That'd actually my intention is to use the factory wiring to signal the relays, basically installing them electrically between the factory wiring connector and the motors & solenoids. The great thing about my plan is that since the driver's window is already relay fed in the OEM configuration, there is no need to add extra window relays to the driver's door window circuit; only the other three doors. Because of this the auto down function isn't lost.The wiring in the video would work. However you would have to modify the factory wiring in the 62 to accommodate that system, if you want the lockout switch to work as intended.
A much simpler way would be to use the factory wires and switches to trigger the newly installed relays.
The relays would switch the current for the window motors ( 5-7 Amps ) and the factory switches would only switch the current needed to trigger the relays ( .1 Amp ) All switches work as before, including the lockout switch. ( I should post the diagram. I’ll draw it up tomorrow and post it )
I guess I owe you a donut. Sometimes I forget about the rain and bad weather, we’re sooo
“ lucky “ here in LA. Nothing but Sunshine!!!
I think the replacement for the solenoid would be a newer style door lock motor. I was going to do that before I figured out my problem. I will post a picture of the one I’d install. If I remember correctly it’s made by DEI.
Much stronger than others on the market. Part number DEI 524N
Thank you for the kind words on my install. I ordered the connectors from Digikey.
Also though this didn't happen in my rig, I've had a couple Mudders tell me that their driver's door window worked faster than before when I refurbished their relay boxes. I suppose depending on the internal condition of the relay contacts that could be a factor, just like with the contacts in our switches.