Previously ran, used cheap end inductive timing gun and now won't run... (1 Viewer)

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Long version... Hooked up gun as directed, clip to spark plug wire #1, red to pos on battery and black to neg on battery. Started truck up with choke out 1/4 knob and was pointing gun at sight window. Started to hear a odd low wooo wooo noise, put gun down and stood near driver fender to listen then heard a distinct electrical popping noise so quickly shut truck off.
Disconnected gun and tried to start up truck. Caught but stalled out immediately. Alt gauge reading 10. Previously on ACC would jump to an easy 14. Replaced engine fuse tho not blown. Now attempts to start truck will not even crank. Did I blow my alternator? Or simply fusible link? I have pulled the fusible link end apart and going to pick up more wire to replace. Where the white cap male end unplugs from female end it does have slight burnt smell.

 

[gregnash]

Yeah sounds like you may have blown that link, but I would only try to replace with Fusible Link WIRE if you can cleanly pull everything apart. @beno says that they are still available from Mr. T so pick one up.

 

[Mace]

Easiest to check to see if you are getting power to the other side of the fusible link.

 

[Spike Strip]

The timing light wouldn't do anything, unless, perhaps, the induction lead that was around the #1 plug wire somehow touched the back of the Alternator and the shorted an exposed lug, or something...

If there isn't an obvious fried wire, then as Mace says, check continuity across the FL.

If you do need a Fuse Link, @Coolerman now has a reproduction available. It is NLA from Toyota. If You're going to fix yours, you will need the correct gauge FUSIBLE LINK wire and length, somewhat difficult to find in the correct gauges at your local Auto Parts slinger.

On this page under "Fusible Links"

Cruiser Wiring

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Yeah sounds like you may have blown that link, but I would only try to replace with Fusible Link WIRE if you can cleanly pull everything apart. @beno says that they are still available from Mr. T so pick one up.

Rebuilt the fusible link end already. Its a no go. Key to ACC and I'm barely getting 8 on the amps gauge. To ignition it cranks and cranks but will not turn over.

 

[Output Shaft]

The engine doesn't need the alternator to start OR run if the battery is good.
Do the horn & headlights work?

Nothing connected directly to the battery terminals can fry a fusible link. Even if you short the batt across the lugs with a freaking long screwdriver. The link is down stream of the lugs. A winch, drawing 400 amps won't fry the FL.

The inductive pickup of the timing light is only sensing the barely detectable high voltage pulse through the insulation of the spark plug wire. You can grab on to a spark plug wire while the engine is running and it's safe. You can also wrap a bare copper wire around the spark plug wire insulation and ground it to the body and that's safe.

If the timing light shorted out, it would fry the timing light, not the fusible link.

I know this sounds unlikely, but my guess is that hooking up the timing light (if it was done correctly) and the electrical malfunction that happened a little while afterwards is not related.
Just a very strange coincidence.

Correctly connected inductive timing lights don't blow up car electronics.
And it's possible for a meteor to land on a house after a black cat crosses the driveway...

Coincidence

(Make sure that you didn't inadvertently loosen spark plug wire #1. Make sure it's tight).

 

[Mace]

To ignition it cranks and cranks but will not turn over.

So, the starter cranks but the motor does not start? Or the motor flat out does not turn over?? I'm confused by what you have written here.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Now it seems my battery is dead. Key does nothing. Thanks all. Will get a new battery and see how it goes. Grr. Truck had sat for a month plus without driving and I had the battery pulled all that time.

 

[Mace]

How many volts does the battery have?
Seems that you are kinda jumping to conclusions without really knowing what's going on..

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Okay, yes please excuse my jumping the gun. Battery is not dead; I do have lights and horn. Volt meter is reading 12.48. Key in ignition it still won't turn over and as I step on gas and turn the key the amps drop from on the gauge ~10 to down into the lowest edge of orange.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

I'm super amateur here... girl doing her best but some of this stuff overwhelms me the crap out of me. I appreciate all your input. I will add on... I initially bought the timing light to do my timing... only just yesterday got my flywheel cover off and marked the bb and TDC with whiteout and cleaned up the grimy cover and replaced it then was off to work. Last night was evening number two that my tach/rpm gauge was reading numbers I could hear and feel were not accurate. I contacted someone and he suggested I put a timing light on it to check the rpms. So this was the first I used it. This is why I felt "it" caused some funky electrical problem. I have searched through threads on tach misreadings and some discuss the emissions computer being faulty and since the truck is desmoged its irrelevant so I had it disconnected while all the electrical popping was heard... in The Wagon Way I read, "The tach wire off the coil also goes to the air conditioning amplifier. This amplifier is what tells the compressor to turn on as the RPMs increase. The tach wire also goes to the emissions computer located behind the drivers kick panel. There is a speed sensor inside that uses this input" hence why I disconnected it but should I have not?
My misreadings on the gauge were after 11pm w/ temps around 30-32, the first night it went up to 3k and stayed there the entire 15 min ride home. The next day it was fine. But last night as I started her up after work again after 11pm similar temps. She went up to around 700 and stayed there tho i knew for sure she was higher since I had the choke pulled. Getting on the highway she slowly creeped up to 3k and stayed there. I got home and upon shutting her off apparently the gauge remained at 3k until I got in this AM to warm her up in preparing to use the timing light.
Does my tach reading indicate an electrical issue? I have tried to search here on mud other than to ignitor, I swore I read that there is another lead that goes elsewhere?

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Okay, just checked volts with key to ACC and lights on (and seeing a drop on the gauge) volts go to 12.06. Tried banging on the starter incase the bushings are frozen and nothing. I could pull the starter and have it bench tested at Napa?

 

[Spike Strip]

First thing, get the battery to resting voltage of 14.4 or so. Charge it.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

First thing, get the battery to resting voltage of 14.4 or so. Charge it.

Please excuse me for not agreeing but.... I am under the idea that only "with" the alternator it would be 14?

 

[Mace]

I've never seen a resting charge of 14.4 volts..

 

[Spike Strip]

Yes, you're right: resting with a strong batt will be around a little over 13V. I meant 14 when just off the charger or when Alternator is charging, correctly. 11-12v resting and the battery could be dead - or not enough umph to spin a wonky starter.

Anyways, if you're sure the batt is good, then on to the next thing.

 

[micruz60]

Umm seems frustrating, so, let's try Occams razor.
Simple things first...
How clean are the contacts at battery terminals, are the terminals tight?

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

THANK YOU!!! @micruz60 ...and check condition of ground cable...

Could be several things based upon discription, but it seems the alt failed and the battery died and is dying still...charge the battery fully, check cables, reinstall bat and clean terminals/lugs, try again. if you dont see more than 13.6 volts, the alt is dead; check belts and connections at alt; check fuse links for continuity...now, there could be several reasons why the alt might not work, charge light lamp, relay, fuses...belts...

start simple and chase the lines to their ends before going off on a different track...

 

[OGBeno]

, @Coolerman now has a reproduction available. It is NLA from Toyota.

incorrect. Available and in stock. 90982-08135

 

[micruz60]

Some alternator musings here... 40 series
Alternator question/problem