Pre-Pressed Wheel Bearing Kit

[ExpeditionMan]

All,

The front wheel bearings on my '13 LX570 are getting a bit noisy so I am going to replace them while doing a brake job. I want to order a pre-pressed kit and via the search function have found that Cruiser Outfitters offers a pre-pressed kit. I also found Blue Pit Bearings although they call out every Toyota 4x4 (including Tundra's) other than the 200 series on their site. I was unable to find the Cruiser Outfitters kit on their website does anyone have a direct link? Alternatively, anyone care to share their experiences with either of the named pre-pressed solutions or offer another?

 

[CharlieS]

I can't comment on the kits, but I can say that I've always had great experience with Cruiser Outfitters. Kurt is one of us, and he has a great crew. I would default to doing business with him over some other generic shop. With Crusier Outfitters you KNOW you are getting the right part for your cruiser. If you don't see it online, just give them a call.

This is also Cruiser Outfitters web site - gen Toyota and it is even less than the Blue Pit kit by a little:

Front Hub - OEM Toyota - Fits 200 Series (FAHUB200KITOEM)

Toyota Land Cruiser Front Axle Parts

cruiserteq.com

 

[ExpeditionMan]

I can't comment on the kits, but I can say that I've always had great experience with Cruiser Outfitters. Kurt is one of us, and he has a great crew. I would default to doing business with him over some other generic shop. With Crusier Outfitters you KNOW you are getting the right part for your cruiser. If you don't see it online, just give them a call.

Thanks for the recommendation. @cruiseroutfit any assistance?

 

[CharlieS]

Thanks for the recommendation. @cruiseroutfit any assistance?

I updated my post with a direct link. CrusierTeq is Crusier Outfitters. It literally took me 30 seconds to find it using Google.

 

[ExpeditionMan]

I updated my post with a direct link. CrusierTeq is Crusier Outfitters. It literally took me 30 seconds to find it using Google.

Ugh... I was using the wrong site... Cruiser Outfitters - http://www.cruiseroutfitters.com/

Thanks, apparently I need some more time to wake up.

 

[ExpeditionMan]

Still relevant so posting here... The CruiserTeq site has the kit (thanks CharlieS), however I wanted to confirm that no additional seals are needed. Specifically 90301-99182. Thoughts?

 

[CharlieS]

You'd probably get an application specific and quicker answer if you just email info@cruiserteq.com, info@cruiseroutfitters.com or call them at 801-563-1277.

 

[CharlieS]

Also, while you're on the phone, it might be worth ordering the big nut (43501 in the pic above - allegedly non reusable, although many of us reuse them), cotter pin (can substitute a generic pin) and the nut locking cap (43525 in the pic above). Better to have the parts and not need them (trail spares) than to get stuck in the middle of the job because you didn't buy them.

Plus be prepared for the high torque needed on that nut (several hundred lbft), and know you'll need a 39mm 12 point socket. And possibly a small extension to properly torque those bolts between the hub and bearing carrier (@bloc posted one recently -> Big brakes for 08-15 using 16+ parts - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/big-brakes-for-08-15-using-16-parts.1284887/post-14453076 17mm torque adapter. I got a Mac Tools XB217MMR for about $30. This is needed to properly torque the bolts between the bearing and knuckle.)

 

[bloc]

@ExpeditionMan you will need 90301-99182 if it isn't included.. I'd reach out to Kurt to see whether it is.

The pictured oil seal goes into the back of the knuckle and seals between it and the CV, mostly keeping dirt and water out of the hub. When I just did my brake upgrade I left that seal in place to avoid having to break loose the ball joints and impact my alignment. My bearings are still good though so I'm confident there wouldn't have been any play to wear out that seal.. if yours are making noise you probably should take the step of loosening the lower ball joint bridge so you can get the cv out of the knuckle and do that seal.

Also note in the FSM you are not supposed to lubricate the threads or contact surface of the large CV/hub nut, no loctite, just clean/dry threads and surfaces. At least on my 2013 the nut is reusable per FSM, unsure of other years. But what Charlie said.. all good info. 251ft-lbf torque wrench is needed.

 

[grinchy]

I did this four years and 25,000 miles ago, so recollection might be hazy. Replacement is performing good so far.
I used a generic Tundra part off of Amazon. No issues so far. If I recall they were $100 each or so.
It did come with the additional seal, which I didn't put in place. It didn't come with an additional small thickness/large diameter rubber o-ring (99182 in the diagram above) which was in behind the bearing. That I reused, but probably shouldn't have.
My logic was even if these bearings lasted 50k, I'd be ahead $, and probably it would be fine and run for 100k or more. It's not much more work than a front brake job, four bolts on the hub, a quick puller to get the bearing off, and messing around with the axle nut.

 

[bloc]

I have a Genuine Toyota bearing on the shelf but it turns out my bearing splitter isn't large enough to get the hub flange out of my old one. Currently evaluating whether I want to use this as an excuse to get another tool (which I won't use again for five years or so) or just buy the new hub flange.. which would satisfy my OCD against surface corrosion.

Either way the part is made by Koyo, so that could be a very high quality replacement if you wanted to go aftermarket.

Or, give Kurt the business and know it's all factory stuff.

 

[linuxgod]

Still relevant so posting here... The CruiserTeq site has the kit (thanks CharlieS), however I wanted to confirm that no additional seals are needed. Specifically 90301-99182. Thoughts?

View attachment 3019142

View attachment 3019143

Pick up the phone and call Kurt. Those guys are experts and will gladly answer any questions you have in my experience. I think I had the part in ~2 days. Had to pay for shipping but no tax.

 

[tincan45]

Pick up the phone and call Kurt. Those guys are experts and will gladly answer any questions you have in my experience. I think I had the part in ~2 days. Had to pay for shipping but no tax.

This - Plus you get "Jeeps are sh*t" stickers. How can you put a price on that?

 

[ExpeditionMan]

Thanks everyone! Appreciate you pointing me towards a solid vendor and for the tips on the job.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Still relevant so posting here... The CruiserTeq site has the kit (thanks CharlieS), however I wanted to confirm that no additional seals are needed. Specifically 90301-99182. Thoughts?

View attachment 3019142

View attachment 3019143

The 90301-99182 is an o-ring and is included with all of our kits:

Part# FAHUB200KITAFT - Import 200/570 Front Wheel Hub/Bearing Assembly (LH or RH)
Not currently on CruiserTeq, call to order.

Part# FAHUB200KITOEM - OEM 200/570 Front Wheel Hub/Bearing Assembly (LH or RH) - Best Option
Available here: Front Hub - OEM Toyota - Fits 200 Series (FAHUB200KITOEM) - https://cruiserteq.com/front-hub-oem-toyota-fits-200-series-fahub200kitoem/

Part# FAHUB200PKIT - OEM Toyota 200/570 Front Wheel Bearing Overhaul Kit (Sold Per Side)
Includes:
1 x FAHUB60030 - Wheel Bearing Assy
1 x FA83001 - Inner Wheel Seal
1 x FA99182 - Wheel Hub O-Ring
1 x FA87001 - Outer Wheel Seal
Available here: Front Wheel Bearing Overhaul Kit (One Side) - Fits 2008 - 2021 200/570 Applications (FAHUB200PKIT) - https://cruiserteq.com/front-wheel-bearing-overhaul-kit-one-side-fits-2008-2021-200-570-applications-fahub200pkit/

 

[ExpeditionMan]

@ExpeditionMan you will need 90301-99182 if it isn't included.. I'd reach out to Kurt to see whether it is.

The pictured oil seal goes into the back of the knuckle and seals between it and the CV, mostly keeping dirt and water out of the hub. When I just did my brake upgrade I left that seal in place to avoid having to break loose the ball joints and impact my alignment. My bearings are still good though so I'm confident there wouldn't have been any play to wear out that seal.. if yours are making noise you probably should take the step of loosening the lower ball joint bridge so you can get the cv out of the knuckle and do that seal.

Also note in the FSM you are not supposed to lubricate the threads or contact surface of the large CV/hub nut, no loctite, just clean/dry threads and surfaces. At least on my 2013 the nut is reusable per FSM, unsure of other years. But what Charlie said.. all good info. 251ft-lbf torque wrench is needed.

Did you put any sealant, grease, or anti-seize between the hub and the knuckle? I dont see any direction to do do in the FSM but can see this as a way for water to get in.

 

[CharlieS]

If you got the kit from Cruiser outfitters, it has everything you need including o-ring and seal. I'd just follow the FSM. And Cruiser outfitters are always helpful when I call, it is a benefit of dealing with people that know cruisers inside and out, unlike buying from some random internet site.

 

[bloc]

Did you put any sealant, grease, or anti-seize between the hub and the knuckle? I dont see any direction to do do in the FSM but can see this as a way for water to get in.

View attachment 3038130

I did put a little grease in there mainly to avoid surface corrosion of the clean faces. Water won't be getting in past the oring that seals the hub bearing to the knuckle. The flat surface outside of that.. maybe a little.

I wouldn’t put anti-seize in the area behind the oring because the ABS sensor could get fouled by it.