post 2003 nav delete how to.

[jerryb]

Lol. I think where ever the green and green white ill+&- wires are they will go in the new m9. I can't say for sure because I don't have the illumination pages of that year from the wiring book. But seeing the pic, yes I think so.
I don't know what wires are in the m5 for the 4 connector version. Odds are very good most all will come from the m8, except of course the green red security wire.

 

[OilHammer]

2003 SPECIFIC UPDATE:

Well I have learned a lot. As soon as I pulled the unit out and realized I had the 4 connector version, I dug into the wiring diagrams until I fully* understood what goes where. I'm not a permanent mod kind of guy, so I wanted to be 100% sure this would work or be reversible. My Nav screen has been mostly turned OFF from 50k miles to preserve its lifespan but now it seems that 2020 has arrived and I can move into the future.

Confirmed: Half of Jerry's harness (I call it the JTM harness (Jerry's The Man)) will allow you to have A/C immediately. You actually don't have to do any of the other wiring changes for climate control to function. The security wire tap, cluster tap, and all other wires that run to the M9 are for that display only....meaning you want these, but if you run short of time you can have A/c just by plugging the center unit back up. Wish I had known that, as I would have done this swap YEARS ago but was scared off by the 40 hr swap comments. To that point, it's more like 10 minutes with the JTM...assuming you pre-assembled the parts before you get started opening the dash. I think it took me longer to figure out how to pop the side vents out than anything else. Here it is running without the M9 connected. (I'm waiting on parts to modify the other half of his harness and sort the radio. EDIT 5/7: All new male connectors arrived and I made a 2003 specific adapter harness so I didn't have to modify the factory NAV harness at all. Now fully plug and play and I could pop the nav back in if I needed to sell the truck w/o the conversion)

I can totally see spending another 10 hrs or so sorting how I want to handle the radio. There isn't much room. This is MAX depth. With harness wires in there, the reality is less.

Here is the short depth to the Gateway ECU if you leave it.

And speaking of the gateway, I think I'll move this but I'm wondering if this part is even required anymore. I still need to play, but I'm thinking this is part of the computer that fed the NAV and is no longer needed. Can anyone confirm this part shows up in a wiring diagram for a non-Nav truck for any year?

 

[jerryb]

People have moved it or removed it. Honestly, I can't recall what I did with mine. It is the gateway 4 I think it is. it's not gateway 4

 

[OilHammer]

All the diagrams I have looked it suggest it is a Nav only item that's no longer needed. I found a wiring diagram for an 04 and this item simply doesn't exist for non-nav trucks.

 

[OilHammer]

Probably too late since most everyone has done this already, but again- documenting to help jog my own memory should I ever need to go back into this.
The two wires that Jerry taps behind the cluster do run over to a connector behind the glove box. (at least in my 03 and confirmed with an 04 wiring diagram). The way Jerry does the connection is completely fine as the wires themselves just dead end at the female connector called IU4. Technically, you could just cut them at the cluster and connect to his harness wires. If you aren't into cutting, you can buy the pins for the male side of the IU4 and install them in pin #6 and pin #7 locations and run those to your new M9 connector. That's how I did it and the hardest part was pulling the connector out of the clip its in so I could release the pin lock. Otherwise, worked very well. Beyond that, getting a solid clean crimp on the 1mm pins is tedious.

and this diagram will show you where it is.

Remove glove box. Remove bolts for the computer and look hard right behind the dash. You'll see a four pack of connectors mounted to a metal tab. The blue one closest to you, passenger side is the one you are after.
The yellow label above calls out wire color on the male side, but that's only if you don't have NAV. In NAV cars, the wires aren't there but these are the pin slots that should be used.

 

[jerryb]

Where were you in 2018 haha. Thank you.
And to all you people who are saying now you tell -me I'm sorry.

The plastic instrument panel on part souq is 16 dollars.

one thing to note. They are in fact in my connector, 2006, regular LC. At the time. I either counted backwards, probably. Or just thought it was easier to remove the combo meter. I apologize for not looking at it longer.
This is my picture from 2018. It's posted in the thread somewhere.

 

[OilHammer]

Oh trust me, I wish I had the time back when this started. I was burning more than 2 hrs a day driving for 3 yrs. Darn near killed me. The only reason I can dig into this now is the fact that I'm not allowed to drive to client sites! You also took most of the mystery away, so I've been able to focus on just the gaps specific to the 03 model.

I don't think there's anything wrong with tapping at the cluster. It might actually be easier because there's room to work. That blue IU4 connector behind the glove box is tight for me to reach. I was really hoping that the 4 pin connector was actually up behind the radio and just taped up in the harness, as THAT would have been easier. Nope.

What plastic instrument panel are you referring to?
I wish the side vents were that cheap. I now have a mismatched silver center against fake wood grain vents. I thought I might just buy new clean ones but they are $$$. Not sure how to get the adhesive plastiwood off without destroying the silver finish.

BTW, I will have extra parts when I'm fully buttoned up. I have an A/C amplifier, multi-display, and some connectors that I'll want to sell.
88650-60B80 A/C amp (Can be sold now)
83240-60222 case (Holding this one briefly until I verify mine works)

 

[OilHammer]

More updates that may be of interest to some:
The head unit world is changing....fast. I was dead set on getting a 200mm face unit, but most vendors are coming out with "floating" screens that allow for 9, 10, and 11" screens. The early ones had a fixed position (Alpine) but the new generation allows you to tilt on the fly. Many of these newer ones are single DIN, which should allow for far more wiring room.

Some new ones announced at this year's CES:
Alpine ILX-F411 (11" screen single din) I think the previous ILX-F259 9" size is a better fit. 11" and you would just give up on reading the upper display. I'm not sure the upper display is of much use beyond outside temp though.
Kenwood DMX1057XR (10" double din but unit depth not yet announced) This has a whopping 4 camera inputs but looks kind of bulky.
Pioneer DMH-WT7600NEX (9" screen single din)
Pioneer DMH-WT8600NEX (10" screen single din) This one has detailed manuals already on their site and the screen fits perfectly between the vents and displays top/bottom. It's a very slick looking package compared to the Kenwood but doesn't seem as feature rich.

I should also note that both Alpine and Kenwood offer very shallow double DIN units. Kenwood DMX125BT and Alpine ILX-W650. I think the trend is going there on the mechless units, which will open up even more options for us.

 

[kgrove]

It's official - insurance company is totaling the car and buying me out. I'd highly suggest somebody buy this and fix it up as it would make and outstanding project for somebody. It needs front and rear bumpers (may as well go ARB or some kind of aftermarket stuff), radiator, fan, fan clutch, both front quarter panels, hood, and some misc parts around those areas. The frame, suspension engine, drivetrain etc are all 100% ok and all the glass is fine and the airbags did not deploy. It would have a salvage title which will hurt resale value, but should be super reliable anyway. And here's the kicker...

116,000 miles, phoenix based car so ZERO rust, and the nav conversion with a full stereo upgrade (amp and all speakers replaced) already done. Really good condition... if you ignore the whole wreck thing.

The ink is still wet on the agreement and I don't have the salvage auction details yet, but I'll provide them if I can get them. If I can't, I think it will be going through the IAAI salvage auction in Phoenix - not sure of the date, but IAAI will probably take possession of the car early next week. I heard through the grapevine that IAAI had bid about $7500 for the carcass, so I assume the auction value would be higher than that. The body shop estimated $14K of repair work, but it felt like they had their thumb on the scale for that. If you're super interested, PM me and I can provide the full scope of work (incl photos) from the body shop. You'd have the option of either stripping the nav conversion parts out and re-selling at auction again or just fix up the entire car and have a low mileage, no rust beast but with a salvaged title.

I don't make a dime from one of you buying this, btw. I just hate the idea of an LC with the nav conversion already done going to a scrap heap.

To give you a rough idea of the damage, attached is a photo after the wreck with my wife and her friend taunting me after they wrecked my car. Bitches.

Quick update - IAAI finally posted my car to their website this morning, but they haven't posted photos, announced an auction date, etc. The IAAI stock number is 27552815 if you want to think about bidding on it. It's a 2007 with about 116K miles and most importantly - the only reason I'm posting in this thread - is it already had the full nav conversion completed. It was in an accident, but I think all the repairs were already done. This will probably be my last post in this thread other than possibly one brief post later to link to another thread if I create a special thread to give you guys more background info on this car. This might be a good opportunity for somebody struggling to find parts or not sure they want to bite off this project to instead just buy an LC that already had it done.

To be clear, I don't own this car any longer and don't profit in any way from it's resale. I'm posting this info because I know how rare this nav conversion is and I hate the idea that somebody could buy this car completely unaware how different this LC is from most, all while you guys are struggling to locate parts.

 

[jerryb]

we should all follow this vin, I think someone is going to either get hosed by a dealer, or a good deal for someone educated.

 

[kgrove]

we should all follow this vin, I think someone is going to either get hosed by a dealer, or a good deal for someone educated.

My guess - good deal for somebody educated. Dealers are unlikely to pay as much for the wrecked pieces as they will have no idea how valuable that center console is with the nav conversion.

I started another thread where I could post more general info - let you guys keep this thread more concentrated on nav conversions rather than go sideways talking about insurance companies, damaged radiators, and other exciting stuff.

For Sale - Potential good buy for somebody - 2007 w/ 116K miles needs body work

My wife wrecked my LC and I took a settlement from the insurance company, but the truck is now for sale. I get nothing from anyone buying this - I've already been bought out and have no connection to the sale - but I hate seeing it go to waste. Here is a link to the auction at IAAI. The IAA...

forum.ih8mud.com

Two ideas come to mind related with those interest in nav conversion but can't get the parts:
1) buy this from auction, swap the center console out with the parts from your existing LC, and then put it back through salvage auction again but with the old nav system. If you wanted to sell the wrecked LC, you'd either have to sell it off for parts or reverse engineer the nav conversion to reinstall your nav system in another car. Because of the wires you cut out of harnesses in doing the conversion, going backwards would mean you'd be re-attaching some wires back to their factory harnesses, which is possible but not easy
2) buy this from auction, do all the body repairs and make it yours, and sell your current LC. You'd be getting a low mileage car with the nav conversion done, but it would have a wreck on its CarFax history to ding its value.

 

[co101]

If anyone is still looking for 84014-60350 Board Sub-Assy, Printed Wire Integration.

You may want to try www.toyotapartsprime.com

I ordered on April 27th. It arrived today. Didn't really believe it until it was in my hands.

Direct link

 

[jerryb]

that's the best price out there. I can't believe you got one, that's great!

 

[CBeckFJ]

TOYOTA LANDCRUISER HEATER/AC CONTROLS 100 SERIES, 10/02-10/07 | eBay

TOYOTA LANDCRUISER 2009 CALIPER 70 SERIES, RIGHT FRONT. TOYOTA CAMRY CALIPER LEFT REAR, ACV40, 06/06-11/11. For a 12 Month Parts & Labour Warranty, the Labour cost is 20% of your required cover. TOYOTA RAV4 OVERFLOW BOTTLE XA40, PETROL, 02/13-11/18.

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Anyone ever tried installing one of these? Might be considering this instead of going the digital control route when the time comes.

 

[alethal]

Jerry, do you currently have any more Jerry The Man Harnesses or can I get on your waiting list?

I've been reading through the threads on my phone , gotta make a spreadsheet of what I need, 06 year model LX470 but manufacturing date 9/05. Sounds like I will use LC parts

 

[kgrove]

Quick question: Are there still parts shortages for this conversion, and if so, which years do the shortages apply to? I've got my eye on a couple used cars, but I'm trying to steer clear of versions where I can't source the parts to make it a modern stereo. I noticed somebody found at least a couple units of one of the difficult parts, but I don't have a handle on whether that was a freak find or if somebody started making a few more of the rarest parts.

 

[jerryb]

For sure the boards for post Jan 2007. But I would personally bypass the airbag check if I happened on one of those.
I'd take a 05/2005 to 12/2005 production first.
Second would be 1/2006 to the end.
Third, 2004
Last 2003.
People are still buying parts.
Im trying to buy parts to make a complete unit. But then someone asks and I end up selling them individually.
The only thing that throws a wrench into things is the AC amplifier.
Seems like parts trickle in. Just when you think they're gone someone posts that they got the right circuit board somewhere.
Costs have at least doubled though. I'd do it again no doubt, even at 2500. There's value in eliminating future problems that are a certainty regarding the stock center assembly. There are guys ordering parts here and there getting orders cancelled but eventually they seem to all get them.

 

[Njck22]

For anyone will to make slight compromises: wrecker in Aussie land has the control stack from an 04.

TOYOTA LANDCRUISER HEATER/AC CONTROLS 100 SERIES, CLIMATE CONTROL TYPE, 10/02-10 | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for TOYOTA LANDCRUISER HEATER/AC CONTROLS 100 SERIES, CLIMATE CONTROL TYPE, 10/02-10 at the best online prices at eBay!

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Your gonna wanna call them and verify the ac amplifier is a 60821 for late model 100s but its a late model 04 so I’m betting it is. have them ship ac controls, and the clock, maybe even the iso fascia is they’ll let it go cheap and order the spacers which are like 10$. So 650$ for the controls plus 200$ for the clock, another 20 for the fascia, and a liberal 150$ for shipping, and you can do the conversion for ~1000AUD. If you order the correctly shaped lower 4 buttons then you can get a perfect fit and the only compromise is you heat knob is on the right 6 inches

 

[CBeckFJ]

@jerryb since your our in house 100 electrical specialist, are there any variations between a '99 dash wiring harness and an '05? Would they be plug and play with each other?

 

[OilHammer]

For sure the boards for post Jan 2007. But I would personally bypass the airbag check if I happened on one of those.
I'd take a 05/2005 to 12/2005 production first.
Second would be 1/2006 to the end.
Third, 2004
Last 2003.
People are still buying parts.
Im trying to buy parts to make a complete unit. But then someone asks and I end up selling them individually.
The only thing that throws a wrench into things is the AC amplifier.
Seems like parts trickle in. Just when you think they're gone someone posts that they got the right circuit board somewhere.
Costs have at least doubled though. I'd do it again no doubt, even at 2500. There's value in eliminating future problems that are a certainty regarding the stock center assembly. There are guys ordering parts here and there getting orders cancelled but eventually they seem to all get them.

And I still have my mis-ordered parts that can go so I can afford to buy a stereo to finally put in!

88650-60B80 A/C amp (Supposedly works for 2005-2007. May work on earlier ones, I don't know never tried it)
83240-60222 case assembly accessory (This is the computer display that shows temp, mileage, time, etc)
M9 connector
A26 connector (I think need to check)
I also have connectors to make an adapter for an 03.