Builds Project "Devil Frog" - Isaac's '69 FJ40

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Looking good! I still have that extra winch controller if you still need one.

Vince
I ended up having to replace the original 4 pin connector with a 3 pin, which came bundled with remote. Thanks though
 
does that parking brake cable come in "cut to fit" lengths?
 
With the body back on the frame something became obvious, the turbo exhaust plumbing is in the way of where my steering linkage needs to go.
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I have a few options:
  • Go back to stock FJ40 steering with the relay box/or mini truck power right under the firewall, I would have to ditch the FJ62 PS steering box. BTW, I did not retain the stock relay box and steering box.
  • Fab a different turbo header
  • Ditch the turbo concept all together
I have been working on this build for way to long and am leaning toward the latter option. The turbo kit was designed for an FJ62 and was not part of my original plan anyway, it was an impulse buy when I saw it on the classified section. I still think this motor will put put ~160 hp/250ft-lb to the rear wheels in NA form with the RV cam, bump in compression, port and polish, and MAF elimination, maybe a bit more if I get a header.
 
My vote is for a different header. Who else do you know with 2FE-T?
 
I know it's not Toyota... but can you run a Saginaw box and run the steering shaft below the turbo? You can come by and look at mine to see if there is room.


I would not go back to stock 40 steering.
 
My vote is for a different header. Who else do you know with 2FE-T?
Matt Mcinnes built a very nice one, must have put close to $50k in that machine, but being in the land of Aus and having right hand drive, the steering column does not interfere with the exhaust side.
 
My next suggestion was to convert the truck to RHD.
 
I know it's not Toyota... but can you run a Saginaw box and run the steering shaft below the turbo? You can come by and look at mine to see if there is room.


I would not go back to stock 40 steering.

That me be an option, but I would still need to re install the relay box that sits on the frame rail under the firewall
 
not sure what you mean by relay box. with saginaw, the steering box is out at the front frame x member. very low and out of the way. you can look at mine if you are closer to Rio Rancho.
 
I was thinking that Saginaw used the manual steering box that the stock steering column connected to, but it looks like Saginaw also eliminates the manual box, relay rod, and center rod and the steering shaft goes all the way to the Saginaw box that mounts being the front bumper, not unlike FJ6x power stering on a 40. I found some pictures of the Saginaw setup on Cruiser Outfitters:
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This would still be a problem for me, the piping for the turbo is right in this area where the U-joint is. The manifold was designed for an FJ62 (https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/can-you-turbo-a-3fe.163559/) that has another 2 or 3 inches between the engine and steering column.

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What might work is using a mini truck power steering box which mounts on the frame rail under in front of the firewall.
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The problem there is I have to bring back the relay rod and the center-arm, change drag links, which will end up forcing me to replace my whole steering setup between the draglink and the column. Not to mention all that extra linkage will add a lot of slop back into the system.
 
Hydro Steer with creative steering shaft/linkage placement?

Still thinking a new, custom turbo header is the easiest route if you still want to try to keep the turbo. Or maybe you could just sell it for close to what you paid for it and live with the lower power of no turbo.
 
It actually looks like the down pipe vs the manifold is interfering. The trouble there is the wastegate outlet gets plumbed back into the same downpipe.
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Full hydro can be used on the street but it is not the way to go except in full on crawlers. There is no feedback and the wheel requires constant driver input.

Come look at my Saginaw. The box is mounted parallel to the frame using two Ujoints, one at the column and one at the steering box. There is nothing stopping you from running a shaft parallel to the frame and then two Ujoints to get it up to the column rearward of the down pipe.
 
...Come look at my Saginaw. The box is mounted parallel to the frame using two Ujoints, one at the column and one at the steering box. There is nothing stopping you from running a shaft parallel to the frame and then two Ujoints to get it up to the column rearward of the down pipe.

that's what I was thinking too. you can move that u-joint up or down (longer or shorter shaft from the steering wheel through the firewall) to clear where you need, then down/out to frame and then to box.
 
been thinking about this, I think the steering shaft will clear the down pipe if is moved forward a few inches, past the bell shaped flare:

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Fabbing up a support to allow the steering column to move forward a few inches. Also plugged up the gap that the stock column and shifter fit through.

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Finished up the fuel system too
 
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Well I ironed out the turbo downpipe and steering shaft interference issues. They are still very close so ceramic coat and exhaust wrap are going to help not fry that bearing on the lower part of the steering column. I also patched up the hole in the dash under the gauge cluster, where the OEM column ran. For a cleaner look.
 

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