power steering cooler?
- Thread starter DiscoveredLC
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- Thread starter
- #22
Well, this ain't a Rover so you'll have decent power while using the A/CIn a dusty convoy situation the A/C will be used on recirc mode quite frequently- at least that's the case with me anyway.
If you had a smaller, narrower cooler, it can easily be placed in front of the trans cooler. That's a popular place for it from what I've seen.
I might go that route. I'll see if I can pick one up from summit today since they have some nice universal ones on their website.
you think that would be enough though? Seems even smaller than the stock one. I guess the fins make a huge difference in heat transfer though too.
Search Results for power steering cooler - SummitRacing.com
Derale Cooling Products 13210 - Derale Performance Power Steering Coolers - Overview - SummitRacing.com
alia176
SILVER Star
I can only speak for my application: 35"s, aired down 15 psi, turning all day in Moab - no fluid boil over, no mess around the reservoir cap.
You may be able to find something similar but maybe a tad longer, not sure. But, the stock cooler is basically a 2' pipe in a compressed S shape. Just by adding a small cooler and some extra length of PS hose will add to the fluid heat transfer pretty well, IMHO.
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- Thread starter
- #25
ok, so here's the end result! I took the wonderful clamps off of the bent factory cooler and cut/welded up some new one to mount my new cooler. Made two mounts for the cooler, and one extra to keep the hoses from rubbing on the core support.
- Thread starter
- #26
last one
alia176
SILVER Star
ooooooh daddy likes. Big thumbs up. 
On to the next project. I'm standing by to offer moral support and verbal abuse
On to the next project. I'm standing by to offer moral support and verbal abuse
- Thread starter
- #28
ooooooh daddy likes. Big thumbs up.
On to the next project. I'm standing by to offer moral support and verbal abuse
hahahaha
verbal abuse= keeping Matt from doing stupid mods!
verbal abuse= keeping Matt from doing stupid mods!
More like adding more things to your list of things you have to do to your cruiser...(it never ends by the way).
Jack
- Thread starter
- #31
More like adding more things to your list of things you have to do to your cruiser...(it never ends by the way).
Jack
I know! The list is freaking huge!
I keep thinking about my bumper, but then realize I have to build my shock mounts first. The 7100's have been sitting in my spare bedroom for months.
- Thread starter
- #32
Speaking of 7100's, Ali, I thought I remember you talking about taking the hiems out and replacing them with the rubber bushings? They were super noisy on the Rover (drove me nuts listening to them) cause the bolts never fit perfectly.
Did you swap yours out? If so, where did you go to get the bushings?
Did you swap yours out? If so, where did you go to get the bushings?
alia176
SILVER Star
The bushings were for Fox shocks; think they came from Eshocks.com, if memory serves. I did change out the heims for the bushings but after two years, the bushings were disintegrating. On bumps, the shocks were moving about 1/4" up/down. My reason for the bushings were not the clicking issue, but exposure to the elements issue. However, I went back to the heims but I've never experienced any clicking that you and others speak of.
Do you know exactly where the clicking came from in the Rover? I can't picture the heims moving around in their location. Was the through bolt OD slightly smaller than the heim ID perhaps? I use bolts with long shoulder vs all threads, so that helped some I think. I dunno.
Do you know exactly where the clicking came from in the Rover? I can't picture the heims moving around in their location. Was the through bolt OD slightly smaller than the heim ID perhaps? I use bolts with long shoulder vs all threads, so that helped some I think. I dunno.
- Thread starter
- #34
The heims are in great shape, it was just the clicking that got old. The heim ID was just a hair larger than the bolt OD. I went down to a fastener store looking for bolts that had an OD that fit snug, but couldn't. All the bolts had an extended shoulder like you talked about, but the play still made them click. I took some soda cans and sleeved them, which kinda helped. Ill see how they do on the 80 before I replace anything.
Thanks!
Thanks!
Matt, my Fox 2.0 shocks utilize a #8 spherical bearing at each end. Typically I have to replace them about every 8-9 months...especially the lowers. And I've tried FK, Aurora and now the more expensive NMB...can't tell much if any difference in durability. A couple months ago I converted to urethane: Off Road Warehouse - Accessories Bushings ORW Fox Shocks Bushings 5/8" URETHANE BUSHING SET FOR 2.0 FOX SHOCKS.
Not sure if they'd fit your Billies or not. If your spherical bearings are clicking they're worn. Or, like one of my rear upper mounts, the ID of the shock is slightly oversized and doesn't allow a tight fit of the spherical bearing.
Or you could probably find a urethane bushing of the right ID and OD for your Billie ends and then cut or machine bushings from DOM to suit.
IMO the #8 spherical bearings are WAY undersized given the weight of our rigs; I'm tired of replacing them and tired of the expense. I'm seriously looking at moving to a King 2.5" with their huge (relative) #12 spherical ends from their 3.0 to solve my issue (the urethane bushings are working out great in front but because of the additional loading from articulation in the rear they aren't ideal) especially in the rear...
Not sure if they'd fit your Billies or not. If your spherical bearings are clicking they're worn. Or, like one of my rear upper mounts, the ID of the shock is slightly oversized and doesn't allow a tight fit of the spherical bearing.
Or you could probably find a urethane bushing of the right ID and OD for your Billie ends and then cut or machine bushings from DOM to suit.
IMO the #8 spherical bearings are WAY undersized given the weight of our rigs; I'm tired of replacing them and tired of the expense. I'm seriously looking at moving to a King 2.5" with their huge (relative) #12 spherical ends from their 3.0 to solve my issue (the urethane bushings are working out great in front but because of the additional loading from articulation in the rear they aren't ideal) especially in the rear...
- Thread starter
- #36
Thanks for the info, Dan!
I know the ends of the shock are fine, its the bolt not fitting snug thats the issue. I took one of the bolts, placed 20 small baby tack welds around it, stuck it in my drill press, and used an old file to smooth them down. Once the bolt was the right dia., i put it back on the shock and the snug fit kept it from clicking. I could lay under the truck and push up on the body, watching the shock move ever so slightly on the bolt. Guess Bilstein doesnt make the hiems a snug fit on the bolts...
I know the ends of the shock are fine, its the bolt not fitting snug thats the issue. I took one of the bolts, placed 20 small baby tack welds around it, stuck it in my drill press, and used an old file to smooth them down. Once the bolt was the right dia., i put it back on the shock and the snug fit kept it from clicking. I could lay under the truck and push up on the body, watching the shock move ever so slightly on the bolt. Guess Bilstein doesnt make the hiems a snug fit on the bolts...
alia176
SILVER Star
The Bilstein heims are probably 12mm ID is my guess. Have you tried a 12mm shoulder bolt to see if that's a better fit?
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- Thread starter
- #38
No, i dont think so. I went down to R&E Fasteners in sparks, and told the guy I probably needed a metric bolt to fit snug, but all he could find were some standards and they have just a little bit of play. I'll have to look into those and see!
Maybe...but based upon what Matt found it would make more sense for the spherical to be 1/2" and the mount stud to be 12mm...
But a couple measurements will resolve our guesses
Sorry Ali...I accidentally hit the edit button...damn!
- Thread starter
- #40
I took the shock into work and used a dial micrometer in the gun shop to measure the ID of the heim. It came out to exactly 0.5" I would slightly rotate it back in forth in the heim to make sure it was centered and the measurement would stay around 0.495-0.500, so basically 1/2"
I had a few employees ask me what I was doing with a hydraulic ram at work. hahaha
I had a few employees ask me what I was doing with a hydraulic ram at work. hahaha