Power Windows and Door Locks--Permanent Fix! (2 Viewers)

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The wiring in the video would work. However you would have to modify the factory wiring in the 62 to accommodate that system, if you want the lockout switch to work as intended.

A much simpler way would be to use the factory wires and switches to trigger the newly installed relays.
The relays would switch the current for the window motors ( 5-7 Amps ) and the factory switches would only switch the current needed to trigger the relays ( .1 Amp ) All switches work as before, including the lockout switch. ( I should post the diagram. I’ll draw it up tomorrow and post it )

I guess I owe you a donut. Sometimes I forget about the rain and bad weather, we’re sooo
“ lucky “ here in LA. Nothing but Sunshine!!!

I think the replacement for the solenoid would be a newer style door lock motor. I was going to do that before I figured out my problem. I will post a picture of the one I’d install. If I remember correctly it’s made by DEI.
Much stronger than others on the market. Part number DEI 524N

Thank you for the kind words on my install. I ordered the connectors from Digikey.
That'd actually my intention is to use the factory wiring to signal the relays, basically installing them electrically between the factory wiring connector and the motors & solenoids. The great thing about my plan is that since the driver's window is already relay fed in the OEM configuration, there is no need to add extra window relays to the driver's door window circuit; only the other three doors. Because of this the auto down function isn't lost.

Also though this didn't happen in my rig, I've had a couple Mudders tell me that their driver's door window worked faster than before when I refurbished their relay boxes. I suppose depending on the internal condition of the relay contacts that could be a factor, just like with the contacts in our switches.
 
As I promised, here is the diagram. Hopefully it makes sense.
IMG_0955.jpg
IMG_1706.1.JPG

The diodes are 1N4001 or similar.
 
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As I promised, here is the diagram. Hopefully it makes sense.View attachment 3082947View attachment 3082953
The diodes are 1N4001 or similar.
Gotta say I'm pretty enamored with how clean of an installation you made. I should hurry up and get on this myself. Gotta make a digikey order later today so I'll look for those connectors and terminals (and relay sockets) too while I'm on there.
 
Don’t forget the passenger front door window motor plug is a three terminal plug. Unfortunately I don’t have the part number for that, but it should be easy to find once you looked up the other ones.
I got the relay sockets from Allelectronics. Part number : SRLY-4
 
Don’t forget the passenger front door window motor plug is a three terminal plug. Unfortunately I don’t have the part number for that, but it should be easy to find once you looked up the other ones.
I got the relay sockets from Allelectronics. Part number : SRLY-4
Interesting, I don't remember noticing that my front passenger window motor used a three terminal plug when I had it apart a few weeks ago. I'll have to take a look again. IIRC the plug coming from the switch was, but not the connection to the motor itself. Now I'm going to look again and sate my curiosity....
 
I didn’t remember either. There’s only two terminal in the connector.

I just swapped out the OEM housings for the ones I had. Luckily the terminals are the same, so no problem there.
 
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Is anyone willing to do this for a fee? I will mail you all of my switches and whatever else is necessary. PM me if so.
 
Is anyone willing to do this for a fee? I will mail you all of my switches and whatever else is necessary. PM me if so.
Hi @atlshaun . A good part of the work that is required to fix your power window and door locks with the added relays needs to be done on the wiring in the vehicle. It isn't as simple as mailing in a switch and then plugging it back in place. There are members here who can guide you through this process, but you need to have some minimal ability to cut, splice and run wires in tight spaces. I suggest you read through the thread(s) until you think you understand it fairly well, then copy or make your own wiring diagram and bring this to a car stereo/alarm shop in your area and ask them what they will charge to wire up the relays. Show them pictures and if they are willing to go ahead you (or the shop) can order the mini SPDT relays that are required.

It is worth the effort though. I was just thinking today how sweet it is to have working windows and door locks!
 
Hi @atlshaun . A good part of the work that is required to fix your power window and door locks with the added relays needs to be done on the wiring in the vehicle. It isn't as simple as mailing in a switch and then plugging it back in place. There are members here who can guide you through this process, but you need to have some minimal ability to cut, splice and run wires in tight spaces. I suggest you read through the thread(s) until you think you understand it fairly well, then copy or make your own wiring diagram and bring this to a car stereo/alarm shop in your area and ask them what they will charge to wire up the relays. Show them pictures and if they are willing to go ahead you (or the shop) can order the mini SPDT relays that are required.

It is worth the effort though. I was just thinking today how sweet it is to have working windows and door locks!

Ahhhh gotcha. I’m sure I can do it I just didn’t feel like it. I guess I will have to.
 

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