Power window switch (1 Viewer)

Joined
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Hello everyone. I'm in need of some idea's please.
2004 Land Cruiser, drivers window goes down just fine, will not go back up until it feels like it. Sometimes opening and closing the door makes it work, other times not.
All other windows work perfect from that switch.
Pulled the master control switch panel, took it apart to clean the contacts, there are not any to get dirty.
Ordered new switch, plug it in, the light on the master (drivers window) switch blinks twice, pause, repeat.
Stopped blinking, window works perfect up and down. Then nothing but the blinking light again.
No other windows work, put old switch back in, all other windows work perfect, drivers is the same as before, perfect going down, won't go back up.
I did the loss of power reset the windows trick and still nothing with the new switch, but old switch works except for the drivers window.
I have NOT checked fuses as all windows work and the drivers only works intermittently. I am going to check the wiring inside the rubber grommet tomorrow after I do a oil change.
I found this thread but there is no conclusion to it.

Power window master switch not working - can't close window

Any other ideas?
 
Joined
Mar 27, 2012
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Broken wire in the rubber conduit between door and lower kick panel is my guess, which come from experence. That conduit is stuffed with wires. Check each wire. Probably one broken and a couple of others will have their insulation chafed.
 
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Broken wire in the rubber conduit between door and lower kick panel is my guess, which come from experence. That conduit is stuffed with wires. Check each wire. Probably one broken and a couple of others will have their insulation chafed.

Thank you. I will dig into that this weekend and I will report back what I fine.
 
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Just an update, yesterday I ran errands, mowed the lawn and changed the oil in my truck.
It's been raining ever since and I don't have a garage so I have not been able to look at the wiring in the door jamb yet.
 
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It stopped raining, I went to have a look, pulled back the rubber boot that covers the wires, and I cannot see anything. The boot goes deep into the door and door frame, I do not really want to cut the boot open.
Is that my only option? To cut the boot open so I can see inside?
 
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Apex, NC
I too have had broken wires in that boot cause some strange electrical behavior. I'd try rolling it down and then slowly opening or closing the door while holding the window switch up. If you can open and close that circuit using the door, then there's likely a wire missing some insulation in that boot.
 
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The rubber conduit will pop off the door side and then can be pushed back so you can see better. Labcab had the same symptoms that I did. I could roll window down with door closed, but it wouldn't work with the door open.
 
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IMG_1067.PNG
The rubber conduit will pop off the door side and then can be pushed back so you can see better. Labcab had the same symptoms that I did. I could roll window down with door closed, but it wouldn't work with the door open.

I did that, but the boot extends several inches into the door and can't be compressed enough to expose all the wires.
This is a picture of the passenger side wire harness, you can see how far the boot extends into the door.
I will have another look, but I could not compress the boot very far.
 
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You can unplug the wire harness from the main wiring and pull the wire/wire-plug out of the body. Then remove the electrical tape on both sides of the rubber boot. Now you should be able to move the rubber boot to inspect the wires.
 
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You can unplug the wire harness from the main wiring and pull the wire/wire-plug out of the body. Then remove the electrical tape on both sides of the rubber boot. Now you should be able to move the rubber boot to inspect the wires.

Ah....ok. Thank you!!
 
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Ok, here is a follow up....i cut the rubber conduit open and found 3 broken wires and one almost broke.
I used butt connectors and everything works now.
My drivers power door lock wouldnt even work, I thought it was the motor, but it was a wire.
I am going to look around for a new wire harness and fix it right, but for now...everything works as it should.
 
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I felt like a surgeon, I had to pull a wire end and hold it with needle nose pliers while I stripped it and put the butt connector on, then repeat the other side.
When I replace the wire harness I'm going to try and make sure there is more wire in the door so its not so tight, there is plenty to pull on to "loosen" it up.
 
Joined
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Is this typically found in the drivers door? My windows drive me crazy, and i have replaced the drivers switch and they worked for about 3-4 days, and now just acting up like usual. the drivers window works perfect and the pass side only rolls down when it feels like it, and if it does go down, it doesn't want to go up. the rear drivers side is starting to hesitate too.
 
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Is this typically found in the drivers door? My windows drive me crazy, and i have replaced the drivers switch and they worked for about 3-4 days, and now just acting up like usual. the drivers window works perfect and the pass side only rolls down when it feels like it, and if it does go down, it doesn't want to go up. the rear drivers side is starting to hesitate too.
Yes, the driver side door has a lot of wires and the constant use will wear them.

Do the individual door switches work OK? If your drivers door switch is the inconsistent switch, then definitely look into the wiring between the door and the fuse box in the kick panel.
 
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Jul 4, 2018
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Oregon
Bumping this thread because I need help.

I noticed my passenger front window started intermittently working. When it works, it works perfectly fine. However, after reading this I decided to play with the door and see if that affected the window and voila!

The passenger window will only roll up/down with the driver and passenger switch if the driver door is CLOSED.

Sounds like, obviously, there is a torn or cut wire somewhere in the door jamb area.

My question is, what is the best way to access the wiring? Remove the door card?
 
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Oregon
Remove both the door panel and the lower kick panel. Pull the rubber conduit loose and start looking.
Perfect, thanks. I was just able to remove the kicker panel near the foot well area. When I have some more time i'll set aside a day for removing the door panel and take a look.
 
Joined
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Door panel removal is pretty easy. Don’t get in a hurry, if the panel feels snug, there’s something holding it. Once everything is detached, it comes off easily. There’s a couple of threads on MUD that can help you out if you get stuck.
 

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