Brief history...I bought my son a 1999 Toyota Landcruiser with 125,000 miles. We put an OME lift kit on and the boots and the original CV axles soon ruptured. After checking around with some of the offroad shops mentioned on this board, I decided to go to Pep Boys and have them replace the axles, hubs and bearings. Reason to go to PB was for the warranty coverage. However, now when my LC gets above 45 mph (to about 70 mph) during acceleration, there is extreme vibration. When I take my foot off the accelerator, there is no vibration. I've taken it back to them twice and they first told me it was the oversized tires (not true because it didn't happen before the axles were replaced). Can you please help me with what the problem could be and what do I need to do to fix it?
Problem with new CV axles - Help (6 Viewers)
- Thread starter imigma
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Trunk Monkey
Moderator
Did you install a diff drop when you did the lift? There are several threads here about aftermarket CVs and issues with their longevity and quality. If by "ruptured" you just mean the rubber boots were town, if possible, I would get the OEM axles back from Pep Boys, have a Toyota dealership (or yourself) reboot them using the OEM kits, and use those.
- Thread starter
- #3
I didn't install a diff drop. I only lifted it 2". Do you think that could be the cause of the vibration? Why is it vibrating only when accelerating at around 50mph? I was thinking of getting reman OEM axles from Toyota and having those put on. Could it be anything else?
Trunk Monkey
Moderator
The diff drop would help with the angle on the CV's and prevent future damage. If they're crap CV's then they could be out of balance at speed. One way to tell would be to eliminate them from the equation - pull drive flanges and front driveshaft, lock CDL and go for a drive.
PB's might have botched the bearing preload; however I would expect them to go over not under. If under loaded you might have wheel wobble, you can check for play with the tuck off the ground.
Most likely issue is the aftermarket CV axles. Aftermarket CV axles are most unpopular around here for the 100.
If they have good splines and are not making noise you're better off servicing the Toyota axles than replacing with aftermarket.
I've run old Toyota re-booted axles for lots of miles without a diff drop on mine and don't expect that would change your issue. Good move yes, solution to this, not necessarily.
Ideally get the old axles back and re-build them with Toyota boot kits but use "the right" hose clamps to prevent leaking on the lifted truck. You can find the McMaster carr part numbers for the hose clamps around here somewhere... the clamps will prevent futher leaking of your new lube.
If they don't believe you do as Trunk says and isolate the front axles and see if the problem clears.
Good luck with it!
If they have good splines and are not making noise you're better off servicing the Toyota axles than replacing with aftermarket.
I've run old Toyota re-booted axles for lots of miles without a diff drop on mine and don't expect that would change your issue. Good move yes, solution to this, not necessarily.
Ideally get the old axles back and re-build them with Toyota boot kits but use "the right" hose clamps to prevent leaking on the lifted truck. You can find the McMaster carr part numbers for the hose clamps around here somewhere... the clamps will prevent futher leaking of your new lube.
If they don't believe you do as Trunk says and isolate the front axles and see if the problem clears.
Good luck with it!
jemsec
Mach lll Club
Trunk Monkey and others are right on target. OEM axles, either rebuilt or new, with a differential drop should solve your issues. Given the design of the front differential, 2" is a big adjustment. Most after market axles are worth exactly what they cost. Not a good idea to begin with. Get the old ones back as they are worth more than the new after market ones you received.
With my 2" lift I did not do a drop and have had no problems for 10K miles knock on wood. I did reboot the axles and have had no leaks.
How would a bad CV cause "vibration"? If OP is referring to a noise then maybe, but if OP is feeling a vibration in the steering wheel or the entire truck at acceleration that would be an uncommon symptom of a bad CV.
Trunk Monkey
Moderator
Poor manufacturing process, bell or shafts out of round slightly.
Why would it be only when on the accelerator, wouldn't an unbalanced axle cause vibration at speed regardless of torque application? Just trying to help OP. I'm sure the PB axles are crap and would definitely suggest getting back to OEM as others have said. I just wonder if he's chasing the wrong problem. If this is associated with the CV install I'm still wondering if he has too much play in the bearings.
Here's the local Bham group.
AL- DixieLand Cruisers
I would probably skip the pepboys for repairs. Any of the 3 local toyota dealers will warranty their work and there are some good independent shops as well.
Trunk Monkey
Moderator
Def. could be that as well, easy way to check those too. Bearings would appear on accel/decel too.
On higher mileage rigs, another point of failure or accelerated wear post lift are your prop shaft ujoints/ spiders. That may be part of the vibes your getting.
If PB didn't get the snap ring gap set correctly (innner&outer) that might contribute to the problem.
FYI- CV's and ujoints driven for 100,000 miles at one angle have been known to quickly fail at the increased/new angles after a lift. Diff drop might help the transition to new angles a bit.
I may have this wrong- but I think the design of aftermarket tulips are different than OEM- fewer bearings. They don't seem to hold up to the angles and torque like Oem.
If PB didn't get the snap ring gap set correctly (innner&outer) that might contribute to the problem.
FYI- CV's and ujoints driven for 100,000 miles at one angle have been known to quickly fail at the increased/new angles after a lift. Diff drop might help the transition to new angles a bit.
I may have this wrong- but I think the design of aftermarket tulips are different than OEM- fewer bearings. They don't seem to hold up to the angles and torque like Oem.
- Thread starter
- #16
Lesson learned. Problem is I still have vibration and not sure what to do. I don't get the sense PB knows what to do either. Could be a costly mistake. Should I just start over w/ reman Toyota CV axles and hubs/bearings (cheapest alternative) and take it to Toyota?
- Thread starter
- #17
Also, Roll Tide
roll tide. I'd call the pepboys and see if you can get the stock CV axles they took out back at the very least. They may have just needed to be rebooted, but if they were worn you could have them rebuilt or to keep as spares.
Before you throw parts at it, make sure you know what the issue is. If these problems didn't exist before the lift even with the split boots, then the cheaper cv axles or install would be the culprit.
I use Franklin automotive for my DD volvo s80 and they are known to be a quality, honest shop. I know they work on toyota/lexus vehicles as well.
Franklin Automotive in Birmingham | service | repair | lexus | volvo | toyota | honda | acura | nissan | infiniti | vw | audi | - Birmingham, AL
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Had the same vibration after replacing both cv's with aftermarkets. I'm with Trunk Monkey, check your bearing preload/torque sequence. After checking with mud, I backed off nut and lock nut and correctly torqued/preloaded bearings. Acceleration vibration gone. Thanks to all members for contributing to this great site. Props guys.
