Preventative Head Gasket Replacement? (2 Viewers)

[2001LC]

Well anything is possible and gasket do fail. To bad you didn't get some investigative feed back or pictures from re-builder.

We have plenty of high mileage in the aging fleet of 2UZ-fe engines. We're not seeing head gasket to be and issue without external forces. Toyota made a big PR deal out of a 5 years old Tundra with 1 million mile on it, no HG issues.

I've been doing some searches this morning on head gaskets in the 100 series. I saw years ago some reports of "reported failures" without follow up info. It was said by Christo Slee of @sleeoffroad that he'd heard of a few failure. Note {heard not seen}. He went on to say these were normally reported earlier in the life of the engine. His info was from a Lexus service manager friend. In some case it was noted coolant on outside of head gasket. It some they found to just be coolant leak follow down from above, not associated with head gasket. Others didn't real have any follow up. failed cylinder head gasket at 73000 miles; are there known gasket problems?

The only one's that have given detail of cause, and verified it was not a misdiagnosis, was coolant related every time, at least in my search.

One head gasket failure without reporting overheating, saw coolant level dropping. He saw signs of electrolysis on head gasket. He didn't show a picture of this, but did have a picture of his rig with a lift in his garage, a gear head for sure.
Head Gasket Failure

I've found electrolysis without any "apparent" cause. I say apparent because Toyota records of history clearly show proper PM of coolant. But unless one stands over the mechanic as he works on or does one's own PM, we've uncertainty.

The search for knowledge & understanding goes on.................

 

[joshAUST]

"a 5 years old Tundra with 1 million mile on it"
Thats nearly 550 miles per day, every day, 365 days for 5 years!

 

[96TOYLAND]

Is this the beginning of a head gasket failure, should I replaced asap?? car runs fine. 250k miles, no major coolant leak, oil seems to be fine, I flushed my coolant every 5 years, replaced thermostat, radiator hoses, pesky hose early this year as a PM, couple days ago I was checking my oil and I notice this mark on the block its right above the oil filter. it looks like at some point I had a coolant leak. I check every time I drive the car but I don't see any leaks, how can I test for leaks? any recomendation?? any good mechanics in orange county California? please help

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[saucebox]

Is this the beginning of a head gasket failure, should I replaced asap?? car runs fine. 250k miles, no major coolant leak, oil seems to be fine, I flushed my coolant every 5 years, replaced thermostat, radiator hoses, pesky hose early this year as a PM, couple days ago I was checking my oil and I notice this mark on the block its right above the oil filter. it looks like at some point I had a coolant leak. I check every time I drive the car but I don't see any leaks, how can I test for leaks? any recomendation?? any good mechanics in orange county California? please help

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I'm not experienced enough with this type of failure/problem to give you any meaningful advice, but you'll find a lot more traction in the 80-series forum.

80-Series Tech

1991-1997 : Lexus LX450 and FJ80/FZJ80 Toyota Land Cruiser (J80)

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[2001LC]

First Toyota Long Life (Red) should be flushed the earlier of 30K miles 2 years. Toyota SLL (Pink) evry 50K miles or 5 year. Toyota red or pink leaves a reddish crusty trial where it leaks. That is not a Toyota red or pink coolant leak.

Clean what ever it is. Then see if it returns.

 

[silver02accord]

First Toyota Long Life (Red) should be flushed the earlier of 30K miles 2 years. Toyota SLL (Pink) evry 50K miles or 5 year. Toyota red or pink leaves a reddish crusty trial where it leaks. That is not a Toyota red or pink coolant leak.

Clean what ever it is. Then see if it returns.

I've cleaned this up a bit but is this indicative of a head gasket leak? No oil leaking on the ground or anything, but looks like a lot of "sludge". I cleaned it up and will monitor. It seems both sides are "sludgy". 2006 lx with 212k miles.

I had tightened up the valve cover bolts 8 on each side, 1 or 2 I couldn't reach with torque wrench( saw some evidence there of dirt/sludge/oil) to 4.6 ft lbs. Should I tighten down this head gasket bolts as well? Is there a readily available torque spec for head gasket bolts?

 

[fjcruising]

I mean... it’s possible that there is some seeping ... but have you ever seen a British car under the hood - those are leaks.

seriously though, I think you are alright, it’s a 14 year old car with over 200k on it... there is no oil on the ground? Your first instinct is right, you are probably fine.

 

[AlpineAccess]

If you haven't had severe overheating your head gasket is fine, the 2UZ does not have head gasket issues unlike other Toyota motors. Even those with 400k+ haven't reported HG hiccups. If you've got some junk there it's from something else.

Initial thoughts are valve covers or an oil change technician pouring oil with a shaky hand.

 

[silver02accord]

If you haven't had severe overheating your head gasket is fine, the 2UZ does not have head gasket issues unlike other Toyota motors. Even those with 400k+ haven't reported HG hiccups. If you've got some junk there it's from something else.

Initial thoughts are valve covers or an oil change technician pouring oil with a shaky hand.

There is sludge on both sides so probably couldn't be oil from a tech shaky hand. I did go into tighten the valve cover bolts to proper torque - they were all loose and I previously had noted and cleaned up sludge at valve cover gasket. The sludge at valve cover gasket seemed to be more prevelant at the side furthest from the head gasket bolts, away from the center of the engine. Thanks for the tips--I will post back if changes. My truck runs between 185-196 on fwy speeds this was last weekend with oat of 100 degrees. It did get up to 213 at a drive through oat at 110 deg. so I am replacing fan clutch.

 

[2001LC]

I've cleaned this up a bit but is this indicative of a head gasket leak? No oil leaking on the ground or anything, but looks like a lot of "sludge". I cleaned it up and will monitor. It seems both sides are "sludgy". 2006 lx with 212k miles.

I had tightened up the valve cover bolts 8 on each side, 1 or 2 I couldn't reach with torque wrench( saw some evidence there of dirt/sludge/oil) to 4.6 ft lbs. Should I tighten down this head gasket bolts as well? Is there a readily available torque spec for head gasket bolts?

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Head gasket are not replaced, nore head bolts re -torqued as a PM. Head bolts hold the heads on the short block. This is major work, and only done when heads are removed, which is rarely.

Head cover (AKA valve cover) bolts. 53IN-LBf (~4.6ft) is correct and should not be exceeded. But using a 1/4" drive INCH-LBf torque wrench is best for accuracy. All it's bolts can be accessed with a 1/4 drive 10mm socket, universal (swivel) and extension.

The head cover leak(s). In general, leaks are most visible on outside of engine (nearest fender skirts) below the head covers.

Oil seen on intake manifold climbing up it's plums. Is most often from the intake manifold gasket. In the VVT engine this gasket is rubber and shrinks over time. Oil climbs the intake plumbs by capillary action. Oil is coming from within the intake manifold, from PCV system. This "seen" oil can also be from valve cover gasket. So evaluate both can be tricky.

The intake manifold gaskets, are replaced while working on starter & or A.I pump. In any case if intake manifold removed. Consider doing a number of PM services. i.e:
Starter rebuild/replacement.
A.I pump replacement or rebuild.
8 Fuel injector isolator seals replacement Great time to have fuel injector tested and rebuilt. When to Clean or Replace fuel injectors

 

[silver02accord]

Head gasket are not replaced, nore head bolts re -torqued as a PM. Head bolts hold the heads on the short block. This is major work, and only done when heads are removed, which is rarely.

Head cover (AKA valve cover) bolts. 53IN-LBf (~4.6ft) is correct and should not be exceeded. But using a 1/4" drive INCH-LBf torque wrench is best for accuracy. All it's bolts can be accessed with a 1/4 drive 10mm socket, universal (swivel) and extension.

The head cover leak(s). In general, leaks are most visible on outside of engine (nearest fender skirts) below the head covers.

Oil seen on intake manifold climbing up it's plums. Is most often from the intake manifold gasket. In the VVT engine this gasket is rubber and shrinks over time. Oil climbs the intake plumbs by capillary action. Oil is coming from within the intake manifold, from PCV system. This "seen" oil can also be from valve cover gasket. So evaluate both can be tricky.

The intake manifold gaskets, are replaced while working on starter & or A.I pump. In any case if intake manifold removed. Consider doing a number of PM services. i.e:
Starter rebuild/replacement.
A.I pump replacement or rebuild.
8 Fuel injector isolator seals replacement Great time to have fuel injector tested and rebuilt. When to Clean or Replace fuel injectors

Thank you that does make sense regarding leak from intake manifold. There was 1 valve cover bolt I couldn't get to at the back of the engine cylinder 7 DS and it was so loose, not even hand tight. Glad I got to these in time. I will definitely handle those other maintenance items if I need to do this repair on the intake manifold. Is it something I should just monitor or get to sooner rather than later?

Reading up on your other threads I plan on replacing spark plugs(they were done at 120k-going to torque to 16/17ft lbs no anti seize) and replacing coils as well as all my vacuum lines that are showing age. Also replacing vsv valve in engine bay and FPR as PM on my 06' LX and replacing upper and lower rad hoses as a I have a small leak at tstat housing on the "dome", but no evidence of leak from the tstat. I think its crawling up the radiator hose, clamps like original. New fan clutch going in as well.

 

[2001LC]

I will definitely handle those other maintenance items if I need to do this repair on the intake manifold. Is it something I should just monitor or get to sooner rather than later?

*** I have a small leak at tstat housing on the "dome", but no evidence of leak from the tstat. I think its crawling up the radiator hose, clamps like original. New fan clutch going in as well.

Intake manifold gasket, if leaking should be replaced. But most tighten up well enough at operating temp.

The water inlet cap (tstat housing on the "dome",) leaks from; tsatat O-ring not being replaced after cap removed, O-ring not seated properly or pitting on gooseneck and hose. Pitting is from electrolysis.

.

 

[silver02accord]

Intake manifold gasket, if leaking should be replaced. But most tighten up well enough at operating temp.

The water inlet cap (tstat housing on the "dome",) leaks from; tsatat O-ring not being replaced after cap removed, O-ring not seated properly or pitting on gooseneck and hose. Pitting is from electrolysis.

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Thanks for prompt reply. I will definitely check the tstat gasket to ensure seated properly, I did install a new one. I took a pic of the tstat but not a good one of the neck. I will also review for electrolysis, should I just replace the housing if there is pitting or is there a viable repair option?

EDIT: I see the tstat housing/wate inlet is a cheap part-replacement makes sense in that case thank you.

 

[2001LC]

Remember, anytime cap removed to replace gasket (O-ring). Sung nuts evenly, than torque to 13lf-lbf.

BTW: I use only OEM hoses and clamps. They're the best fitment and last the longest.