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All locker were on. My side was front was getting some air at that time.

Thats the classic front end snap scenario when front locker is engaged… :( (all force applied to one side of front when one side without contact).
 
Just for a rotisserie chicken!

Yep.
You go to Costco for milk and a chicken…but come out with a lawnmower and a TV. ;)

There’s a reason they put the basics at the BACK… heh. They knows what they be doin…
 
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In all candor, I was worried about strain to my front diff and more…with my heavy, hard-wheeled, 14-year-old 200.

So… That heavily figured in to my motivation to get it all the way to Slee in March for gears/lockers, including front. Largely because I knew this woyld mean an opportunity to see any & all potential wear, etc in there.

And…sure enough… Front diff showed evidence of cumulative strain. I probably dodged a bullet just in time. The good news is…with front/rear lockers & 4.88s, my front end is fully renewed, stronger (esp when front locker is NOT engaged).

Truck performing better than ever now. It was painfully expensive, but was almost certainly….literally…make or break.

PS. Amazingly, my original 2007 factory (08 model year built in late 07) CVs were perfectly fine. Replaced them anyway due to zero added labor cost since already pulled.
Re-gear/lockers is happening for me as well as soon as the 4.88s are off back order. Still going back on air vs e locker. Which way did you go?
 
Re-gear/lockers is happening for me as well as soon as the 4.88s are off back order. Still going back on air vs e locker. Which way did you go?

ARB (air). Didn’t want to deal with waiting for engagement post wheel rotation. Already having air and manifold in place helped as well.
 
ARB (air). Didn’t want to deal with waiting for engagement post wheel rotation. Already having air and manifold in place helped as well.
Good to hear, that’s where I’m at on it.
 
Re-gear/lockers is happening for me as well as soon as the 4.88s are off back order. Still going back on air vs e locker. Which way did you go?
If you already have the compressor then air lockers are cheaper. I went with eLockers because I’ve heard a few stories of air lines leaking and blown diff seals from overpressure. Not sure there’s ever a right answer
 
Got routed down an absolutely hellish single track trail in central Washington. Was the kind of trail where turning around is worse than finishing it.

I got into a narrow part of the trail where a tree had been cut into sections and just got absolutely wedged. Got the left door good and ripped my right rocker panel. It was in there good, forward was bad and reverse was worse.

Absolutely gutted to have made this mistake:

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The rocker is easy to replace but will likely file an insurance claim and take the truck to a body shop. Not only are some scrapes down to the metal but there is quite a bit of deformation


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Got routed down an absolutely hellish single track trail in central Washington. Was the kind of trail where turning around is worse than finishing it.

I got into a narrow part of the trail where a tree had been cut into sections and just got absolutely wedged. Got the left door good and ripped my right rocker panel. It was in there good, forward was bad and reverse was worse.

Absolutely gutted to have made this mistake:

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The rocker is easy to replace but will likely file an insurance claim and take the truck to a body shop. Not only are some scrapes down to the metal but there is quite a bit of deformation


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Ouch! Are the drivers side scratches down to metal? I’d say just get some lc rockers and chock the rest up to a story! Does suck though
 
Ouch! Are the drivers side scratches down to metal? I’d say just get some lc rockers and chock the rest up to a story! Does suck though

Good call on the LC rockers. And Yep a couple of spots are gouged down to bare metal. I might try some touch up paint and just live with the scars.
 
Got a little to complacent this weekend and came off a rock faster than I should have. Also glad we were driving back in a convo or I wouldn't have the Tupperware anymore.
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Aaaaahhhh yessss. Sorry to see that dude. Exactly how mine went down.
You were the first person I thought of when I was radioed to stop because of my bumper haha
 
I hit up Elbe Hills ORV park here in the PNW this last weekend. I was out with 2 built Toyota pickups and a Jeep. They were constantly surprised to see the Lexus logo in the rear view, but my baby never skipped a beat. We stuck to trails that said they were passable with 33"-35" tires. (There are several runs dedicated to folks with 36+".) I still took a couple of hits throughout, but all of the damage was done to parts that are ear-marked for replacement anyway.



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I hit up Elbe Hills ORV park here in the PNW this last weekend. I was out with 2 built Toyota pickups and a Jeep. They were constantly surprised to see the Lexus logo in the rear view, but my baby never skipped a beat. We stuck to trails that said they were passable with 33"-35" tires. (There are several runs dedicated to folks with 36+".) I still took a couple of hits throughout, but all of the damage was done to parts that are ear-marked for replacement anyway.



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Good on you, Elbe is no joke.

So, bumper time?
 
Not exactly wheeling damage, more like "prepping-to-go-wheeling damage"…

Sharing it here so no one makes the same error I did.

Got what was supposed to be a temporary, cheap, and non-destructive mount for my phone while I figured out a RAM mount set up…

I debated between a ProClip mount and an A-tach mount.
I liked the visual location of the A-tach mount better than the ProClip (very limited options on 16+ LXs), so went with it.

When following step 1 of the install process (basically use a plastic wedge to separate the trim a bit), two spots of lacquer/urethane/whatever, cracked and popped off the wood trim. :frown:

So now I need to:
  • Live with it
  • Get the trim replaced == $$$$$
  • Find a way to fix it myself. (I have no skills/knowledge for this, so if you know of a technique or someone in the Seattle area with skills, please, let me know)
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