post 2003 nav delete how to. (6 Viewers)

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apartenly those ones are quite hard to get too, very high up there behind the glove box. pull the trim surrounding the bottom of the guage cluster, ontop of the steering column. you will see bolts to remove the guage cluster and then the connectors and wires for the c14 back there.
 
I found the IU4 connector behind the glove box. @jerryb mentioned this awhile back. Lot's of wires and such behind the glove box. Same experience as Jerry, I could not find Ie1 which is a two terminal connector. There is a two terminal connector right where Ie1 should be but it is an AC Thermistor. I'll post a pic later today but I verified every wire on the IU4 connnector to ensure I had the right one because every wire is sky blue and the connector itself is dark blue. Pretty easy to access. It seemed harder to pull the instrument trim apart but maybe I was overthinking it.
 
IU4 behind the glove box on the right side. Blue connector with sky blue wires...

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no way no how is a 2006-07 that easy to get hands on that connector lol. There's much more crap right there on late models.
in you case I would definitely use that location.
 
everything works fine, here's an after pic. Before anyone asks, you need a steering wheel adapter for the audio buttons. And to make the stock back up cam work on an aftermarket deck read this, HOW TO: Using the factory rear view camera with aftermarket stereo - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums
If I remember correctly I had to swap black and red for that to work.
I use axxess steering wheel adapter, it works fine also.
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Where did you get the fill plate for the Head Unit?
 
I bought the after market fascia, color not a perfect match. Saw the Toyota one and decided to buy it thinking the screen hole would be the same size and it is not. I'd rather use the Toyota if I can find a Dash kit. @jerryb I think you showed one at the beginning of the thread. Where did you get it?
Thanks...

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I just spent ten minutes looking and I can't find them. Online, or in boxes at my house.
I'll keep an eye out. Use prado landcruiser as search terms on ebay and any other terms you think
 
2003 SPECIFIC UPDATE:

I have a 2003 (1/03) and it also had the 4 plug NAV. I worked up a little graphic for what you described above that may help (Certainly helps me to refer back to this). I should also point out that you cannot simply remove the pins from the old NAV M8 connector and put them directly into the new M9 as they are a different pin size. You could do that with the old M5 though but it's only one wire.View attachment 2279770
Update: 4/22/20 There is hope for the 2003 people if there are more swaps to come. I have figured out which connectors are the M8 and M5 males above and will be ordering those parts today. Assuming they mate up, and they should, I'll be able to modify the JTM (Jerry's The Man) adapter harness to make this virtually plug and play. At least as easy as the later ones. (EDIT: Arrived and they fit perfectly. Just crimp pins, click them in and you are done)


you bought m8 and m5 males? do you have part numbers, from mouser or something?

I'm wondering if I can get some before this saturday.
 
you bought m8 and m5 males? do you have part numbers, from mouser or something?

I'm wondering if I can get some before this saturday.
No. But I did map the M9 and will send it to you. 7 of the 8 wires comes from the M8 connector. One comes from M5. And then the taps for UART's at the glove box.
 
it's all good. I have oilhammers pics for m8 and 5. I should have got the male part numbers for these a long time ago.
 
Ok. Should be one of my last challenges... Still can't figure out how to remove the terminals. Jerry, do you have any pictures with where you put the removal tool to lift the plastic keeper?

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the one on the right.. at the bottom there is a metal tab/spring that keeps it in. push it in with a paper clip, pull up.
The one on the left.. should be the same.
 
Hey Jerry. The connector looks identical to mine. #34 has a blue/orange. I found it in the manual. It has a code SWD. Trying to decide if I should remove it. Please advise. Thanks...
It is coming from the Center Cluster Integration Cluster Panel where 4 others that are to be removed come from, #35-38.
 
@jerryb Finished the wiring last night except for the UARTS connections at IU4. I put the taps on at IU4 in back of dash this morning. Put the connectors in to the clock and AC/Heater panel. The red security light was blinking so that was a good sign. Turned on the truck and believe it or not everything worked. Woohoo!!! I was pretty stoked. Been doing this kind of stuff for a long time and it's rare it works first time. Thanks for all your help. Now I'm waiting on brackets and the RCA cables so I can install the Pioneer NEX, clock and AC/Heater panel.

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@jerryb Finished the wiring last night except for the UARTS connections at IU4. I put the taps on at IU4 in back of dash this morning. Put the connectors in to the clock and AC/Heater panel. The red security light was blinking so that was a good sign. Turned on the truck and believe it or not everything worked. Woohoo!!! I was pretty stoked. Been doing this kind of stuff for a long time and it's rare it works first time. Thanks for all your help. Now I'm waiting on brackets and the RCA cables so I can install the Pioneer NEX, clock and AC/Heater panel.

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Best mod ever. You’re going to love it.
 
@jerryb Finished the wiring last night except for the UARTS connections at IU4. I put the taps on at IU4 in back of dash this morning. Put the connectors in to the clock and AC/Heater panel. The red security light was blinking so that was a good sign. Turned on the truck and believe it or not everything worked. Woohoo!!! I was pretty stoked. Been doing this kind of stuff for a long time and it's rare it works first time. Thanks for all your help. Now I'm waiting on brackets and the RCA cables so I can install the Pioneer NEX, clock and AC/Heater panel.

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How did you get your controller to display in F instead of C.? I do recommend you solder your connection those red tapping thingy are known to loosen up over time (just a suggestion).
 
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