post 2003 nav delete how to. (4 Viewers)

[jerryb]

an update.

I wanted to add the part numbers for the lower row of buttons, as if you were buying them new instead of re using your old buttons.
The reason is that I'm building an assembly to either sell or install for someone, so I needed new ones.

the mirror, rear, blank, and defrost button part numbers are. It's odd I never thought about these until I put one together last night. (Other than 2017)
8487560030 mirror heater
8466160080 rear
8465660070 blank
8479160010 defrost

these, plus the regular parts for the non nav are still right around 2k. Unless you're trying to find the heater circuit board for a plus jan 2006 and on version.
Then it gets over 2.

 

[JMC3]

Hey guys,

I have purchased everything I need for the nav delete on my 2007 LC except for the integration assembly 84014-60350. This part has been discontinued and there aren’t any available through Toyota USA. I don’t know how to source one, but I am willing to pay or go to great lengths. if anyone has access to old stock or any ideas how to get hands on one, I would appreciate iit! Oh, I can also use the brackets but these don’t seem to be as difficult to source. Thanks!!

 

[jerryb]

If my bracket orders show up I'll have three sets. At least one of them appears to be shipping.

on the 60350 circuit board.
If I had a post jan 2006, I would experiment on it and make it work. Nick22 used the old board in combo with a new one. His process is in this 30 pages somewhere.
All I really think that needs to be done is get the two wires in the C28 connector(F) to the stock nav panel's extra two wires on the right hand side of the stock green wired male connector that goes to the extra yellow light. That combo will work.
I also think a small resistor on the two wires in the c28 would work.
It's not so bad that the pass A/B light is on or off, it's the SRS code and blinking dash.
Since it's universal on all cars past jan 2006 in the USA and a few other countries there should be plenty online about fooling the main A/B controller.
Maybe nick can explain again or post pictures.

 

[tzyz]

Hi There, just wondering if anyone has a detailed pinout guide for the 88650-60821 A/C amplifier. Thanks

 

[Ysfael]

Hi There, just wondering if anyone has a detailed pinout guide for the 88650-60821 A/C amplifier. Thanks

According to TIS for a 2005 LX470 w/o Nav

 

[tzyz]

According to TIS for a 2005 LX470 w/o Nav

I appreciate it

 

[tzyz]

I appreciate it

 

[tzyz]

According to TIS for a 2005 LX470 w/o Nav

So turns out the A/C amp in my 05 LX470 with nav is a 88650-60851. I mapped out all the wires using the 069AC-FRO.pdf but some of the wire colors don't match up. Does anyone have the pinout or wiring diagram for 05 LX with nav and the 88650-60851 A/C amplifier? Thank you!

 

[jerryb]

that's it that was posted.
the reason some wires may or may not be listed in the wiring diagram is because other sections in the wiring book will have the relevant wires you're looking for. Look at the illumination section for example, or the nav screen, air bag controller etc.
Also,
TIS will have the master wiring for all of it. Revisions and model year changes affect the books.

IF you want to know the complete wiring of a connecter in the book, you have to go through the entire book. Or search a PDF with the the number and letter of your connector. Even then, you could miss some.


edit
The individual part numbers for the LX or LC stock amplifiers doesn't affect much, they are all the same. 2003 late, to 2007 The only thing that I'm aware of additions wise are the 2007 and ate 2006 extra air bag wires.

 

[tzyz]

that's it that was posted.
the reason some wires may or may not be listed in the wiring diagram is because other sections in the wiring book will have the relevant wires you're looking for. Look at the illumination section for example, or the nav screen, air bag controller etc.
Also,
TIS will have the master wiring for all of it. Revisions and model year changes affect the books.

IF you want to know the complete wiring of a connecter in the book, you have to go through the entire book. Or search a PDF with the the number and letter of your connector. Even then, you could miss some.

Thanks. I understand that Jerry and was able to find complete pinouts for the ac controller plugs using various diagrams and pictures in this thread and others. My problem is that the diagram shows wire color that does not match the wire harness. About 95% match but a few don't. I'll keep digging, thanks

 

[jerryb]

labeled for LC as A45-47, LX corresponding numbers/letters are A47-49

 

[tzyz]

Thanks Jerry, I have to consolidate all my notes and compare it to you findings

 

[Bulacho]

I gathered almost all the parts (never could source the AC Amp Board) but decided to go a different route. For those who are interested, please PM me. I will be getting rid of the following items for the non-nav conversion:

• 55902-60110 PANEL SUB ASSY, A/C
• 55912-60150 HOUSING, HEATER CONTROL
• 84014-60190 BOARD SUB-ASSY, PRINTED WIRE INTEGRATION
• 55905-60780 KNOB, HEATER CONTROL
• 83240-60220 CASE ASSY
• 83265-60220 COMPUTER
• 86208-60020 NON NAV BRACKET L
• 86207-60020 NON NAV BRACKET R
• 842585-8010B0 STEERING WHEEL BLANK OFF
• DFP 11-15 Toyota Land Cruiser Double DIN Fascia Adaptor panel SOLD

 

[GTV]

I’m fortunate to have a factory no nav ‘07 (10/06), coincidentally the same one pictured back on post 15. If it didn’t come this way I would have converted it as well.

Obviously the head unit isn’t standard. It’s “ok” but I really would like something with Apple Car Play. The opportunity to upgrade led me to this facia that deletes the CD slot and upper info panel. It fits a large (as advertised) 10.1” screen.

I’m an audio/video novice so I’m curious to know if anyone has used this and/or has advice on how to attempt it. Of course I want it to function and appear as if it’s factory (steering wheel controls, etc.). I’m willing to be a guinea pig but I really don’t know where to go from here. All suggestions appreciated!

 

[Njck22]

Unless you really want a flush mounted 10 inch screen, this is gonna be more hassle than it's worth. No security light, clock, mileage, range, etc.

 

[GTV]

Unless you really want a flush mounted 10 inch screen, this is gonna be more hassle than it's worth. No security light, clock, mileage, range, etc.

Why do you say that? Please elaborate.
Everything other than the security light can be reproduced on the screen. I see it as a very small sacrifice to make.

 

[Njck22]

Why do you say that? Please elaborate.
Everything other than the security light can be reproduced on the screen. I see it as a very small sacrifice to make.

I am assuming it is not trivial to get all that data to display on the screen? I can't say I've been keeping up with what modern head units can do along with data interfaces, so please correct me.

Wouldn't you need something to interface with the vehicle data lines(actually are they even digital?) (UART) coming from the combination? Like idatalink maestro. I haven't seen that done on a 100 series but I bet there is similar toyota vehicles which it has been done on. Also outside air temp. and then get that to play nice with the headunit. Herein lies the hassle, but maybe i'm overthinking this. Or if you don't use any of that stuff then no harm getting rid of it I guess.

If you got everything else figured out then just drill a little hole and surface mount an LED.

I am very interested in what you come up with! What headunit were you thinking of going with? I know pioneer has some cool modular options with big screens.

 

[Ysfael]

I don't know what radio you're using, but if it is one of the majority of them that mounts to a single DIN chassis and then extends the screen, you won't have enough depth to mount that in the dash. Just my tuppance.

 

[GTV]

I am assuming it is not trivial to get all that data to display on the screen? I can't say I've been keeping up with what modern head units can do along with data interfaces, so please correct me.

Wouldn't you need something to interface with the vehicle data lines(actually are they even digital?) (UART) coming from the combination? Like idatalink maestro. I haven't seen that done on a 100 series but I bet there is similar toyota vehicles which it has been done on. Also outside air temp. and then get that to play nice with the headunit. Herein lies the hassle, but maybe i'm overthinking this. Or if you don't use any of that stuff then no harm getting rid of it I guess.

If you got everything else figured out then just drill a little hole and surface mount an LED.

I am very interested in what you come up with! What headunit were you thinking of going with? I know pioneer has some cool modular options with big screens.

It doesn't appear to be that difficult. A module that plugs into the OBD plug and transmits data via bluetooth to the head unit. Check out @kpecks post here. Also OBDLink® MX+ - Outstanding Bluetooth-Compatible OBD II Scan Tool - https://www.obdlink.com/products/obdlink-mxp/ That being said, most of the info up there I could live without if I had to.

I'm considering the blank/dummy switch on the HVAC panel to drill for the security light.

No idea on which head unit yet. I'm a real idiot when it comes to this audio stuff but I'm learning. All I know is when I type "10.1 inch car stereo car play" into google I get options.

I posed the same question on FB the other day, I didn't get a lot of valuable information (no surprise) but an Australian member did post a picture of his 100 using the same facia. Unfortunately his doesn't feature car play and was installed by a shop down under so he wasn't able to give installation details.

 

[jerryb]

I don't think you can just delete the upper computer on the non nav. There's a bit of info there going back to the instrument panel/ body ecu. Your transmitter might not work right, or door locks possibly.

Unplug the top computer and try driving it for a few days.

If you're bent on doing it relocate the top computer to the glove box.