Power Steering Pump Rebuild *writeup* (2 Viewers)

[ElliottB]

I wouldn't think it'd make a difference in performance so much, but the right fluid could easily deteriorate the seals. You've been running the PS fluid since you rebuilt it?

I rebuilt it and it sat on my motor for 2 months before I was able to drive it. I just filled it up with PS fluid last night and tried to take it for a spin.

What is the method for bleeding all of the air out? I've cranked the wheel (painstakingly) fully left and right. Added more fluid. No help.

 

[D'Animal]

Did you jack up the front end and get the tires off the ground when you purged the air from the system?

 

[ElliottB]

Did you jack up the front end and get the tires off the ground when you purged the air from the system?

I did not. Should I jack up the front end and crank the wheel left to right with the reservoir cap off?

 

[ElliottB]

I think I found my problem. Fairly certain I installed the springs and fins wrong. I'm going to pull it apart and swap it around.

 

[ElliottB]

The springs and plates WERE in there wrong. I pulled the pump apart and put them in correctly. I now have power steering but there is a violent vibration in the steering wheel. It becomes a softer vibration as RPM's increase but still obvious. Any ideas?

Thanks for all of the help guys!

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Could the vibe be a result of air in the ps system? I've got a vibe in my wheel from 27-34 mph or so, maybe it's because of the same reason.

 

[ElliottB]

Could the vibe be a result of air in the ps system? I've got a vibe in my wheel from 27-34 mph or so, maybe it's because of the same reason.

Good question. How do you purge the air from the system?

 

[Elbert]

I wonder how many people have good luck with rebuilding those things...?

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Good question. How do you purge the air from the system?

Put the front axle on jackstands. Fill up PS res. Fire the engine up and turn lock to lock, slowly, a number of times. Fill up PS res. Repeat.

As I understand it, keep doing this until you can no longer put fluid in. Once that is done, it should be full of fluid, not air. Be careful not to fill the res up too high each time, or the bubbles coming up will spray fluid all over the place.

Oh yeah, and use ATF

I wonder how many people have good luck with rebuilding those things...?

Can't be any harder than rebuilding a front axle, or a transfer case. Just not as well known territory.

 

[crackdpot]

Thanks for your pain.
In the middle of my rebuild....I only let 2 of the 24 springs fly....
prayed and found'em both.

You said you ended up with a large O-ring left over....The housing comes off at both ends with the fixed ring between. The big O-ring you had left was the seal between the other end of the housing and the fixed ring. Found this out by accident actually, when I tapped the housing apart, I ended up with the fixed ring stuck in the other end of the housing than shown in your photos.....I thought for a minute and said...,"hmmmm.", decided I didn't break it and went to double check.
Looked in the manual and indeed, 2 ends and a middle thingy. Not gonna' be quite as easy tapping those (housing/fixed ring) apart, I'm afraid.

Thanks again for your pain.

 

[crackdpot]

BTW, after I've taken it all apart, I found that the "little screw at the rear of the pressure control valve was missing, as was the washer and seemingly, the o-ring.

Guess I wait til monday to call the dealer and see if they can get me one.

FYI, I removed the brass seat from the rear of the 22mm by using a nail and grinding the tip round (so's not to score the interior) and gently tapping it out.

Thanks.

 

[daviesl]

that plunger with the filter screen on it, behind the 22mm nut, I noticed you can take it apart, what's in it? It looks like a pressure relief valve. If that's the case I am thinking, since the o-rings were so dry and brittle in the rest of the pump, that if you don't rebuild that part (if there are o-rings in there) the pressure would not be able to reach the proper level (as there would be bypass past the o-rings) meaning you'd end up with weak power steering. Problem was there was no copper crush washer in the rebuild kit (one is used on the plunger), wouldn't they have provided one if that part was supposed to be taken apart during a rebuild? I'm going to do it anyway and just reuse the crush washer. I'll let you know if it was necessary afterwards.

 

[daviesl]

correction, it's a 24mm nut. Anyhow, I took the thing apart and there are no o-rings in the plunger. the piece with the screen comes off as a bolt (it has a 1.5mm hole on the other side of the screen so if yours is gunky you should take it apart to clean it, mine was clean both sides) next is a ball bearing, then a little metal plunger, then the spring, no seals (except the ball). I have a few small o-rings left after rebuilding the pump, can that press-fit thing on the side come out? I thought it was just a channel, anything in there? I'm getting a saginaw anyway. Cheers, thanks for the info and pics, I gotta buy a camera.

 

[Southbound]

Anybody have any idea what the torque should be on the five bolts holding the pump together?

thanks!

 

[Southbound]

another question, I opened up the main shaft (not sure why, don't see anything to replace there), and all the springs popped out. Wondering how they were in there - I know it's four per channel, but are each of the four interlaced or are they separate?? Thanks!

 

[Southbound]

Figured out the springs - they go horizontally.

 

[Southbound]

So it looks like the piece that goes behind the big 22 or 24 mm bolt is backwards in the photos above. May want to doublecheck it yourself if you're doing a rebuild - the diagram is in the chassis manual. May be why the rebuild didn't seem to work for the OP...

 

[PabloCruise]

What was done about the worn front bushing?
You know, the one that allows the shaft to move sideways and eat the seal.

Good question. My rebuild started leaking too soon after rebuild -

What is PS fluid? Is it glycol? Silicon? Petroleum? synthetic? 10wt? 5wt? 40wt?

Stuff that is sold as PS fluid is scary because it doesn't meet the PS standards for anything.

I heard someone talking about using dextron 4 ATF - wonder if this will meet the spec. I'll have to do some research.

 

[FJ40Jim]

The spec for Toyota PS is dexron.
So yes, dexron will meet the spec.

 

[PabloCruise]

The spec for Toyota PS is dexron.
So yes, dexron will meet the spec.

4 is synthetic, eh?

I wonder about any compatibility issues w/ seals or old fluid.