Power Supply Options for CB Install

[Chaldaean]

I'm trying to gain some knowledge for an upcoming CB install (here: https://forum.ih8mud.com/electronic-toys/242625-1997-fzj80-cb-antenna-install-advice.html )


As this is a different question, I chose to start a new thread.

I'm tying to figure out how to get power from the battery to the Cobra 18 WX ST II that will be installed in the dash. After reading this thread https://forum.ih8mud.com/electronic-toys/218199-wiring-power-ham.html, it seemed clear to me that I would run two wires directly from the battery terminals to the the CB unit (to eliminate noise etc.); one positive and one negative.

However, after reading the manual for the radio, it tells you to run three wires including one to an "accessory 12V fuse", one to a "constant 12V fuse" and one to the chassis. From what I have read, all of this is a bad move.

Questions:

(1) Should I not get power from a fuse box as the manufacturer suggests?
(2) If I run power directly from the battery terminals, what sort of connector works well and doesn't look horrible?
(3) What does the wire to "accessory 12V fuse" do? Does the CB turn on each time I turn the car on; assuming the knob on the CB is turned on?

Thanks for ironing out the wrinkles; I am very appreciative.

 

[Miescha]

The recommendation to run power directly to the battery serves two purposes. First, it helps prevent RFI (radio frequency interference) or 'noise' and second, it avoids over-loading the tiny factory wires you'll find behind your dash.

For the first purpose, it is still best to go direct to the battery. For the second, it may not matter as much given that your CB will only pull 5w and only transmit 4w - so this is really aimed at Ham radio where 50-100 watt on transmission is common and 200w is easily achieved (you'd smoke your factory wiring at 200w!!!!).

But if you are going to the battery to prevent noise, you'll get the benefit of larger wire anyway (note, you might as well run larger 10-12 gauge wire now so you'll have it ready for the upgrade to ham radio later ). Either way, you'll need to use in-line fuses as close to the battery as possible just to add extra protection from a short that would otherwise overload the wiring. If you are planning for a later upgrade, use the 10-12g wire and a 30amp fuse on each.

As for the orange wire going to an ignition switched fuse - you are correct. This allows the radio to turn on when the vehicle is started and, more importantly, turn off when the vehicle is off to avoid killing your battery if you forget to turn it off. Most nicer radios have a timer feature built-in for auto-shut-off and you can buy an external device pretty inexpensively. I personaly don't like ignition-switched power b/c I often like to have the radio on while the vehicle is off and parked (especially with current gas prices). But, if you don't have a dual battery system, a dead battery would be a real pain. So you'll have to make your own choice on that one.

If you really want to plan ahead, do a quick search in the 80 tech forum on in cab aux power fuse panels and you'll find a TON of stuff on wiring extra 12v accessory outlets, ham radio, cb radio, inverters, amps, fridges (microwaves, hair dryers, curling irons, blenders, toasters, hot water heaters ). This may be over-kill depending on what you ultimately plan for your cruiser (but I'm definitely doing it).

Cheers!

 

[NLXTACY]

Yeah do yourself a favor and bring in a new aux. fuse panel. All the cool kids are doing it now

What I did is WAY overkill for what you need but it will help with doing a simple aux. panel.

 

[Chaldaean]

What I did is WAY overkill...

That seems to be your modus operandi, NLXTACY.

These are the terminals I was looking for! I found them in this 40/55 thread: https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/217352-second-fuse-panel-picture-write-up.html

Yep, I'm going to have to install an aux fuse panel.

'Mud mods.........the work will never be done.

 

[Chaldaean]

As far as aux fuse panels, I like the looks of the Blue Sea 5015, but think I may get one of these:

http://www.painlessperformance.com/assets/08Catalog/page34.pdf

from PainlessPerformance as it "provides both constant and ignition hot circuits". I'll probably stick it in the same place as cartercd did.

I'd like to have the CB only active when the key is in the ACC postion. If it was constant power, I'm sure I would forget forgetfully leave it on someday and drain the battery.

Of course, if I get those Metaltech sliders, I can tuck a second battery underneath the truck. Then my problems would be solved....

 

[Miescha]

Yeah do yourself a favor and bring in a new aux. fuse panel. All the cool kids are doing it now

Even the non-cool nerdy kids are doing it (that would be me ).

That seems to be your modus operandi, NLXTACY.

Yep - anytime I see NLXTACY posting up a project 'how to' regarding something I've already done, I know before I click the link that I will end up feeling inferior. It sucks to be the non-cool nerdy kid.

These are the terminals I was looking for! I found them in this 40/55 thread: https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/217352-second-fuse-panel-picture-write-up.html

Those terminal blocks look pretty stout and leave you with a clean looking install, but you probably need to crimp/solder an end cap cover on the wires before inserting them (and maybe it is there, I just can't see it in the pic). Otherwise, when you tighten down the set screw you will mash (technical term) the stranded wire leaving you with very little contact and, ultimately, broken wire strands and no contact. I think this is why so many mudders go with the military terminal connectors and then crimp/solder an end terminal-ring followed with heat shrink for that 'professional' look.

Of course, if I get those Metaltech sliders, I can tuck a second battery underneath the truck. Then my problems would be solved....

The metal tech or other sliders are best for a THIRD battery or air tank. For a second battery, just use the factory location in your engine compartment after relocating the wiper-washer-fluid bottle. If you haven't found this option, keep searching and break out your wallet - you'll enjoy what you find (but your wallet may not).


Cheers!

 

[Chaldaean]

I think this is why so many mudders go with the military terminal connectors ....

Well, I looked into those "car audio" terminals pictured above. For a quality set, you have to shell out $60 for the pair. So, this mudder, at least, will go with the military terminal. McMaster actually sells them for less than $5.

...you'll enjoy what you find (but your wallet may not).

Just ordered up a set of Metaltech sliders this afternoon! You are correct; my wallet doesn't agree with the decision.

 

[NLXTACY]

That seems to be your modus operandi, NLXTACY.

These are the terminals I was looking for! I found them in this 40/55 thread: https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/217352-second-fuse-panel-picture-write-up.html

Haha, I don't usually start out that way. I just start thinking about what I need then add in what I want. Then I realize it wouldn't take much more effort to add in everything. Then once I start I add in more things as I learn/read/think. Sometimes, ok all the time, it tends to go overboard. BUT it means less work for me later

BTW, I'm not a big fan of those battery clamps. I've seen cables get worked loose on more than one occasion. If you want to use those I would consider using those solder pellets with it.

 

[NLXTACY]

Yep - anytime I see NLXTACY posting up a project 'how to' regarding something I've already done, I know before I click the link that I will end up feeling inferior. It sucks to be the non-cool nerdy kid.
Cheers!

Hahahaha, am I THAT bad?

Wait until you guys see my solar panel install and my drawers

 

[Miescha]

Hahahaha, am I THAT bad?

Wait until you guys see my solar panel install and my drawers

I hope you're talking about cargo area drawers and not your undershorts. I don't even want to know what you call your 'solar panel' - is that a euphamism?



On the serious side, I should have known you would be doing cargo drawers - b/c I just started sketching some aluminum drawers with built-in tool storage and built-in amp, sub, and ham radio storage along with quick disconnects for same. Damn, I might as well stop and wait for your solution.

 

[NLXTACY]

I hope you're talking about cargo area drawers and not your undershorts. I don't even want to know what you call your 'solar panel' - is that a euphamism?



On the serious side, I should have known you would be doing cargo drawers - b/c I just started sketching some aluminum drawers with built-in tool storage and built-in amp, sub, and ham radio storage along with quick disconnects for same. Damn, I might as well stop and wait for your solution.

Well you got me beat there. I am still sticking with wood. But I have a VERY shallow drawer planned that will be my tools....set in foam (a place for everything and everything in its place)...that will be under the planned fridge. The drawers are going to be sized for Plano plastic organizers and my Pelican EMT kit.

I am going with a bulk head connector and use some cat5 cable runners for cable management. fan w/temp sensor to help reduce heat. I was working in a custom made water tank until I found this:
Flexitank | Pillow Tanks | ContainerPac | 4WD & SUV Vehicle Flexitanks | Inflatable Marker Buoys | Flotation Devices

 

[Kofoed]

One thing I would add for a dash-install, is to use a 90 degree elbow connector at the back of the radio, then hook the antenna connector to it.


Jamming the radio back as far is can go will eventually break the center conductor of the coax and cause problems. The stranded wire center conductor goes around bend more easily, but they ain't as available and you will likely have to make up your own.

 

[NLXTACY]

I hope you're talking about cargo area drawers and not your undershorts. I don't even want to know what you call your 'solar panel' - is that a euphamism?



On the serious side, I should have known you would be doing cargo drawers - b/c I just started sketching some aluminum drawers with built-in tool storage and built-in amp, sub, and ham radio storage along with quick disconnects for same. Damn, I might as well stop and wait for your solution.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/243620-operation-overkill-drawers.html

 

[Chaldaean]

One thing I would add for a dash-install, is to use a 90 degree elbow connector at the back of the radio...

Thanks for looking out, Kofoed. Luckily, I had also read Hayes' post IH8MUD™ Forums - View Single Post - CB dash install in a '93 FZJ80 about adding the 90 degree connector as well and ordered one up. I picked one up on eBay and it arrived yesterday.

I can't wait to get this stuff in the in the truck!

Thanks again, Kofoed.