Project Carbon Control!

[turbocruiser]

Guys,
I saw a set up using a clear glass in line fuel filter. What are your opinions of such a setup in contrast to yours. I can see one for sure price (~$15.00) for the filter. Seems to me that you would have to clean it semi regularly but then again having a clear view of what was in there without disassembly would be great.

Chris

That's where my research started, and stopped soonafter; alotta those are actually another plastic/polycarbonate material that are not recommended for synthetic oils, they also all have a somewhat small capacity, they also all have a filter media that will eventually clog, and lastly many of them are rated for relatively low temperatures. For all those reasons I skipped that setup as soon as I really read into it although I'll admit that the price was right. HTH.

 

[turbocruiser]

What about something like this? Just want your opinions because I have little familiarity with this issue.


http://aircompressorsdirect.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=323

Hard to tell without the specs if it will stand up to the temps in the engine bay and if iit will stand up to synthetic oils etc. Perhaps you can ask about some specs and see if it will work. In theory anything at all like that should work well although its hard to tell how the outlet will work at the bottom.

 

[tarbe]

Just too small. You'd have to empty it every 500 miles in the winter with all the water, I'm guessing.

If you don't mind emptying it all the time, give it a shot.

 

[cpg]

My lines seem to have no oil in them is this only for turbos?

http://cjsupra.kendra.com/PCV-Can.html

 

[turbocruiser]

My lines seem to have no oil in them is this only for turbos?

http://cjsupra.kendra.com/PCV-Can.html

No, its not only for turbos; all vehicles recycle crap through the PCV system, its just that turbos push alot more through on the PCV side and pull & push much much much more through on the turbo side. HTH

BTW, I actually looked a lot at that same thing you posted, seemed cool at first but with the option to pull and push are in and out of that filter I was worried about unmetered air. IIRC the person that wrote that writeup talked about troubles with idle and rev due to the unmetered air. Anyways,

 

[SWCruiser]

Thanks guys. I was wondering about the temperature rating myself. My other option was an inline fuel filter with replaceable element, but wasn't sure about the catch volume and whether the element would clog easily or not be sufficient to collect oil. I guess I could run it for a short time and just keep an eye on it.

I like the jaz catch can. Seems small yet sufficient. I just couldn't rationalize $200 bucks for this mod when it seems to be such a simple device in principle. I agree the machined alum. looks nice but I have to focus exp. on other mods.

BTW, thanks for the information on this issue as I have found oil in the intake and didn't really think twice about it before.

 

[turbocruiser]

I like the jaz catch can. Seems small yet sufficient. I just couldn't rationalize $200 bucks for this mod when it seems to be such a simple device in principle. I agree the machined alum. looks nice but I have to focus exp. on other mods.

BTW, thanks for the information on this issue as I have found oil in the intake and didn't really think twice about it before.

Here is some stuff from that writeup that made me change my mind on the Jazz install.

"""Immediately after installing it, you'll notice the computer has to recalculate for this unmeasured air leak you've created, in effect. I noticed after a day or so of recalibrating by the ECU, the car actually idled noticeably smoother (strangely enough). Unfortunately, while calibrating my VBC, I smacked fuel cut and had to reset my ECU to erase the stored codes. After fully resetting the ECU and making it start from its default baseline, the car now ran noticeably rougher at idle (although no different while cruising). From what I've read, the further the car is away from stock calibration, the longer it takes the ECU to reach optimal, so don't worry if your car runs strange for a little while after doing this. It'll correct itself. Mine stalled out the day after the reset when I put it into neutral at a light and it tried to maintain a 450 rpm idle .

You'll also notice, occasionally, some excess wispy vapor coming out of the K&N if you watch the can with the car idling. This is normal excess moisture getting released from the oil combined with vaporized oil and blowby HC (hydrocarbons). It's this hot mixture that you're no longer trying to burn in vain. And lastly, you'll notice a smell of hot oil/gas coming from the can and your engine area in general. Basically, the car will smell a little like an old muscle car, which also used open PCV systems to maximize power in a day of lesser EPA restrictions.

I've also noted that you have to keep somewhat of an eye (although not an extremely close one) on the can to monitor the vapor. Once the K&N becomes super saturated, the resultant condensation on the filter can make the outside of the catch can rather grimey. Just clean your K&N every few months and you should be able to avoid this. I'm always working on further refinements to this and all my mods, so watch the mods page for further developments. Perhaps I can implement something else to extend the maintanence intervals."""

 

[SWCruiser]

Turbocruiser

It does seem to add more issues while attempting to mitigate the other. I guess it would be nice to have the system you recommend with a site window. I will look into this and also use of an inline filter mayber with a different element. I will post up the results.

Chris

 

[tarbe]

I just couldn't rationalize $200 bucks for this mod when it seems to be such a simple device in principle.

$75 for the Greddy on ebay, a couple bucks for extra hose and some bracket metal/fasteners.

 

[turbocruiser]

$75 for the Greddy on ebay, a couple bucks for extra hose and some bracket metal/fasteners.

Or, $50 for the Greddy/TRD from TurboCruiser!

I do also like the looks of that aircraft apparatus posted above and it is approx $50 IIRC. HTH.

 

[alia176]

question on the catch can for experimental aircraft; where will the drain tube go to? Is there need for another container or do folks simply stick a shut off valve?

 

[IBCRUSN]

The only issue with the least expensive is the mount setup. It assumes you have a smooth spot on a vertical surface. Something I didn't consider when I initially posted was that aircraft crankcase vent systems are drained overboard. The air side of things is not an issue but the snot box drain would be vented to atmosphere ie. PCV leak. I guess the box could be drained into a catch can located lower on the vehicle, say by the frame so it would be cleaner and easier to drain.


The others, specifically the M-20 used to be available for under $100 for the experimental crowd but I haven't seen any recently.

 

[tarbe]

Or, $50 for the Greddy/TRD from TurboCruiser!

Hey! I thought that was mine??

 

[turbocruiser]

Hey! I thought that was mine??

Actually I stated that the can core was free but the TRD logo stamped into it would costya fifty!!! Trust me that TRD thing makes it more effective!

 

[tarbe]

I was at my first meeting of the TLCCH Saturday and while we were doing the usual discussion of mods etc someone asked me if my Greddy would clear a second battery tray.

I realized I had never even thought about that

What a I am, says I. So tonight, I decided to do something about that!

I don't remember who asked the question, but thanks!

BTW - this thing seems to be catching about an ounce of oil every 75 - 100 miles. Now I know where that quart was going every 2500 - 3000 miles. Right into the intake.

 

[alkaline747trio]

El Cheapo solution?
What about one of those? Also, I've been reading about needing two (Here) could/would two be needed/used on my 3FE?

 

[turbocruiser]

I was at my first meeting of the TLCCH Saturday and while we were doing the usual discussion of mods etc someone asked me if my Greddy would clear a second battery tray.

I realized I had never even thought about that

What a I am, says I. So tonight, I decided to do something about that!

I don't remember who asked the question, but thanks!

BTW - this thing seems to be catching about an ounce of oil every 75 - 100 miles. Now I know where that quart was going every 2500 - 3000 miles. Right into the intake.

Now that's a much much much better location to mount that!!! Looks really good there. One question, do you leave the one hose clear so you can see the through the tube or was that just the amount of hose provided with the catch can? Seems pretty smart to be able to actually see anything migrating through there. I'll say that if you are catching an ounce every 75-100 miles your baffle idea's brilliant and working really well, I'm very impressed and surprised by that. Hat's off to you there!

 

[tarbe]

Turbo

The translucent hose is what was supplied with the Greddy. It was not long enough for both "intake and exhaust" so I used it on the side that I thought made the most sense...like you said, I can at least get a visual if oil is making it through the can.

I honestly did not think that big old Greddy would fit over there - so I never trial fitted it. It is pretty tight, but it works. I kinda hated drilling a hole in that lip on the firewall. I can only imagine what the snorkle install must feel like!

And now, if/when I ever grow up and get a winch and dual batteries, I am ready! I want a rear bumper first, though!

 

[alkaline747trio]

What do you guys think about my poor-man's solution?

 

[Buckru]

Tarbe

I asked that question. So let me get this straight. I questioned whether or not a second battery would fit with this setup and within 24 hours you have fabbed a new setup? You truly are anal. I must also admit that that is cleanest engine bay I have ever seen.

Buck