suspension work.
I set the rear housing under the frame, and it looks like 106" WB will be easily doable without too much of the tire sticking out past the rear of the body and looking out of place. Tonight I also setup the rear axle shafts and started getting the housing down to bare metal for the truss. More in the next few days...
Lookin good
Frame looks great now comes fun of bolting stuff to it
Martin... a picture for you.
I think you could easily move the perch in 1", which would move most of the leaf pack under the frame. Let me know if you want anything else.
Thanks for sharing, ill see what i can do!
- Thread starter
- #52
Haven’t had too much going on lately, until this past Saturday when I got started on the rear suspension. The rear end was assembled in the morning, followed by a lot of time with the tape measure. The axle side brackets went in easily enough, followed by mocking up the crossmember for the lower links. To get a decent length, and more importantly a shallow angle on the lowers, the crossmember is centered below the parking brake rotor. The only hassle that makes for me is that the transfer case has to come out through the top.
Last night I mocked up and tacked in the frame side brackets for both the uppers and lowers. I don’t have the pinion rotated at the moment, but the lowers should end up at ~38.5” and the uppers ~34”. I followed the 4-link calculator for the most part, up until the packaging constraints of the stock frame dictate what you can and can’t do. The wheelbase is approximately 107.5”, but won’t know for certain until it’s a roller and the front leafs are equally compressed. Depending on the availability of my upper link material, I hope be cutting tube tonight and maybe cycling.
Free space on the axle is becoming a premium so I may end up having to rotate the lower brackets down to better fit the coil mounts. The other alternative is to explore coilovers or air shocks but with cutting the rear floor not being an option, the suspension travel would probably suck because their mounting would be from the rear of the axle tube to the tubular crossmember. That approximate distance is 20.5” which puts me in the 10” shock range. Thoughts?
Some pictures…
Last night I mocked up and tacked in the frame side brackets for both the uppers and lowers. I don’t have the pinion rotated at the moment, but the lowers should end up at ~38.5” and the uppers ~34”. I followed the 4-link calculator for the most part, up until the packaging constraints of the stock frame dictate what you can and can’t do. The wheelbase is approximately 107.5”, but won’t know for certain until it’s a roller and the front leafs are equally compressed. Depending on the availability of my upper link material, I hope be cutting tube tonight and maybe cycling.
Free space on the axle is becoming a premium so I may end up having to rotate the lower brackets down to better fit the coil mounts. The other alternative is to explore coilovers or air shocks but with cutting the rear floor not being an option, the suspension travel would probably suck because their mounting would be from the rear of the axle tube to the tubular crossmember. That approximate distance is 20.5” which puts me in the 10” shock range. Thoughts?
Some pictures…
- Thread starter
- #53
Almost could be considered a roller...
Rear end is done save for finish welding and reinforcing some of the brackets. I ended up ditching the previous axle end lower link brackets because of packaging issues with the coil spring mounts. After a quick call to Barnes for a set of their integrated brackets, a couple days of waiting later I was back in business.
Clever spring mounts from TMR Customs with alignment sleeves and anti-crush sleeves.
The lowers are 2"x0.25" sq. at ~38.5" eye to eye, and the uppers 1.5"x0.125" sq. at ~34" eye to eye. Not too sure whether the uppers will stay at 1/8" wall... hoping for some 1.75"x0.25" sq. which the local steel yard rarely has in stock.
I'm hoping to get a majority of the finish welding done this weekend, but to do that I probably need to take the misses out to dinner tonight so my ass is covered for not being around for the next two days.
This coming Tuesday (on my way to wheeling as a passenger for 4 days
) I'll be picking up a hood, fenders and aprons from a NE cruiser parts hoarder, and some steel goods (sliders tubes, beadlock rings and probably some other stuff I haven't thought of yet) from AtoZ Fab.
Rear end is done save for finish welding and reinforcing some of the brackets. I ended up ditching the previous axle end lower link brackets because of packaging issues with the coil spring mounts. After a quick call to Barnes for a set of their integrated brackets, a couple days of waiting later I was back in business.
Clever spring mounts from TMR Customs with alignment sleeves and anti-crush sleeves.
The lowers are 2"x0.25" sq. at ~38.5" eye to eye, and the uppers 1.5"x0.125" sq. at ~34" eye to eye. Not too sure whether the uppers will stay at 1/8" wall... hoping for some 1.75"x0.25" sq. which the local steel yard rarely has in stock.
I'm hoping to get a majority of the finish welding done this weekend, but to do that I probably need to take the misses out to dinner tonight so my ass is covered for not being around for the next two days.
This coming Tuesday (on my way to wheeling as a passenger for 4 days
) I'll be picking up a hood, fenders and aprons from a NE cruiser parts hoarder, and some steel goods (sliders tubes, beadlock rings and probably some other stuff I haven't thought of yet) from AtoZ Fab.
wow! this is going to be awesome! You may need to add a Meatball locker. Ask johnny about their awesome capability!
- Thread starter
- #55
Adam thanks for stopping by! I'm almost scared to ask about a meatball locker.
- Thread starter
- #56
Suspension/chassis is done.
The angle of the lowers are pretty steep at the moment, only so the frame sits flat and easier to work with later on. Body is next.
The angle of the lowers are pretty steep at the moment, only so the frame sits flat and easier to work with later on. Body is next.
looks killer!
maybe you already mentioned this but whats the new wheelbase? or how much further back is the rear axle compared to stock?.
I dont know how you fished the lower link crossmember, but i would recommend making it removable. I didnt expect to have to pull my tranny/tcase only 1 year after completion of my build but it sure was nice to remove my rear crossmember to do so.
maybe you already mentioned this but whats the new wheelbase? or how much further back is the rear axle compared to stock?.
I dont know how you fished the lower link crossmember, but i would recommend making it removable. I didnt expect to have to pull my tranny/tcase only 1 year after completion of my build but it sure was nice to remove my rear crossmember to do so.
- Thread starter
- #59
The final wheelbase should be 107-108", and the rear axle is pushed back ~13" from stock.
The lower link crossmember is fully welded to the frame. I had thought out making it removable, but simplicity won in the end. The crossmember for the transmission mount however is removable. I'm going to lengthen the cut-out in the tub floor so I can easily pull the t-case out through the top, and if the need arises there will be enough clearance to the link crossmember to drop the transmission out the bottom.
By the way, I like manuals too much to swap out to an auto trans
I'm good man thanks. The twin sticks will be right next to transmission shifter, and shouldn't be too much of a reach with a harness.
