post 2003 nav delete how to. (2 Viewers)

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I'm going to inspect that blue connector on an 03 this friday on an install. Someone else said they terminate there and go no further.
So it would be easy to solder instead of a 3 way T, which I don't like.
Do you know if the other end of the connector has the same wire going through it and continuing on in the car or does it end right there. That connector has a hinge I believe, and it opens up.

On my three ways I usually end up cutting the wire altogether and adding my 3rd so I can get shrink sleeves on them.
If I was stuck with those red ones you have in the pic I think I would glue gun the lever part where it closes together and the plastic on the spade that goes into it. Or silicone and let it dry.

you have those solder seals so there really isn't a reason to not cut the wire. The red size will fit with two 22 gauge wire.
Truth be told I've used the white sized ones on toyota 22 gauge in places I refuse to solder. Make sure you use enough heat to see the solder run.

I'm very glad it worked out well. You probably got an amazing deal on all that.
 
IU4 is a 14 terminal connector and I believe only 5 wires are in it. It's hard to see the male but by feel and not visual I think only two wires came out of the connector and my determination was the UART's did not exit the IU4 which I thought was odd because in the wiring diagram it appears they do. I didn't think of that as an option but now I think I will take the glove box back out and solder them in. I'll let you know tomorrow what I find out.

IMG_7031.jpeg
 
IU4 is a 14 terminal connector and I believe only 5 wires are in it. It's hard to see the male but by feel and not visual I think only two wires came out of the connector and my determination was the UART's did not exit the IU4 which I thought was odd because in the wiring diagram it appears they do. I didn't think of that as an option but now I think I will take the glove box back out and solder them in. I'll let you know tomorrow what I find out.

View attachment 2731252
Meant female haha.
 
Ok, I can confirm the UART leads do not exit IU4. There are three wires that exit but not #6 & #7. I will solder in tomorrow. I had to take the glove box back out as the light does not work. Do you know if the entire switch needs to be replaced or can you extract the bulb. It looks solidly in the switch.
 
it makes sense that the one junction that should be or would be in a non nav behind the upper security screen isn't there, if in fact they terminate at the IU4. Because I don't believe the Ie1exists in the nav equipped version. A couple people have looked for that one also. I never found it. That's my take on it.


on the light bulb, mine never worked. I did replace the bulb and it still doesn't work. I've had that glove box out at least 30 times, I gave up on that light.
 
the C28 connector breakdown

c28 gets integrated in to the A45 AC connector, it doesn't exist in the non nav LC and LX.
On the nav equipped trucks the male side on the assembly is just all black wires
c28.png
The male side- the one shown in the picture- part number for that if you were remaking it or it got cut off the car would be 571-1376103-1 AMP tyco, from mouser. 3.50$
the male terminals are 1376109-1 15 cents each.


From the pic there's an extra upper screen connector, the four in a row on top. some 2003s have that set up, from then on there is only 3 connectors up there for the screen.

These nine or ten groups of wire should be identifiable as they separate from the big bundle up high behind the assembly. They branch off in groups, with their own small tape separating each smaller bundle.

To find the C28 group if your female connector has been cut off, look for a bundle that contains these color group of wires in no particular order.
this is not a complete list but close to it, there may be duplicates listed. Should be 14-16 wires in this set. year depending. 2006-7 will have two extra to account for the extra air bag control light. So 16 for 2007. I could be off one.

red/blue
white/black
blue/orange
blue/yellow
blue/red
blue/black
blue
blue/white
another blue/yellow
another red/blue
green
black
black/red
white green

If your left, drivers side control buttons on the vent panel are not working (antenna up and down, hazard, and center lock) then they are lost somewhere and not integrated into the A45 (40 position) connector at the AC amp.

Only speaking here about that set. For MARK ONLY
these colors for all that should be inserted are as follows.
the first number is the position in the c28

13) 4WD black/red should be moved to pin #26 of A45
14) S- ANTD blue/white, should be moved to A45 #29 page (14 and 15 can be ignored if you've deleted the power antenna in favor of a fixed antenna)
15) S- ANTU blue/yellow, should be moved to A45 #28

1) 2WD black, should be moved to pin# 25 of A45
2) DEFC red/blue , swap to A45 pin#27
3) HZRD white, swap to A45 pin#24




normally there is one more green wire to move that's part of the passenger side seatbelt light. Disregard that, so 6 only need to be moved to A45

6 repair wires from toyota that you need to match up to the original c28 wires. Then insert those into the A45 in the correct spots.

IMG_20180423_113019.jpg
IMG_20180904_061540.jpg

Here are pics of where exactly the c28 wires are inserted, you're only concerned with the 6 in position 1-3, and 13-15
That go in to the A45 at positions 24-29 as follows.

1626516584470.png




C28

c28 close up.jpg
 
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One other item.

The blue connector on the side wall behind the glove box is definitely easier to get to and solder/heatgun than the set up behind the instrument panel.
It would be faster and safer for soldering and heat gunning than doing it behind the instrument cluster.

Also I can confirm that the two wires terminate there. SO there is no need to do a 3 way any splice behind the instrument panel or at the blue connector behind and to the right of the glove box.
Thanks you guys for looking into that and providing the info.
 
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it makes sense that the one junction that should be or would be in a non nav behind the upper security screen isn't there, if in fact they terminate at the IU4. Because I don't believe the Ie1exists in the nav equipped version. A couple people have looked for that one also. I never found it. That's my take on it.


on the light bulb, mine never worked. I did replace the bulb and it still doesn't work. I've had that glove box out at least 30 times, I gave up on that light.
So I went to Toyota and the parts guy said the bulb looked good. I went home and confirmed the switch and bulb work fine. Put the multimeter on the connector, no voltage.
 
A quick bump to this post- if anyone is interested I have also posted this in the classified section. Please PM me for any of these parts.
Another bump to this post. Here is what I have left:
  • 55902-60110 PANEL SUB ASSY, A/C
  • 55912-60150 HOUSING, HEATER CONTROL
  • 84014-60190 BOARD SUB-ASSY, PRINTED WIRE INTEGRATION
  • 55905-60780 KNOB, HEATER CONTROL
  • 83240-60220 CASE ASSY
  • 83265-60220 COMPUTER
Please PM me for any of these parts.
 
Another bump to this post. Here is what I have left:
  • 55902-60110 PANEL SUB ASSY, A/C
  • 55912-60150 HOUSING, HEATER CONTROL
  • 84014-60190 BOARD SUB-ASSY, PRINTED WIRE INTEGRATION
  • 55905-60780 KNOB, HEATER CONTROL
  • 83240-60220 CASE ASSY
  • 83265-60220 COMPUTER
Please PM me for any of these parts.
 
I just bought a 2003 LC and I'm committed to completing this project. I have some of studying to do but in the meantime I want to start collecting the required parts. If anyone has any of the parts they would like to sale please PM me. Thanks
 
So I’ve searched and searched.

Is this incredibly impressive (but incredibly complicated and absolutely out of my realm of possibility) mod the only choice if I want to replace my unit with a Bluetooth/CarPlay double-din unit and retain the functions of my climate buttons, etc.?
 
There is another option with an android setup. It looks slick and I believe works well. Some issues inherent with the android system. The thread
 
connector M8 male, without using two connectors to make an adapter. 90980 -10360 toyota male part number. I dont think dealers will show this as a valid #. M5 only has the security red/green wire. there's no sense in looking for a male.

1634737614683.png
 
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So having M8 is handy getting an extra power gnd and accessory? What else does m8 do?
 
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