post 2003 nav delete how to.

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suspecting a resistor on the two middle wires at the airbag light assembly will eliminate the air bag srs code being set. Of course you won't get the 5 wire connector, only the 3 wire connector in the early version of the heater integration panel. So you'd need to test with an existing center assembly from a nav equipped 100.
Then on the new harness, theoretically you'd need to have a resistor on the A45 correct spots, or the C28 correct spots.
actually the perfect spots would be the very end of the C28 male connector where the terminals meet the wire. Logically that's where it should go.
This is for someone that wants non nav in the post 01/2006 100s but find the 60350 panel NLA. Which seems to be true.

Next if that didn't work I think I'd look at the center air bag ecu wires. pain to get to though.
then I'd go about the hiding your older board somewhere. like someone else did here.
Sorry I don't have a truck here to work on.

B1152

This would fix the tesla people's problems with post 01/2006 srs codes also.

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I bet a resistor would solve it aswell. If that doesn’t work however, the solution that I ended up using similar situation,

I was using RHD 3 wire AC AMP parts in a LHD 5 wire vehicle, so not only did I have the wrong connector, it was also on the wrong side.

So I kept the the old center integration assembly from the naviagtion setup. Originally it sits at the bottom, isnt that big and it runs the Rear defrost, mirror defrost, and rear ac buttons, in addition to the connector for the cdl/ antenna buttons/ hazard and for the airbag light.

I have it tucked between the rails, doesn’t interfere and all it does is run the airbag and antenna/CDl Buttons. And the c28 connetor goes directly to it, no harness joining the c28 into the AC Amp connector. And because no harness needs to join c28 into a45, there is no a45 harness necessary either! Im going entirely off what I remember from over a year ago, but I might take some pictures later.
 
i recall asking. That really is the only reason the c28 wires extend into the A45, and of course why the nav 100s have so little in the A45 connector.
it fries my brain when I think too hard about this.

to add in here, the two outside wires are power and ground for the red seatbelt light. I assume now the #2 & 4 position wires on the 5 wire post 2006 are for the yellow on off. middle #3 should be weight sensor, but in combination with the yellow light. idk

need a tesla screen guy with post 01/2006 to test it out on the c28 connector.
 
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@woofty

a45 40 pin.jpg


a46 18 pin.jpg


a47 22 pin.jpg


m9 16 pin.jpg
 
@Ontherocks345
when you take the passenger side vent off and unplug it your left with the male side attached to the metal mount.
if you can push that out it will be easier to test the #2 and #4 male pins with the resistor.
LIke I said, clear any and all codes.
turn key off.
remove vent and unplug.
start car and let it run for a minute or more, turn it off, do it again, and once more just in case, 3 ignition cycles. *idk exactly how may it may take. Could only be one for airbag stuff. iF you get a persistent srs in the instrument panel that doesn't go out when the car first fires up in about 15 seconds after the first cycle then you can stop because you have the code set.
read the codes.
you should get two codes probably. both passenger codes. b1152 should be? one of them I don't remember the other one.

Then I would erase the codes. (if you can)

then key out, car off.

then,,, I would leave the car battery connected if it were me. Someone else may or may not like that. No damage should occur and there shouldn't be any power with the key off for 90 seconds at any of those five male terminals. Still, there is an unwritten rule, and you are messing with wires that eventually feed back to an airbag controller. ALthough remotely and a lot or wire between. But you're only testing a light bulb.

use alligator clips, spare female terminals,however you want to hook onto the #2 and 4 pins, other ends of those to your resistor.
careful not to bend the pins in the housing.
once you're sure it's correct and stable, start the car and watch the instrument panel go through it's checks and watch the lights go out. if the srs light goes out after it's checks then it's good.
don't sit in the passenger seat while doing this.


guessing 2.4ohm resistor. maybe 3.3?? lots of conflicting info out there regarding all things toyota --seatbelt, occupancy and belt clip sensor.
half watt i'd go with.



you can also check that the #2and4 spots are actually correct for the yellow light with the car battery.
insert skinny wire in those spots on the connector that goes to the vent assembly and touch the battery with them. Try both ways + and -
paper clip is fine also, torch tip cleaner, sim card ejector, etc.

yellow light should light up one way or the other.

if not then I'm wrong about positions and need to look around some more.
I do know the red light is the outside pins. Could be same ground for both red and yellow that switches, and or in combo with the middle. 3 inputs going on there.

I could mail you mail you wire with terminals attached if you don't have a decent or acceptable way to attach to the male car side connector, let me know.

five wire connector female first pic

male five wire connector second. (going to the board) red circle. yes I know it's only three wires in the pics, same connector though.

five wire vent side.jpg


five wire car(board) side.jpg


IMG_20180118_154759.jpg
 
no that acc shared grey one is fine.
I don't remember, are there dip switches on the axxess? You meant to write R38 for steering wheel control wires, correct?
they are not in R36----- lexus lx they letter them different. I might have sent you a wrong color version of the wiring.
here's the LC if crossed them up.
the ground in pin six (brown) and the black axxess wire need to be a chassis ground.
then your pin 7 and 8 to the respective axxess wires as in the instructions. It's probably easy to skip over grounding the brown wire in the R38c (#6)

Connect the Green/Orange wire of the ASWC-1 to the wire in Pin 7 of the vehicle’s radio harness R38c (white/red)
Connect the Black/Green wire of the ASWC-1 to the wire in Pin 8 of the vehicle’s radio harness R38c (black/red)

I think these get messed up all the time.
let me know.
View attachment 2155428

Do the colors above for pin 7 & 8 apply to a 2006 LX? I matched the ASWC-1 green/orange and black/green wires to the white/red and black/red wires as shown above and the ASWC-1 is failing to program. I feel pretty good about the ACC and Ground wires, but I'm probably grabbing at least one wrong wire as it relates to the signal wires. Thanks for any help!

P.S. I also wonder if disconnecting the factory amp and rear seat entertainment caused a disconnect somewhere as it relates to steering wheel controls?
 
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jeez I thought I was loosing my mind, the letters involved for the LC and LX are different, but the numbers are the same. lol. I knew this before it's just that I've forgotten it now.

R38 C is landcruiser , R38 c is a 20 pin connector.

same connector both versions, different letters AND numbers in the book

R36 C is the LX, R36 is a 20 pin just like the LC. Same connector.

IN any case it doesn't matter. Find a 20 pin connected to the stereo, there are two. Find the one with a brown, a red/black, and a white/red all next to each other in that order and you're there.
cut those three, connect as appropriate.

the brown in the car that you cut must be grounded. The black axxess wire must be grounded. It will work out of the box connected like this. Especially in your 2006 LX. I've put in 3 of them. 2 LX and one LC same 2006-7 years.
If there are instructions regarding return to factory or default configuration, try that. I'd cut the battery for a minute or two also. Make sure you ACC +12 is good.
 

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jeez I thought I was loosing my mind, the letters involved for the LC and LX are different, but the numbers are the same. lol. I knew this before it's just that I've forgotten it now.

R38 C is landcruiser , R38 c is a 20 pin connector.

same connector both versions, different letters AND numbers in the book

R36 C is the LX, R36 is a 20 pin just like the LC. Same connector.

IN any case it doesn't matter. Find a 20 pin connected to the stereo, there are two. Find the one with a brown, a red/black, and a white/red all next to each other in that order and you're there.
cut those three, connect as appropriate.

the brown in the car that you cut must be grounded. The black axxess wire must be grounded. It will work out of the box connected like this. Especially in your 2006 LX. I've put in 3 of them. 2 LX and one LC same 2006-7 years.
If there are instructions regarding return to factory or default configuration, try that. I'd cut the battery for a minute or two also. Make sure you ACC +12 is good.

You're a lifesaver (again)! I feel like an idiot now. I was trying to grab the radio wires from the bigger harness and totally forgot about the smaller one. I even had the Metra 70-8114 harness so I plugged right into the smaller radio harness. I did have to move the ACC and Ground wires from the Axxess over, then do a reset on the module, but then it auto programmed and the steering wheel controls are working perfectly! Thanks again!
 
Thanks to Jerry B and everyone else's help I'm almost done with the nav delete on my 2006 LX. As you can see I had to convert it to a LC setup due to some LX parts that were NLA. I used Jerry B's harnesses and replaced the Mark Levinson amp with a 5 channel JL Audio XD700/5v2 and retained the factory speakers, which sound better than I expected. Tracing the front speaker wires was a little tricky as I discovered the midrange and tweeter are on their own channel. I also used the Axxess ASWC-1 steering wheel control adapters, but still need to do the backup camera conversion. I'm also going to upgrade head units ASAP. Probably to a modular design for the bigger screen and hopefully more breathing room in the back. Like others have said, it's extremely tight getting everything back in the dash.

If anyone knows of a good source for the LC side vents please let me know!



IMG_9278.JPG
 
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you don't have the two instrument panel wires connected yet? OR they are connected and the instrument panel isn't installed? can't tell in the pic.

and the lower button covers, are you missing them also? I sent a note. I have button covers for the lower. One complete set and some random ones if needed.
 
Not sure what's going on with the instrument panel wires. It was working a few months ago when I first made the connections. Could it be because it's been sitting in the garage not driven for a few months?
 
if it worked before but isn't now it could just be slightly loose instrument panel connections. if it's just sitting and not being driven or moved I wouldn't think that possible. but maybe. A solid connection will never give you dashes or blanks. push on the lower part of the instrument panel, both sides and check the lower bolts, push lightly.
 
if it worked before but isn't now it could just be slightly loose instrument panel connections. if it's just sitting and not being driven or moved I wouldn't think that possible. but maybe. A solid connection will never give you dashes or blanks. push on the lower part of the instrument panel, both sides and check the lower bolts, push lightly.

Good catch. I think the lower instrument panels may be a little loose.
 
I do have two harness sets I can sell. I am no longer providing the repair wire that I usually put into it. that's the wire that gets inserted into the A47 connector. They take too long to get and cost a lot.
my price has dropped 22$ per set.
it's 50/50 whether I make more.
I am building a complete drop in assembly to sell though, no eta

the part number on that one repair wire is 82998-12640
 
I'll do what I can. Assuming they declare the car a loss, I'll have to choose between a full settlement and no parts or a partial settlement and a non-functioning carcass. I might be financially better off parting it out, but it would be a pain in the ass for sure. I guess I can look at a middle ground and see if somebody here wants to buy the carcass and get me out of the parts game.

A quick update, and I don't want to divert the thread too much... numerous people have contacted me and there might be some interested who haven't, so easier to post this here.

USAA changed their mind and is going to total the car rather than repair it. I'll post more info when they give me numbers (might create a new thread so this one can stay focused), but I either will just pass along the required contact info etc for the salvage yard and let one of you deal with them directly or I will take offers from you guys and I'll go down to the salvage yard myself and remove the right parts. Easiest would be to sell the center console intact with Jerry's harness. The next step that would make sense if the salvage yard is ok would be to make an offer on the entire stereo system - amplifier, door speakers, subwoofer, RCA cables, etc since all of that was brand new. This was for a 2007 Land Cruiser.

I'm not going to lose track of this one... I guarantee the salvage yard will have no idea what they're sitting on and the idea of those parts going to waste kills me. I spent too much time and money finding those things to let them go to waste.
 
kills me to. the idea that the 60350 integration panel and the 60b80 amp panel going to waste is difficult.
When this first started you could buy all the non nav parts needed for the current price of those two alone today, if you could find them. now, there are people that will pay 11 or 12 hundred for both. I think two have coughed up 750 on a pre order alone multiple times for the integration panel 60350 only to be cancelled.
you can post in this thread anytime you want. anyone else can also.
 
It's official - insurance company is totaling the car and buying me out. I'd highly suggest somebody buy this and fix it up as it would make and outstanding project for somebody. It needs front and rear bumpers (may as well go ARB or some kind of aftermarket stuff), radiator, fan, fan clutch, both front quarter panels, hood, and some misc parts around those areas. The frame, suspension engine, drivetrain etc are all 100% ok and all the glass is fine and the airbags did not deploy. It would have a salvage title which will hurt resale value, but should be super reliable anyway. And here's the kicker...

116,000 miles, phoenix based car so ZERO rust, and the nav conversion with a full stereo upgrade (amp and all speakers replaced) already done. Really good condition... if you ignore the whole wreck thing.

The ink is still wet on the agreement and I don't have the salvage auction details yet, but I'll provide them if I can get them. If I can't, I think it will be going through the IAAI salvage auction in Phoenix - not sure of the date, but IAAI will probably take possession of the car early next week. I heard through the grapevine that IAAI had bid about $7500 for the carcass, so I assume the auction value would be higher than that. The body shop estimated $14K of repair work, but it felt like they had their thumb on the scale for that. If you're super interested, PM me and I can provide the full scope of work (incl photos) from the body shop. You'd have the option of either stripping the nav conversion parts out and re-selling at auction again or just fix up the entire car and have a low mileage, no rust beast but with a salvaged title.

I don't make a dime from one of you buying this, btw. I just hate the idea of an LC with the nav conversion already done going to a scrap heap.

To give you a rough idea of the damage, attached is a photo after the wreck with my wife and her friend taunting me after they wrecked my car. Bitches.

IMG_3539.jpeg
 
So - I bought one of Jerry's harnesses, and before I go further, was pretty happy with it over all even though I had to modify it a good bit. It gave me a starting point and all the A/C controller wires worked fine. So putting the info here for anyone else who may run into the same issue. Build was for a 2003 Land Cruiser, Navi delete. The multi-display screen model was the 86111-60150 and has 4 plugs (M7 - 6 pins, M6 - 10 pins, M5 - 14 pins and M8 - 8 pins). All of the parts on the DYI from this thread were what I got. The wires for this particular version of the multi display mod, which I completed today, are as follows. From the M8 plug to the new M9 plug required for the upper info display. M8 Pin1 Blue/White to M9 pin 9. M8 Pin2 Black/white to M9 pin 11. M8 pin3 white/blue to M9 pin 3. M8 pin4 Gray to M9 pin 10. M8 pin 6 White/Black to M9 pin 8. Now to the M5 plug. M5 pin 7 Green/red to pin 14. The 2 wires to the back of the combination meter are the same as Jerry described as was the A47 wire. I had full functionality including temp, security light etc. Really awesome group you guys have here. Cheers!

2003 SPECIFIC UPDATE:

I have a 2003 (1/03) and it also had the 4 plug NAV. I worked up a little graphic for what you described above that may help (Certainly helps me to refer back to this). I should also point out that you cannot simply remove the pins from the old NAV M8 connector and put them directly into the new M9 as they are a different pin size. You could do that with the old M5 though but it's only one wire.
2003 M9 4 plug variation V2.jpg

Update: 4/22/20 There is hope for the 2003 people if there are more swaps to come. I have figured out which connectors are the M8 and M5 males above and will be ordering those parts today. Assuming they mate up, and they should, I'll be able to modify the JTM (Jerry's The Man) adapter harness to make this virtually plug and play. At least as easy as the later ones. (EDIT: Arrived and they fit perfectly. Just crimp pins, click them in and you are done)
 
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Seeing that now makes me assume number 7 and 8 of m8 are the two illumination wires that go to the new m9.
 
Oh, so you think M8-8 to M9-5 and M8-7 to M9-4?

1587412308854.png

That would make sense given that the M5 connector for an 03 is empty in slots 1 and 2.
 
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